Christian Dior devotes fall 18 collection to feminist themes

Christian Dior paid homage to feminist movements in its latest fashion collection.Creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri unveiled her fall/winter 2018-2019 collection at the Musee Rodin on Tuesday afternoon (27Feb18), showing as part of Paris Fashion We…

Christian Dior paid homage to feminist movements in its latest fashion collection.

Creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri unveiled her fall/winter 2018-2019 collection at the Musee Rodin on Tuesday afternoon (27Feb18), showing as part of Paris Fashion Week.

In the show notes, label representatives explained that Chiuri wanted to celebrate youthquakers, the 1960s movement that challenged conventions of the time, as well as second-wave feminism and the events of 1968.

“Anniversaries can be triggers for exceptional memories. Remembering is also about reinventing and imagining. Fifty years after the urgency and creativity that the year 1968 bought, this is an opportunity for Maria Grazia Chiuri to revive an era when the rules of fashion were turned on their head,” they said. “Indeed, thanks to this emulation which stimulated the emergence of new ideas, creativity for creativity’s sake, the cut-up technique and travel as means of discovering others but also oneself, youth occupies a place at the centre of the scene.”

Models winded through guests sat on benches, including Cara Delevingne, in a room entirely covered with posters containing feminist iconography, magazine imagery, and the slogans, “I am a woman” and “Women’s rights are human rights”.

The show opened with a model sporting a purple and red tartan skirt and jacket, along with leather boots and a black cap. A procession of similar outfits followed, with the line-up including kilts in different lengths embroidered with the label’s branding and matched with rocker-inspired T-shirts, pleated skirts with tartan and organza panels, and splashes of silver fabrics.

Knitwear was a large element of the collection, with sweaters featuring the peace symbol, as were patchwork fabrics, which were used in blazers, coats, and shirts.

Chiuri also injected a rock chic vibe into several looks, pairing fluffy coats with minidresses, and had all models wear glasses made from yellow, orange and red plastic.

She matched unexpected fabrics together as well, such as point d’esprit on masculine jackets and small coats, and used woollen embroideries on organza dresses, with all items styled to counterbalance the idea of a uniform.

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Rebecca Minkoff drops first swimwear collection

Rebecca Minkoff has launched her very first swimwear line.The American designer dropped the collection on Monday (26Feb18), with pieces available to buy exclusively in her New York, Los Angeles, Chicago and San Francisco stores, as well as online via h…

Rebecca Minkoff has launched her very first swimwear line.

The American designer dropped the collection on Monday (26Feb18), with pieces available to buy exclusively in her New York, Los Angeles, Chicago and San Francisco stores, as well as online via her brand’s website.

Though the label is best known for accessible luxury handbags, accessories, footwear and apparel, Minkoff admitted she has considered expanding her line for several years.

“Swim is a category I have been wanting to introduce for some time, and creating this collection has been almost two years in the making,” she shared with WWD. “I love everything about offering my on-the-go girl a gorgeous piece of swim that evokes a free-spirited style, while remaining true to our high-quality standards — one she can always count on each time she needs a new suit for her upcoming travels. It’s all about living life by her own rules and this collection evokes all of that and more.”

All the garments have been manufactured in L.A. using Italian fabrics, and the spring collection is an incredibly versatile 15-piece collection, consisting of items that can be mixed, matched and reversed. Displaying a variety of solid colours and prints, the bottoms also offer a range of coverage options such as teeny, moderate and full.

While top prices range from $70 to $110 (£50 to £78), bottoms are $60 to $75 (£43 to £53) and one-pieces retail from $135 to $145 (£96 to £103).

Minkoff’s latest venture follows her decision to swerve this year’s New York Fashion Week and instead debut her latest collection through a new women’s empowerment platform.

“At the end of the day, our brand is here to inspire women to lead a more fearless life. If they come away from an experience being inspired to take the next step in their career or personal life, that’s really something that’s important to me,” insisted the fashion mogul, who recently gave birth to her third child Nico Valentine (10Feb18).

