Lanvin channels retro glamour for fall 20 collection

Lanvin has gone for full-on retro glamour for its fall/winter 2020 collection.Creative director Bruno Sialelli, who was appointed to helm the French house in January 2019, presented his third line at La Galerie des Gobelins as part of Paris Fashion Wee…

Lanvin has gone for full-on retro glamour for its fall/winter 2020 collection.

Creative director Bruno Sialelli, who was appointed to helm the French house in January 2019, presented his third line at La Galerie des Gobelins as part of Paris Fashion Week on Wednesday, with the show attracting celebrities such as Isabelle Huppert, Yolanda Hadid, Tyga, Teyana Taylor, Louis Vuitton menswear designer Virgil Abloh, and British Vogue editor-in-chief Edward Enninful.

Regarding his inspiration for the line, Sialelli looked through the archives of label founder Jeanne Lanvin and contemplated the peak of the couture brand during its 1920s heyday.

To begin, a model walked the runway in a burgundy leather wing coat with matching boots and teal leather gloves. A number of similar silhouettes followed, all accessorised with either gold bracelets, gloves, and calf-length boots.

Coats were a big focus, with Sialelli offering up leather, check, and belted wool versions with oversized shoulder detailing, with Bella Hadid stepping out in a luxurious white number with gold buttons and fluffy collar.

“LANVIN!!! My dream coat, music, show … thank you to my dears,” the model captioned a snap on Instagram following the spectacle.

Elsewhere, the designer included long printed dresses, sheer black outfits with lace trim, knitwear separates and chic suiting, with the choice of beige and mint green fabric for the two-pieces referencing the signature pastel hues of the house.

To conclude, Sialelli unveiled a range of flapper-esque dresses, with Adut Akech in a black and silver beaded ensemble and Gigi Hadid sporting a shorter style alongside a navy coat and red gloves.

“Kicked off Paris closing the beautiful @lanvinofficial show yesterday. Congrats & thank you @brunosialelli,” she posted.

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Bruno Sialelli unveils debut Lanvin line at PFW

On Wednesday (27Feb19) morning, Bruno Sialelli ushered in a fresh era at Lanvin at Paris Fashion Week.The designer showed off his debut collection for the troubled brand, after joining Lanvin in January from his post at Loewe. Showing off his artistic …

On Wednesday (27Feb19) morning, Bruno Sialelli ushered in a fresh era at Lanvin at Paris Fashion Week.

The designer showed off his debut collection for the troubled brand, after joining Lanvin in January from his post at Loewe.

Showing off his artistic flair with cute cartoon drawings, pencil portraits and fox motifs, Sialelli brought the wow factor back to the brand – helped by the inclusion of superstar models Gigi Hadid and Kaia Gerber.

Feminine silhouettes worked well alongside chunky knits and sheer fabrics, with a romantic elegance seen across the entire Fall/Winter 19 collection.

Stand out moments in the co-ed show included knitted corset detailing on a butter yellow trouser suit, a peach velvet men’s suit with a daisy drawing printed onto the front, and swishy scarf material seen on oversized shirts, dresses and skirts.

Ninety minutes later, Mugler showed in the City of Lights.

Structured and sexy tailoring, funky leather and sexy high-shine thigh-high booties made their way down the catwalk.

The modest collection was a world away from the headline-grabbing vintage Thierry Mugler garment Kim Kardashian recently squeezed into. Skin was covered in a patchwork prints, including animal, marbled monochrome and psychedelic swirls.

Jackets were nipped in at the waist, with a white blazer featuring slightly too long sleeves, and a black version adding an extra dimension with a ruffled peplum.

Later on Wednesday, Rochas, Lemaire, and Kenzo will take centre stage.

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Bruno Sialelli named Lanvin’s new creative director

Bruno Sialelli has been appointed as Lanvin’s new creative director.The French fashion house has been in a state of flux since the departure of long-serving creative director Alber Elbaz in late 2015, with Lucas Ossendrijver, Bouchra Jarrar, and Olivie…

Bruno Sialelli has been appointed as Lanvin’s new creative director.

The French fashion house has been in a state of flux since the departure of long-serving creative director Alber Elbaz in late 2015, with Lucas Ossendrijver, Bouchra Jarrar, and Olivier Lapidus, among the names who’ve held the post of head designer for brief stints.

But executives for Lanvin, which is now owned by Fosun Fashion Group, announced on Monday (21Jan19) that Sialelli will be taking over the artistic direction of the label.

“I am delighted and honoured to join Lanvin, a house founded by a visionary woman who among the first French couturiers dared to offer a global universe with a very wide field of expression,” he said in a statement. “Bringing emotions through compelling stories and defining a modern attitude are going to be exciting challenges in continuing this legacy.”

