Anthony Vaccarello: ‘I’m just doing what I want’

Anthony Vaccarello is no slave to trends when it comes to designing clothes.The Italian-Belgian designer was appointed as creative director at Saint Laurent in 2016, succeeding Hedi Slimane in the prestigious gig. He descended upon New Jersey’s Libert…

Anthony Vaccarello is no slave to trends when it comes to designing clothes.

The Italian-Belgian designer was appointed as creative director at Saint Laurent in 2016, succeeding Hedi Slimane in the prestigious gig.

He descended upon New Jersey’s Liberty Park on Wednesday night (06Jun18) to present his spring 2019 menswear collection which, according to Vogue U.S., was based on “the idea of the icons of New York in the ’70s.” And following the show, Vaccarello insisted that he always stays true to his own vision.

“I’m not going to break something that I would not break for myself,” the designer told reporters backstage after the show. “I’m just doing what I want.”

All the models sported skinny black trousers during the show, except for one pair of metallic silver pants, while finely detailed embroidery was woven into crisp shirts and bomber jackets.

The ’70s motif was evident in the flamboyant prints and materials displayed in pieces like a sheer unbuttoned leopard-print shirt and a belted lace-up leather jacket.

Dark fedora hats were a recurrent accessory, as well as loose scarves and statement belts, while shoes ranged from printed baseball sneakers to snakeskin-look boots.

Though the collection was part of Vaccarello’s first fully-fledged men’s show, the fashion star decided to also recruit female models to showcase his latest line.

The women were styled in pieces such as an embellished oversized blazer, a glamorous coat and a skin-tight lace shirt.

At the end of the presentation, the men on the catwalk sported bare top halves which were sprayed with silver metallic body paint. Tasselled scarves and chunky jewellery added detail to the jet-black PVC trousers each model paraded as the show reached its conclusion.

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Fashion stars pay tribute to Donatella Versace ahead of CFDA honour

Some of the biggest names in fashion have shared their favourite Donatella Versace memories ahead of Monday night’s (04Jun18) CFDA Fashion Awards.Donatella will be picking up the International Award at the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s annu…

Some of the biggest names in fashion have shared their favourite Donatella Versace memories ahead of Monday night’s (04Jun18) CFDA Fashion Awards.

Donatella will be picking up the International Award at the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s annual event, and to celebrate, Vogue has asked some of the people closest to her to share personal anecdotes.

Claudia Schiffer, Tom Ford, Donna Karan, Helena Christensen and former Versus Versace designer Anthony Vaccarello are among those to recount stories.

“At Gianni’s tribute show last year, Donatella put her arm around me as we started walking down the runway,” model Claudia started. “I could literally feel her energy lighting up the room, full of hundreds of people. It was so exciting to share that magical moment with her. The crazy excitement continued backstage and long into the night. Donatella is extraordinarily instinctive at creating iconic moments and fashion.”

Others praised the 63-year-old’s charitable nature, her warmth and her sense of humour.

Fellow designer Tom recalled a time the blonde style star gave him and his now-husband Richard Buckley a tour of her New York home.

“(She) decided to show us (her brother) Santo’s bedroom. She opened the door, turned on the lights, and started showing us around,” he remembered. “I looked over and there was Santo in the bed. She just said, ‘Oh it’s fine,’ and kept pointing out things in the room in that incredible voice and accent of hers. Of course, Richard and I were a little embarrassed, but could not help starting to laugh nervously as there was poor Santo lying there in his bed while we were looking at the furniture around him. I think Santo was awake but he kept his eyes closed. It was hysterical. Very Donatella.”

The 2018 CFDA Fashion Awards take place at Brooklyn Museum in New York.

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Proenza Schouler set to release limited-edition beauty line

Proenza Schouler is gearing up to unveil a limited-edition beauty line.The New York-based womenswear and accessories brand was founded in 2002 by Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, with the designers unveiling a “sister label” last year (17). McCol…

Proenza Schouler is gearing up to unveil a limited-edition beauty line.

The New York-based womenswear and accessories brand was founded in 2002 by Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, with the designers unveiling a “sister label” last year (17).

McCollough and Hernandez are now about to branch out into the cosmetics world, as they have announced that they are partnering with French beauty giant Lancome on a new range.

“Lancome has always represented the epitome of luxury beauty products, so it is like a dream come true to be able to collaborate with such an iconic and historic brand,” the designers said in a statement, according to WWD.

It is not yet known what products the line will contain. However, McCollough and Hernandez did share that they took inspiration from the bold use of colour in the artworks of painters Carmen Herrera and Ellsworth Kelly.

