Erdem Moralioglu’s design process is about more than just creating new clothes – he comes up with fresh fabric ideas too.
Admitting he is “textile‐driven” when it comes to his eponymous label, Erdem explained in a chat with Prestige magazine that he visualises the fabrics, as well as the dresses, when he begins the process of designing a new collection.
“I’ve always been very textile‐driven, whether it’s print, fabric manipulation or embroidery,” he mused. “It always feels integral to my work process – fabric and silhouette go hand in hand. I’d design a dress and along with it, imagine the fabric. Fabrics take a long time to develop, so we need to work on them early.”
After launching his label in 2005, the 42-year-old designer, who trained at London’s Royal College of Art, quickly gained a reputation for his print-heavy feminine designs, which have been worn by the likes of Cate Blanchett, Keira Knightley and Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, among many other famous ladies.
For his spring/ summer 19 collection, which he showed as part of London Fashion Week in September, Erdem took inspiration from Victorian cross‐dressers Frederick Park and Ernest Boulton, otherwise known as Stella and Fanny. He stumbled on their story after he bought a house in the Bloomsbury area of London.
“A story is what I need as a catalyst to create a collection,” he explained.
Naturally, the line featured unique prints and fabrics.
“Often, prints and the fabrics can be an extension of telling the story,” Erdem added.
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