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Claudia Schiffer: ‘It takes time to become an icon’

Claudia Schiffer has opened up about the difference between becoming a celebrity and an icon.The German supermodel rose to fame in the early 1990s alongside Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, and Elle Macpherson, and over the years, has appeared in ca…

Claudia Schiffer has opened up about the difference between becoming a celebrity and an icon.

The German supermodel rose to fame in the early 1990s alongside Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, and Elle Macpherson, and over the years, has appeared in campaigns for Chanel, Balmain, Bulgari, Michael Kors and Prada.

Claudia continues to be one of the most recognisable names in the business, and is certain there is more to achieving icon status than simply being in the public eye.

“When defining the word icon, the test of time is key. You can’t be iconic in the moment,” she wrote in an article for CNN Style. “It is also a very different concept to fame and celebrity, which can be short-lived. Time allows you to look back and recognise the lasting impact of an image, a person or a movement.”

Claudia went on to share that she was very insecure in herself when she first started modelling. But by embracing a character, she was able to adopt a confident persona on photoshoots.

“Until my first magazine cover shoot, I thought at any moment someone would tell me it was all over. But I think by proving to myself that I could succeed in something that didn’t marry with my instinctive nature, I developed a much deeper resilience and sense of self-belief,” the 47-year-old shared.

Claudia noted that she viewed designer Gianni Versace, who was tragically murdered in 1997, as an icon due to his original designs and catwalk spectacles. While not every show is iconic, the blonde beauty admitted that she was especially proud to be involved in Donatella Versace’s spring/summer 2018 show held during Milan Fashion Week last September (17), where she reunited with Naomi Campbell, Cindy Crawford, Helena Christensen and Carla Bruni for the final walk in honour of Gianni.

“It was a powerful experience that evoked an outpouring of emotion. In this case, I will make an exception; the moment itself was iconic,” she added.

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Donatella Versace on her new collection: ‘It’s for every woman’

Donatella Versace’s latest collection is aimed at all women.The Versace head showed off her latest designs at Milan Fashion Week on Friday (23Feb18), with the runway full of bold colours and prints, as well as the fashion house’s signature gold chain d…

Donatella Versace’s latest collection is aimed at all women.

The Versace head showed off her latest designs at Milan Fashion Week on Friday (23Feb18), with the runway full of bold colours and prints, as well as the fashion house’s signature gold chain detailing.

Talking about the fall 18 line, Donatella told Vogue in a video: “(It’s) a continuation of last year. What (it) represents is the family of Versace. They are different characters. There is a punkish one, there is a more sophisticated one, the mystery woman, and the young, young school girl with sneakers.

“There is not one for this collection, it’s a lot of woman coming together and be courageous and be strong (sic).”

To show off the bold designs, Donatella hired an army of strong models to walk for her. Gigi Hadid, Kaia Gerber, Anja Rubik, Edie Campbell, Binx Walton and Natalia Vodianova were among those strutting their stuff.

Among the collection were pieces that seemed to be a nod to ’90s icon Cher Horowitz, from cult teen movie Clueless. Her iconic yellow chequered skirt suit was re-imagined for the millennial market, with Donatella creating multiple skirt suits, sweaters, jackets and trousers in purple, yellow, green and blue chequered and plaid prints.

During the behind-the-scenes shoot for Vogue, some of the models summed up what they loved about Versace in one sentence.

“She’s not afraid to take chances,” Anja smiled, while Teddy Quinlivan added: “Strength, empowerment, femininity.”

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Gigi Hadid ‘close to tears’ showing final Tommy Hilfiger collection

Gigi Hadid was close to tears as she walked in her final TommyxGigi show during Milan Fashion Week on Sunday (25Feb18).The in-demand model has been working with style stalwart Tommy Hilfiger since 2016, and on Sunday the design duo showcased their four…

Gigi Hadid was close to tears as she walked in her final TommyxGigi show during Milan Fashion Week on Sunday (25Feb18).

