Chanel dishes up conservative chic for spring 20 couture line

Chanel has served up conservative chic for its spring/summer 2020 couture collection.Creative director Virginie Viard unveiled her latest line at the Grand Palais as part of Paris Couture Week on Tuesday, with the presentation drawing in the likes of P…

Chanel has served up conservative chic for its spring/summer 2020 couture collection.

Creative director Virginie Viard unveiled her latest line at the Grand Palais as part of Paris Couture Week on Tuesday, with the presentation drawing in the likes of Pharrell Williams, Eva Green, G-Dragon, and Caroline, Princess of Hanover to the front row.

The venue was transformed to resemble a cloister garden, complete with fountain and white sheets hanging on a clothesline, with the theme inspired by brand founder Coco Chanel’s childhood spent at a convent in the Aubazine region of Nouvelle-Aquitaine.

“What I immediately liked was that the cloister garden was uncultivated,” Viard stated in her show notes. “It was really sunny. The place made me think of the summer, a breeze fragranced with flowers. I wanted floral embroideries like an herbarium, delicate flowers. What interested me in this decor was the paradox between the sophistication of haute couture and the simplicity of this place.”

The show opened with Vittoria Ceretti in a black and white dress matched with white tights, socks, and black flats. A number of monochromatic ensembles followed, such as a tweed suit with lace collar and long dress coats.

Gigi Hadid evoked a mother superior vibe in a belted black dress with white Peter Pan collar, and Kaia Gerber modelled a white lace dress with black tulle detailing attached to the neckline.

Towards the end of the spectacle, Viard introduced a range of dresses with floral embroidery and appliques, with Adut Akech sporting a white top with long black tiered skirt, and Rebecca Longendyke serving as the “bride” in a wedding dress with a knee-length hem made of white crepe georgette with triple Peter Pan collar, and a veil embroidered with branches of wisteria.

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Balenciaga returning to haute couture

Balenciaga is gearing up to reintroduce haute couture.The luxury fashion brand hasn’t produced a couture collection since label founder Cristobal Balenciaga, a master couturier and inspiration to the likes of Christian Dior and Coco Chanel, closed his …

Balenciaga is gearing up to reintroduce haute couture.

The luxury fashion brand hasn’t produced a couture collection since label founder Cristobal Balenciaga, a master couturier and inspiration to the likes of Christian Dior and Coco Chanel, closed his Paris-based atelier in 1968. Balenciaga died at the age of 77 in 1972.

However, current creative director Demna Gvasalia, who joined in 2015, announced on Monday that he will be bringing back the high-end range in July.

“Haute couture is the very foundation of this house,” the designer said in a statement. “So, it is my creative and visionary duty to bring couture back to Balenciaga. For me, couture is an unexplored mode of creative freedom and a platform for innovation. It not only offers another spectrum of possibilities in dressmaking, it also brings the modern vision of Balenciaga back to its sources of origin. Couture is above trends. It’s an expression of beauty on the highest aesthetic and qualitative levels.”

Georgia-born Gvasalia did not announce when or where he will unveil his debut couture line. Yet, it is likely to be aligned with Paris Couture Week, which takes place from 3 – 7 July.

And Cedric Charbit, president and chief executive officer of Balenciaga, is looking forward to seeing what the 38-year-old dreams up.

“It’s an honour to bring back the haute couture to the house, highlighting the heritage of Cristobal Balenciaga. This project was possible due to the success of the creative vision of Demna Gvasalia as well as the exceptional results of Balenciaga these past few years,” he shared. “Establishing a dedicated team and atelier replicating the original salons at the historical address 10 Avenue George V represents a strategic step in further expansions. Coming back to the haute couture that was left off by Cristobal Balenciaga in 1968 links the house’s past, present, and future.”

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Virginie Viard unveils first solo couture collection for Chanel

Virginie Viard has unveiled her first solo couture collection for Chanel.The designer, who joined the French luxury house in 1987, was appointed as artistic director in February following the death of Karl Lagerfeld at the age of 85. Viard presented t…

Virginie Viard has unveiled her first solo couture collection for Chanel.

The designer, who joined the French luxury house in 1987, was appointed as artistic director in February following the death of Karl Lagerfeld at the age of 85.

Viard presented the label’s cruise 2020 show in May, while she launched her debut high-end fall/winter 2019/20 range as part of Paris Couture Week on Tuesday morning. Held at the Grand Palais, the venue was transformed to resemble a giant circular library stacked with books.

Staying true to both founder Coco Chanel and Lagerfeld’s visions, Viard had the spectacle open with a model sporting a vibrant purple coat with high collar, as well as white tights and pumps with black bows attached to the front.