Francoise Lehmann, general manager of Lancome International, explained that she was delighted to be working with the designers on the collection and appreciated their distinctive viewpoint.

“The idea of empowerment is at the heart of their values, just as it has always been at the heart of the Lancome philosophy,” she said.

McCollough and Hernandez released their debut perfume, named Arizona, in February. The scent was developed by the perfume experts at L’Oreal, the parent company of Lancome, with the pair claiming the perfume encapsulates the “body of work of Proenza Schouler”.

Previously, Lancome has teamed with fashion names including Sonia Rykiel, Alber Elbaz, Olympia Le-Tan, Jacquemus and Anthony Vaccarello on make-up collections.

Proenza Schouler’s beauty collection is due to hit shelves in July.

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Saint Laurent dishes up rock chic for fall 18

Saint Laurent has offered up a line rock star-inspired looks for its fall/winter 2018 collection.Creative director Anthony Vaccarello unveiled his latest range for the French luxury brand as part of Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday night (27Feb18), with t…

Saint Laurent has offered up a line rock star-inspired looks for its fall/winter 2018 collection.

Creative director Anthony Vaccarello unveiled his latest range for the French luxury brand as part of Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday night (27Feb18), with the likes of Kate Moss, Rosie Huntington-Whiteley, Charlotte Gainsbourg, Zoe Kravitz and U.S. editor-in-chief Anna Wintour all flocking to the front row.

The presentation kicked off with fashion darling Kaia Gerber, the daughter of Cindy Crawford, strutting her stuff in a pair of black leather shorts, a floral print top and a cropped jacket, with the ensemble accessorised with ankle boots and a wide-brimmed hat.

A procession of edgy ensembles followed, with one model wearing a sheer top under a bedazzled blazer, cropped trousers, platform boots, and a scarf, while another sported a black lace minidress with plunging neckline that was accessorised with boots and silver hoop earrings.

Many looks were matched with wide belts with a silver diamond shape placed at the front, and a shiny dark purple leopard print fabric appeared on shirts and scarves.

Skinny black leather trousers, which wouldn’t be out of place in Mick Jagger’s wardrobe, featured throughout, as did oversized black faux fur coats.

Highlights of the collection included a black leather jumpsuit which was matched with a silver blazer with black leather pockets and lapels, as well as a black dress with silver studs with deep neckline and wide shoulders, an ’80s-inspired dress made from black and silver fabric with zebra print and a strapless black minidress with piece of brown fur draped across the neckline that was matched with a pair of high heels with eye-catching feather detailing.

The presentation concluded with a line-up of short dresses featuring red, purple and blue floral prints, with designs having either one-shoulder or Vaccarello’s favoured plunging necklines.

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Anja Rubik’s 2012 Met Gala dress has pride of place in her closet

Anja Rubik kept the white Anthony Vaccarello dress she wore to the Met Gala in 2012, because she has a “sentimental” connection to it.The 34-year-old Polish model hit headlines when she arrived at the fashion event wearing the daring gown, which featur…

Anja Rubik kept the white Anthony Vaccarello dress she wore to the Met Gala in 2012, because she has a “sentimental” connection to it.

The 34-year-old Polish model hit headlines when she arrived at the fashion event wearing the daring gown, which featured a split so high it showed off her protruding hip bone. It was one of the outfits that really put Anja on the map, and in a new interview with W magazine, she admitted that six years later, it still has pride of place in her closet.

Asked to name the most prized possession in her wardrobe, Anja replied: “The white dress I wore to the Met Gala in 2012 designed by Anthony Vaccarello. It’s a one of a kind; he was asked to replicate it many times but always refused. It’s also a very sentimental piece, because it was at the beginning of my friendship with Anthony, and the first dress I asked him to make for me.”

Since then, Anja’s relationship with Yves Saint Laurent creative director Vaccarello has flourished. She also opted for a piece from the designer for the Met Gala the following year, and cites the red ensemble as her favourite ever red carpet look.

Questioned about her most beloved red carpet look and the reasons why it’s her favourite, Anja responded: “Anthony Vaccarello’s red leather dress that I wore to the Met Gala in 2013; the theme of the gala was punk, so I decided to go a bit glam punk. Also the black short Saint Laurent dress I wore in Cannes on the red carpet last year. Both chic but with some wild element.”

Anja hopes her daring sense of style will help make her into something of a fashion icon herself. But in the meantime, she has a wide array of stylish women to look to for wardrobe inspiration.

“In general, I appreciate women with a strong sense of self and individuality. PJ Harvey, Patti Smith, Debbie Harry, Jane Birkin…” she listed while naming her ultimate style icons.

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