A relative unknown in the fashion world, Sialelli most recently acted as director of menswear design at Spanish heritage brand Loewe.

Previously, he gained extensive experience as pre-collection womenswear designer at Balenciaga, working under both Nicolas Ghesquiere and Alexander Wang, before becoming senior womenswear designer at Acne Studios, and then at Paco Rabanne.

Regarding Sialelli’s appointment, Lanvin’s chief executive officer Jean-Philippe Hecquet explained that he was confident the rising star would be able to introduce his own flair to upcoming collections whilst also remaining respectful of the house’s “iconic” codes, as established by company founder Jeanne Lanvin.

“We’re thrilled to welcome Bruno as the new creative director of Lanvin,” commented Hecquet. “His singular and very personal vision, his audacity, his culture, his energy and ability to build a strong creative team definitely convinced us. I can’t wait to discover Bruno’s first collections which will fully bring back to life this beautiful and unique fashion house, and once again inspire a passion among our customers.”

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Lucas Ossendrijver exiting Lanvin – report

Lucas Ossendrijver is reportedly leaving Lanvin after nearly 13 years at the brand.Editors at WWD report that the Dutch designer will bow out after presenting the pre-collection to buyers at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris. When contacted, the head of men…

Lucas Ossendrijver is reportedly leaving Lanvin after nearly 13 years at the brand.

Editors at WWD report that the Dutch designer will bow out after presenting the pre-collection to buyers at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris.

When contacted, the head of menswear gave nothing away, stating he was still at the house would make “no further comment for the moment”.

A source told WWD the label is expected to pull out from the runway calendar for the upcoming Paris Fashion Week: Men’s in January.

It marks the latest shake-up at the luxury French fashion house. Since the departure of long-term womenswear creative director Alber Elbaz in late 2015, who left following disagreements with Lanvin’s former majority shareholder Shaw-Lan Wang, there has been a revolving door of designers helming the women’s collections.

Elbaz, who’d been at the label for 14 years, was immediately succeeded by Bouchra Jarrar, who lasted in the role for a little over a year. Next in was Olivier Lapidus, but he departed after only eight months, leaving in March (18).

Lanvin has yet to appoint a new womenswear designer, though it was reported in October that former Loewe employee Bruno Sialelli was being lined up.

Ossendrijver earned his fashion stripes at Kenzo and Dior Homme before he joined Lanvin in 2006. He previously praised working with Elbaz as he celebrated his 10th anniversary at the brand.

“You know those 10 years have been quite formative for me,” Ossendrijver mused to Matches Fashion. “Working with Alber, I learned such a great deal of things. Spending 10 years working with someone in fashion is an eternity. It’s quite rare.”

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Designer Bruno Sialelli in talks to join Lanvin – report

Loewe designer Bruno Sialelli is reportedly in talks to join Lanvin in a key role.The French luxury fashion house has been in a state of flux since the departure of long-serving creative director Alber Elbaz in late 2015, with Lucas Ossendrijver, Bouch…

Loewe designer Bruno Sialelli is reportedly in talks to join Lanvin in a key role.

The French luxury fashion house has been in a state of flux since the departure of long-serving creative director Alber Elbaz in late 2015, with Lucas Ossendrijver, Bouchra Jarrar, and, most recently, Olivier Lapidus, among the names who’ve held the post of head designer for brief stints.

But according to editors at WWD, Lanvin bosses are in negotiations with Sialelli to take over the role of creative director. However, neither Lanvin executives nor Sialelli have yet commented on the speculation.

A rising star in the fashion industry, Sialelli has helmed the menswear department at Spanish heritage brand Loewe since March 2016.

Before that, he worked in womenswear at Paco Rabanne, as well as at Acne Studios, Balenciaga and Azzedine Alaia. His LinkedIn profile also states that he studied at the Studio Bercot fashion school in Paris in from 2008 until 2010.

In recent months, designers floated as potential successors for Lapidus have included former Berluti designer Haider Ackermann and Simon Porte Jacquemus.

Since executives at Chinese conglomerate Fosun acquired a majority stake in Lanvin in February, revamping the design team has been a major focus, with new chief executive officer Jean-Philippe Hecquet tasked with finding fresh talent.

And in August, former Louis Vuitton employee Hecquet explained that he was committed to finding the right people as part of a new strategy.

“Clearly our objective and our goals are very ambitious, and the road may be a bit bumpy. It’s never easy to bring back to life a luxury brand… I don’t take it as an easy project,” he told Business of Fashion. “My role and the role of the executive committee will really be to bring back the confidence, to bring back the positive vibes.”

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