A parade of models wearing similar coats with buttons down the front followed, while Viard also offered up fresh takes on the classic Chanel boucle suit, showing a raspberry red version with bright white collar and a tangerine option with white buttons and voluminous sleeves.

Model Kaia Gerber sported a coral boucle skirt and jacket which contained white ruffle detail across the neckline, while others displayed a long green tweed jumpsuit or jackets with Edwardian-inspired collars.

Highlights of Viard’s line included an emerald green silk dress with a black bow tied at the neck, a fuchsia pleated off-the-shoulder gown, a pink sequin number complete with a tiered skirt, and a prim black velvet dress which was worn with a white shirt and black satin necktie. To conclude, the so-called Chanel “bride” walked the runway in a pyjama-style pale pink satin two-piece which was tied at the waist.

Paris Couture Week continues on Tuesday with presentations from Giorgio Armani Prive, Givenchy, and Alexandre Vauthier.

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Pharrell Williams wanted to express ‘unisex spirit’ with Chanel line

Pharrell Williams is pleased with the way his Chanel collection conveys a “unisex spirit”.Back in November (18), the music star confirmed he was partnering with the French luxury fashion house on a range, and would be working in collaboration with crea…

Pharrell Williams is pleased with the way his Chanel collection conveys a “unisex spirit”.

Back in November (18), the music star confirmed he was partnering with the French luxury fashion house on a range, and would be working in collaboration with creative director Karl Lagerfeld, who passed away at the age of 85 in February, and other designers at the company.

Now, Pharrell has given fans a glimpse at the capsule line, named Chanel Pharrell, in a behind-the-scenes video, with part of the footage showing him explain how he wanted his creations to push boundaries and build bridges between different codes and universes.

“My energy is allowed to express not only in the clothes and the design and the colour (but also in the) unisex spirit,” he said. “That was my wish list.”

The line is comprised of embellished neon T-shirts and hoodies, bright tracksuits, a robe and a range of denim. Accessories include bucket hats, white sneakers with Pharrell’s favourite scribble motifs, leather loafers, as well as heavy chains and bracelets, with a number of items featuring brand founder Coco Chanel’s iconic double-C logo or her Coco and No.5 emblems.

“Five has always been Coco’s number. You know, the famous number five. Five is the number for men. It’s also the date of my birthday,” explained Pharrell, who will celebrate his 46th birthday on 5 April (19).

Chanel Pharrell will first be available to buy at the new Chanel flagship in Seoul on 29 March and will be stocked in select boutiques worldwide from 4 April. And while Pharrell has found the entire Chanel experience to be “surreal,” he also recalled a story in which a friend had predicted that he would work with the label.

“A buddy of mine said to me, ‘One day you’re going to end up working with them, you’re going to end up doing some things and make some stuff with them.’ I was like, ‘Whatever, no I’m not.’ And he made a bet, he said, ‘If you end up working with them you got to buy me one of those watches,” the Happy hitmaker remembered, adding: “I lost the bet. It was a bet that I’ve been happy to lose.”

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Fendi celebrates Karl Lagerfeld with tribute T-shirt

Fendi has celebrated former creative director for fur and women’s ready-to-wear, Karl Lagerfeld, with the launch of a new T-shirt that honours the late designer.The JoKarl Fashion Show T-shirt is available in short-sleeved and long-sleeved options, and…

Fendi has celebrated former creative director for fur and women’s ready-to-wear, Karl Lagerfeld, with the launch of a new T-shirt that honours the late designer.

The JoKarl Fashion Show T-shirt is available in short-sleeved and long-sleeved options, and comes in either a black or while base colour.

At the centre of the garment is an illustration by Italian artist Nico Vascellari, depicting Lagerfeld as the joker on a playing card complete with jester costume and his notorious dark sunglasses

On the long-sleeved edition, drawings of dice with Fendi’s FF logo line the sleeves, and the back of each style features a smaller version of the JoKarl card.

The T-shirts are priced between $590 (£449) and $690 (£525) for the short-sleeve and long-sleeve editions respectively and can be purchased now from Fendi’s online store.

Fendi had previously honoured the fashion legend at its Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 19 show last month (Feb19), which took place just two days after the star passed away following a battle with pancreatic cancer on 19 Feb.

Honouring the fashion legend, who’d been at the house since 1965, Silvia Venturini Fendi paid an emotional tribute to her late friend and colleague as the show closed, with a video playing out of Lagerfeld’s hand, decked out in his signature leather fingerless gloves, sketching the word Fendi out.

Chanel also paid tribute to Lagerfeld, who was creative director at the house, during its Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 19 presentation.

At the event, held at Paris’ Grand Palais, each seat bore an illustration of the late designer alongside brand namesake Coco Chanel, with the poignant words “the beat goes on…”.