The in-demand model has been working with style stalwart Tommy Hilfiger since 2016, and on Sunday the design duo showcased their fourth and final collection.

Inspired by Tommy’s love for motorsports, the models, including Gigi, rocked sporty ensembles as they strutted their stuff.

“I walked into Tommy’s dressing room this morning, and we both had to kind of not talk about it, because you’d start tearing up,” Gigi said before the show, reports Cosmopolitan.

Titled Drive, the show was a homage to Tommy’s passion for racing cars, and also a nod to his partnership with Formula One team Mercedes-AMG Petronas Motorsport.

Gigi, who opened and closed the show, was joined on the runway by her sister Bella, Winnie Harlow, Hailey Baldwin and Joan Smalls.

And it wasn’t just girls that were involved, but menswear was also displayed too, with Jeremy Meeks and Lucky Blue Smith among the male models.

The front row was just as starry as the model line-up, and included Ruby Rose, Olivia Palermo and real-life F1 star Lewis Hamilton, who all took in the fall 2018 collection, which was filled with sporty crop tops, colour-block leather garments and chequered prints, reminiscent of racing flags.

Dolce & Gabbana also showed in Milan on Sunday, where designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana stuck to the opulent feminine glamour they’re known for.

Intent on chasing the millennial market, the Dolce & Gabbana show opened using drones, with a procession of eight aerial vehicles appearing, each carrying a handbag.

Baroque, velvet and sumptuous embroidery were the order of the day, with each model wearing heavily patterned outfits, teamed with over the top accessories.

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Richard Quinn sworn to secrecy over Queen Elizabeth II’s appearance at LFW

Richard Quinn’s team were convinced queen of the catwalk Kate Moss was going to be guest of honour at his London Fashion Week show, not Britain’s actual Queen.Queen Elizabeth II attended Quinn’s fall/winter 18 presentation last week (ends25Feb18), her …

Richard Quinn’s team were convinced queen of the catwalk Kate Moss was going to be guest of honour at his London Fashion Week show, not Britain’s actual Queen.

Queen Elizabeth II attended Quinn’s fall/winter 18 presentation last week (ends25Feb18), her first-ever Fashion Week show, where she sat next to American Vogue editor Anna Wintour.

She was there to present the budding designer with the inaugural Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design, but Quinn was sworn to secrecy before the show.

“(It was) surreal,” he grinned to The Telegraph. “I had known for weeks, but had to keep it a complete secret, so more than anything it was funny hearing people trying to guess what was going on when all I could tell them was: ‘It’s something big.’

“My team were convinced that Kate Moss was coming, and they were telling me that I was making too big a deal out of it. If only they’d known. Once models had walked out, they kept coming backstage screaming: ‘It’s the f**king Queen out there!'”

Adwoa Aboah and Jean Campbell were among the models who walked in the show.

The Queen was in stylish form as she took in the new season trends, wearing a duck egg blue tweed dress and matching jacket with Swarovski crystals, designed by her longtime dressmaker Angela Kelly.

Revealing that the British royal, who is known for her love of colour blocking, was “so positive and kind”, Quinn added that The Queen’s favourite looks were “the colours and florals”.

And opening about Wintour also being in the audience, Quinn said his parents weren’t in the least bit fazed when they met the fashion heavyweight.

“Anna came to backstage before the show and told them how refreshing she found my clothes,” he recalled. “But the funniest bit was when she came up to my parents and introduced herself afterwards. My dad had no idea who she was. She said how nice it was to meet them, so it felt almost like parents’ evening at school.”

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Fendi showcases patent trenchcoats in fall 2018 collection

Fendi debuted a ladylike fall 2018 collection during the Italian brand’s Milan Fashion Week show.The latest line, which was showcased on Thursday (22Feb18) included neat boxy-shouldered dresses and coats which creative director Silvia Venturi Fendi des…

Fendi debuted a ladylike fall 2018 collection during the Italian brand’s Milan Fashion Week show.

