Louis Vuitton’s Virgil Abloh plays with menswear codes for fall 20

Virgil Abloh has experimented with the codes of menswear for his latest Louis Vuitton line.The French luxury label’s head menswear designer, who took some time off to focus on his health in late 2019, returned to the spotlight on Thursday to unveil his…

Virgil Abloh has experimented with the codes of menswear for his latest Louis Vuitton line.

The French luxury label’s head menswear designer, who took some time off to focus on his health in late 2019, returned to the spotlight on Thursday to unveil his fall/winter 2020 collection at the Jardin des Tuileries as part of Paris Fashion Week: Men’s.

The venue had a surrealist cloudscape installed for the backdrop, while the rest of the set was decorated with oversized sewing tools, such as fabric scissors and cotton thread.

Describing the range as an “ode to the freedom of thought,” Abloh opted away from the streetwear influences of his previous collections and instead focused on the suit, offering up sharply tailored versions as well as ensembles with deconstructed elements.

“By studying the evolving anthropology of the suit, Louis Vuitton’s artistic director twists and turns traditional codes through a variety of techniques: shirts and ties are folded and wrapped around the body then pressed into a single shirt, Broderie Anglaise is magnified and rendered in suiting material,” a Louis Vuitton representative explained. “Within Abloh’s ongoing exploration of the constraints of menswear, this collection sees tailoring and suiting depart from a corporate comfort zone to be re-appropriated and embraced.”

The show opened with a model wearing a beige suit, white shirt, black Chelsea boots and carrying a tan leather tote, with a parade of similar outfits following. Abloh also played with accessories, including belts, tie clips, suspenders and gloves, with highlights including a grey suit paired with a hot pink bucket hat and a shirt manufactured with interwoven pieces of fabric. To conclude, the fashion star ramped up the surrealist elements of the procession, introducing a line of suits made from blue and white material that resembled clouds. The outfits were accessorised with metallic face masks and reflective sunglasses.

Paris Fashion Week: Men’s continues on Friday with shows from Lemaire and Zadig & Voltaire.

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