The show was also preceded by a one-minute silence, after which the celebrated fashion star’s voice was heard over the venue’s tannoy, beginning the presentation.

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Chanel offers apres-ski chic for F/W 19

Chanel served up apres-ski chic for its fall/ winter 19 collection on the final day of Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday morning (05Mar19).The presentation saw Paris’ Grand Palais transformed into a snow-covered winter village, surrounded by mountains and …

Chanel served up apres-ski chic for its fall/ winter 19 collection on the final day of Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday morning (05Mar19).

The presentation saw Paris’ Grand Palais transformed into a snow-covered winter village, surrounded by mountains and complete with snow-coated fir trees and alpine chalets.

Following Lagerfeld’s shock death from pancreatic cancer last month (Feb19), stars flocked to the much-anticipated show, with Naomi Campbell, Kristen Stewart, Claudia Schiffer and Janelle Monae all taking front-row spots.

Each seat bore an illustration of the late designer alongside brand namesake Coco Chanel, with the poignant words “the beat goes on…”.

The show was preceded by a one-minute silence, after which the celebrated fashion star’s voice was heard over venue’s tannoy, beginning the presentation.

Cara Delevingne opened the show in a houndstooth coat, grid print jumpsuit and matching hat in Chanel’s signature tweed, styled with a silver belt and matching necklaces.

The style was a recurring theme throughout the presentation, which featured an array of monochrome designs, alongside neutral palettes and traditional Icelandic patterns.

In the latter portion of the show, Penelope Cruz made her catwalk debut, walking the runway in a bridal look that consisted of a frilled blouse and fur puffball skirt. The actress wore white platform boots, statement silver earrings, and carried a single white rose.

Kaia Gerber, who’d recently collaborated on a collection for Lagerfeld’s namesake label, modelled a similar look.

Soo Joo Park, Binx Walton, Grace Elizabeth and Adut Akech also walked in the landmark Chanel show, showing off a mix off Chanel’s famous boucle looks and signature ladylike glam.

For the finale, models walked arm-in-arm to a standing ovation as David Bowie’s hit Heroes played.

It was a bittersweet moment – the same music was played during Lagerfeld’s final Fendi show in at Milan Fashion Week – with a number of models reduced to tears as they walked one final lap.

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Chanel to stop using fur and exotic skins in collections

Chanel will no longer use fur and exotics skins in fashion collections.In recent months, major brands including Coach, Versace, Michael Kors, Gucci, and Burberry, have ditched fur from their lines, with a number of other companies, such as Nike, ASOS, …

Chanel will no longer use fur and exotics skins in fashion collections.

In recent months, major brands including Coach, Versace, Michael Kors, Gucci, and Burberry, have ditched fur from their lines, with a number of other companies, such as Nike, ASOS, Topshop, H&M, and Puma all committing to banning exotic skins.

Now, executives at Chanel have joined the initiative, pledging to discard of fur or exotic animal skins in any future ranges.

“We are continually reviewing our supply chains to ensure they meet our expectations of integrity and traceability,” a representative said in a statement. “In this context, it is our experience that it is becoming increasingly difficult to source exotic skins which match our ethical standards.”

At present, exotic skins used in Chanel products include lizard, snake, stingray, and crocodile. A number of purses featuring exotics skins are still available to buy on the Paris-based label’s website, including a python and gold metal mini flap bag, costing $5,830 (£4,580), and a small BOY Chanel handbag with lizard and calfskin which is priced at $7,945 (£6,240).

Bruno Pavlovsky, president of Chanel fashion, said the decision to ditch animal-derived fabrics was in part due to the difficulty in finding products which were ethically and sustainably sourced. In addition, he explained that very little fur had ever been used in either Chanel founder Coco Chanel’s lines or current creative director Karl Lagerfeld’s work.

“You look at old collections, there was not much fur,” he told WWD.

Regarding Chanel’s initiative, a spokesperson for animal advocacy group People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) praised the luxury label.

“Recent advancements in textiles have made faux fur and vegan leather nearly indistinguishable from animal pelts and skins, far more sustainable, and infinitely customisable, meaning there’s simply no reason to breed and kill animals for fashion,” they said.

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Chanel to unveil next Metiers d’Art collection in New York

Chanel’s next Metiers d’Art show will be held at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.The French luxury house, helmed by designer Karl Lagerfeld, presents a runway show outside of the traditional fashion schedule each year which honours the craft…

Chanel’s next Metiers d’Art show will be held at The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York.

The French luxury house, helmed by designer Karl Lagerfeld, presents a runway show outside of the traditional fashion schedule each year which honours the craftsmanship of artisan partners.