The latest line, which was showcased on Thursday (22Feb18) included neat boxy-shouldered dresses and coats which creative director Silvia Venturi Fendi described as “a romantic uniform for a strong and powerful woman of today”.

The label also featured its iconic double F beige-brown logo on everything from tights, to fur sweatshirts and baguette bags. Patent, belted trench coats were another key feature of the collection, as well as loose tweed pencil skirts with matching knee-high boots.

The show was closed by rising star Adwoa Aboah who wore a dramatic black, velvet turtleneck cape, while Bella Hadid modelled a silky cream dress and her sister Gigi donned a ladylike collared grey and white A-line dress paired with a yellow and handbag and white patent boots.

Meanwhile, Prada’s fall 2018 collection, which also showed on Thursday, was all about contrast as the fashion house displayed neon garments against an industrial background.

Head designer Miuccia Prada flaunted industrial chic during the Milan runway show by illuminating neutral pieces with flashes of colour, featured on items such as a sheer black dress scattered with orange beading and a khaki coat trailed by a an electric orange tulle bow. The show also included vibrant bucket hats in green, blue, orange and pink, which were paired with neon eyewear and high-necked jackets, while classic pieces including tweed pleated midi-skirts were combined with sturdier more practical shoes like rubber boots and elastic-tied heels, while also bringing back the flame wedges previously showcased in spring 2012.

The brand made the most of its association with iconic nylon material, which made a return on the catwalk appearing on items including outerwear and bags, while chiffon was another recurring material throughout the collection.

Milan Fashion Week continues on Friday with shows from Roberto Cavalli and Versace.

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Stella McCartney is on the cusp of breaking with Kering – report

Stella McCartney is reportedly on the verge of breaking with French luxury group Kering.The British fashion house has been aligned with the organisation for the past 17 years, but according to a source, Kering is selling its 50 per cent share of Stella…

Stella McCartney is reportedly on the verge of breaking with French luxury group Kering.

The British fashion house has been aligned with the organisation for the past 17 years, but according to a source, Kering is selling its 50 per cent share of Stella McCartney back to the brand.

According to the insider, who divulged all to Business of Fashion, the announcement was supposed to have been made in January (18) and the label is currently preparing a booklet outlining the details of the separation to answer outstanding questions and ease employee concerns.

The source also shared that Kering’s brands, which include Gucci, Yves Saint Laurent and Alexander McQueen, will be forbidden from hiring Stella McCartney employees during the transition process, which could take as long as two years.

Both parties have issued a joint statement assuring the public that nothing has been confirmed.

“Kering and Ms Stella McCartney have been operating and growing the Stella McCartney brand since 2001 as a 50/50 joint venture. As already stated, as it is customary between stakeholders, there are regular discussions about the future of the partnership,” the two brands said. “Any significant change to the current relationship would be made public at the appropriate time. Any piece of information circulating to this respect can only be considered as speculation.”

Designer McCartney has also been alleged to have sought the help of her feather, The Beatles legend Paul McCartney, who has apparently had a role in financing the buy-back from Kering, though a spokesperson for the 46-year-old has insisted that the singer had never been involved in her business.

While Kering and Stella McCartney acknowledge they have spoken about the possibility of separation on previous occasions, reasons for their reported decision to split have not yet been revealed.

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Chinese investment fund takes controlling stake in Lanvin

Chinese investment company Fosun is taking control of Lanvin.The French luxury fashion house was founded by Jeanne Lanvin in 1889 and acquired by Taiwanese media magnate Shaw-Lan Wang in 2001, with the businesswoman having a 75 per cent stake. Lanvin …

Chinese investment company Fosun is taking control of Lanvin.

The French luxury fashion house was founded by Jeanne Lanvin in 1889 and acquired by Taiwanese media magnate Shaw-Lan Wang in 2001, with the businesswoman having a 75 per cent stake.

Lanvin has been in turmoil since the shock exit of head designer Alber Elbaz in late 2015, with it reported in November (17) that Wang was planning to push more money into the business to help reposition the brand, though that didn’t happen, and Fosun, which owns France’s Club Med, Britain’s Thomas Cook Group, and clothing label St. John, has now snapped up the label.

“Fosun’s understanding of the brand and strong track record in the European and global market, including their successful partnership and transformational strategies with Club Med, Tom Tailor and many others, make us believe that Fosun is the right long-term strategic partner to team up with,” said Lanvin’s managing director Nicolas Druz in a statement.

Earlier this month, it was reported that executives at Fosun and Mayhoola, the investment firm run by the Qatari royal family which oversees companies such as Pal Zileri, Balmain and Valentino, were interested in taking over Lanvin.

However, Fosun has won out, and according to Reuters, the group will invest around $123 million (£88 million /100 million euros) in the business, with Wang and Swiss investor Ralph Bartel retaining minority stakes.

“As China becomes the main growth driver of the global luxury market, we are confident that Fosun can bring great incremental value to Lanvin with our global resources and expertise, while being absolutely committed to Lanvin’s high luxury positioning and its exceptional quality of products manufactured in France and Italy,” added Joann Cheng, vice chief financial officer of Fosun International.

Elbaz’s successors include Bouchra Jarrar and Olivier Lapidus, who joined the label last July and presented his first collection during Paris Fashion Week in September.

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Tommy Hilfiger and Gigi Hadid take TommyNow Drive show to Milan

Tommy Hilfiger’s TommyNow Drive fashion show will close Milan Fashion Week.The American designer is fusing fashion with his love of motorsports in a runway extravaganza which will be held at the Milano Congressi in front of 2,000 guests. Tommy will sho…

Tommy Hilfiger’s TommyNow Drive fashion show will close Milan Fashion Week.

The American designer is fusing fashion with his love of motorsports in a runway extravaganza which will be held at the Milano Congressi in front of 2,000 guests.

Tommy will show the men’s and women’s Hilfiger collection as well as the fourth TommyxGigi capsule created with the American designer’s muse and collaborator Gigi Hadid.

Inspired by the 66-year-old designer’s passion for racing, TommyNow Drive is his first event following the brand’s multiyear partnership with Formula One World Champion Mercedes-AMG Petronas Motorsport.

Tommy, who has staged previous TommyNow shows in New York and Los Angeles, told WWD the show will continue the brand’s “innovative approach to the runway with new interactive elements that engage fans and immerse them in the world of Formula One”.

“This season’s set brings the runway and racetrack together. We’re fusing fashion and motor racing with exciting, innovative activations for an experiential event that will bring our consumer closer to the show.” he added.

The show will include immersive activations including the Bose Virtual Race Garage featuring QuietComfort 35 II Noise-Canceling Wireless Headphones, the F1 Race Simulator and F1 Pitstop Challenge, both courtesy of Mercedes-AMG Petronas Motorsport.

As with previous TommyNow shows, all runway looks will be immediately available in more than 70 countries, including the brand’s global wholesale network and own retail channels, Tommy.com, social media content, shoppable live-stream and chatbots.

Meanwhile his favourite collaborator Gigi, 22, has incorporated elements of Formula One into her fourth TommyxGigi collection and admits the sport inspired her to create garments for a “strong modern Tommy Girl”.

“Formula One is such an exciting sport, the atmosphere is electric at each race,” she smiled. “There is so much to be inspired by. I love the bold logos, racing stripes and athletic colourblocking on the track and uniforms.

“Tommy has always had a love for motorsports and the collection reflects that. We’ve combined Tommy’s passion for the sport with my personal twist on athleisure style. We were inspired by the strong, confident and modern ‘Tommy Girl’.”

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