Previously, Lagerfeld has unveiled the Metiers d’Art range in various cities, including Rome, Dallas, Edinburgh, Paris and Hamburg, but he has now announced that he will be returning to the Big Apple for a special presentation on 4 December (18).

“Karl Lagerfeld is also very attached to the American mega-city whose energy and light he has always loved to capture,” a representative said in a statement.

Chanel has had a longstanding relationship with the iconic U.S. city, and was even the subject of an extensive exhibition at The Met back in 2005, in which the museum displayed a retrospective of Coco Chanel’s groundbreaking designs shown side-by-side with Lagerfeld’s.

According to the brand, Coco first visited New York en route to Los Angeles in 1931. The label received immense support from American department stores, which carried her first hat collections from 1912, while the founder continued to build her American clientele for the next 30 years.

The upcoming presentation will not be the first time the brand has descended upon the city, following a previous Metiers d’Art presentation at the company’s boutique on 57th Street in 2005, and a cruise show in the Grand Central Terminal in 2007.

It also restaged its 2015 Paris-Salzburg Metiers d’Art runway show at the Park Avenue Armory, and erected a retrospective exhibit in Central Park in 2008.

Lagerfeld also has a close connection with The Met, having co-chaired the Met Gala in 2016 with a futuristic focus to inaugurate the new exhibition, Manus x Machina: Fashion in an Age of Technology – which centred around one of his Chanel haute couture dresses.

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Chanel launching make-up for men

Chanel is gearing up to launch its first-ever make-up collection for men.The French luxury company, led by creative director Karl Lagerfeld, has cosmetics lines stocked in a number of department stores across the world, with celebrities such as Lily-Ro…

Chanel is gearing up to launch its first-ever make-up collection for men.

The French luxury company, led by creative director Karl Lagerfeld, has cosmetics lines stocked in a number of department stores across the world, with celebrities such as Lily-Rose Depp, Keira Knightley and Kristen Stewart all fronting recent campaigns for the skincare and beauty products.

Now, it appears that Chanel bosses are seeking to tap into the growing men’s grooming market and are set to unveil a range to be known as Boy de Chanel.

“Just as Gabrielle Chanel borrowed elements from the men’s wardrobe to dress women, Chanel draws inspiration from the women’s world to write the vocabulary of a new personal aesthetic for men,” a company representative said in a statement, according to WWD. “Lines, colours, attitudes, gestures… There is no absolutely feminine or masculine prerequisite: Style alone defines the person we wish to be.”

To begin, the collection will include three items; a tinted fluid available in four colours, a matte lip balm and an eyebrow pencil. The name of the range is apparently named after Boy Capel, the English polo player who was the lover and muse of brand founder Coco Chanel.

“By creating Boy de Chanel, its first make-up line for men, Chanel reaffirms the ever-changing codes of an unchanging vision: Beauty is not a matter of gender, it is a matter of style,” the spokesperson added.

The Boy de Chanel line will first drop in boutiques in South Korea on 1 September (18) and is due to be stocked in other stores and online in November.

Beauty giants including Tom Ford and Clinique have released products aimed at men in the past, while YouTube stars such as James Charles and Manuel Gutierrez have proven that men’s make-up is no longer a novelty.

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Max Mara opens doors to extensive archive

Max Mara’s design team dip into the label’s extensive archive for inspiration on new collections.Creative director Ian Griffiths, the British designer who’s been with the Italian label for more than 30 years, has just opened the doors of the impressive…

Max Mara’s design team dip into the label’s extensive archive for inspiration on new collections.

Creative director Ian Griffiths, the British designer who’s been with the Italian label for more than 30 years, has just opened the doors of the impressive archive to the BBC, showing off everything from a handbag owned by Coco Chanel to one of Audrey Hepburn’s old coats.

Explaining why the hoard is so vital to the brand, he shared: “What you have here is one of the reasons we have an archive. It’s my design team, and what they’re working on is the next collection inspired by pieces they’ve found here this morning.

“You know, I don’t know how many other brands have an archive like this, but being here with you makes me realise just how unique it is, how inclusive, how extensive and how inspiring it is.”

Other items in the archive include a magazine collection, sketches, textile samples and rails of camel coats – Max Mara’s signature design.

There are 30,000 pieces in total, and in one room alone, 7,000 items have been sourced from vintage stores and markets.

“(We keep them) simply because they’re things that interested us at some time or will interest us in the future,” Griffiths explained, before gesturing towards a raspberry red dress wrapped in tissue paper. “This is one of the best ever flea market finds. It’s been hanging here for years, but when it needed repairing, (we) looked at it properly and discovered it’s by Jeanne Lanvin in Paris. So, it has enormous value in the history and culture of fashion, but we picked it up for dollars.”

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