Erdem Moralioglu: ‘I’m driven by textiles’

Erdem Moralioglu’s design process is about more than just creating new clothes – he comes up with fresh fabric ideas too.Admitting he is “textile‐driven” when it comes to his eponymous label, Erdem explained in a chat with Prestige magazine that he v…

Erdem Moralioglu’s design process is about more than just creating new clothes – he comes up with fresh fabric ideas too.

Admitting he is “textile‐driven” when it comes to his eponymous label, Erdem explained in a chat with Prestige magazine that he visualises the fabrics, as well as the dresses, when he begins the process of designing a new collection.

“I’ve always been very textile‐driven, whether it’s print, fabric manipulation or embroidery,” he mused. “It always feels integral to my work process – fabric and silhouette go hand in hand. I’d design a dress and along with it, imagine the fabric. Fabrics take a long time to develop, so we need to work on them early.”

After launching his label in 2005, the 42-year-old designer, who trained at London’s Royal College of Art, quickly gained a reputation for his print-heavy feminine designs, which have been worn by the likes of Cate Blanchett, Keira Knightley and Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, among many other famous ladies.

For his spring/ summer 19 collection, which he showed as part of London Fashion Week in September, Erdem took inspiration from Victorian cross‐dressers Frederick Park and Ernest Boulton, otherwise known as Stella and Fanny. He stumbled on their story after he bought a house in the Bloomsbury area of London.

“A story is what I need as a catalyst to create a collection,” he explained.

Naturally, the line featured unique prints and fabrics.

“Often, prints and the fabrics can be an extension of telling the story,” Erdem added.

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Erdem delivers dark romance for Fall/ Winter 19

Erdem brought Gothic glamour to London Fashion Week on Monday morning (18Feb19).Presenting a mean and moody collection on a mean and moody day in the British capital, designer Erdem Moralıoglu tapped into a dark romance theme for Fall/ Winter 19.Heavy…

Erdem brought Gothic glamour to London Fashion Week on Monday morning (18Feb19).

Presenting a mean and moody collection on a mean and moody day in the British capital, designer Erdem Moralıoglu tapped into a dark romance theme for Fall/ Winter 19.

Heavy baroque fabrics, black lace and capes were some of the stand out moments, as was a tiered dress with added bows.

Vivid red outfits, like a sheer calf-length flowing dress with ruffled neck detailing, worked well next to blue fabrics, while purple and black also featured heavily in the colour palette.

Moralıoglu brought the wow factor with feathery fringing and sequinned evening gowns, though each creation on the catwalk was exquisite.

Earlier in the morning, Roksanda served up billowing fabrics for its fall/ winter 19 show.

The brand, headed up by Roksanda Ilincic, is known for its elegant nightwear and use of bright colours, and didn’t divert too far from the norm with its latest offerings.

Loose fitting clothes is going to be a big trend for the colder months, and Ilincic put a feminine take on this, adding bows, ruffles and feathering detail to lots of her dresses.

Pretty pastel hues worked alongside bold shades of burnt orange and mustard yellow, while there was also some neutral tones thrown in.

As well as the flowing fabric dresses, Ilincic also made a case for layering, seen on coats and jackets which featured oversized lapels, zippered sections and both zips and buttons fastenings.

And daywear was given a Roksanda makeover, with trouser suits and slouchy jumpsuits appearing in soft shades of grey, nipped in at the waist with the skinny belts seen throughout the presentation.

Christopher Kane, Emilia Wickstead, David Koma are all showing later on Monday.

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Erdem parades Edwardian Elegance at London Fashion Week

Springtime florals mixed with a Gothic undertone were served up at Erdem’s spring/ summer 19 London Fashion Week show on Monday (17Sep18).Bucking the usual trend for light and delicate designs on offer at the spring shows, designer Erdem Moralıoglu …

Springtime florals mixed with a Gothic undertone were served up at Erdem’s spring/ summer 19 London Fashion Week show on Monday (17Sep18).

Bucking the usual trend for light and delicate designs on offer at the spring shows, designer Erdem Moralıoglu dressed his models in heavier looks that wouldn’t seem out of place in the colder months, like a baroque cape finished with black detailing.

The Edwardian elegance didn’t end there; long button down jackets, lace trim and structured shoulders were also reminiscent of the time.

Floral print featured heavily, and was seen across high-neck, long sleeve dresses, as well as cropped jackets and skirts.

There were some modern elements too, with models dressed in suits, chequered and polka dot, showing how high-end workwear can be.

Earlier on Monday, Roksanda presented a collection brimming with tangerine tones, flowing fabric and tailored pieces, with the London weather reflecting the summer vibes on display at designer Roksanda Ilincic’s latest runway,

Various garments sported a line drawing illustration, including a pale green ankle-skimming dress which featured splashes of orange material, cinched in at the waist by a belt, and a similar design this time on a white and creamy pink version, as well as a more abstract dress near the end of the presentation consisting of billowing white fabric held together with black shoulder straps.

Opening with chic tailoring, which was given a feminine update with wide-legged trousers and loose-fitting blazers, Ilincic saved her showstoppers for the finale, including a sequin dress in a frothy lemon shade, teamed with a sheer cape which featured the graphic black illustrations seen throughout the show.

London Fashion Week continues with shows from Burberry, with Riccardo Tisci making his debut as artistic director for the heritage brand.

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Erdem Moralioglu made his first dress at the age of six

Erdem Moralioglu was just six years old when he made his first dress.The Montreal-born designer launched ERDEM in London in 2005, with the label known for its experimental textiles, vibrant prints and detailed craftsmanship, and adored by celebrities i…

Erdem Moralioglu was just six years old when he made his first dress.

The Montreal-born designer launched ERDEM in London in 2005, with the label known for its experimental textiles, vibrant prints and detailed craftsmanship, and adored by celebrities including Keira Knightley, Emma Watson and Meghan, Duchess of Sussex.

In a recent interview with British Vogue, Erdem explained that fashion was in his blood from a very young age, and as a child, he once decided to make an outfit for his twin sister Sara’s doll, in his favourite colour.

“Powder blue! Mum helped me,” he laughed, recalling the circle-skirted bustier frock. “Of course, my father was a proud Turk and all that, but looking back, we were raised in quite a gender-neutral way. If our parents thought we could do something well, then they encouraged us. It wasn’t like, ‘This is for girls, this is for boys.'”

Over the years, the fashion star has built up a reputation for adding a bold twist to an otherwise delicate garment, and often stitches pockets into dresses. He believes that incorporating casual measures helps his pieces cater to the needs of a new generation.

“I love the idea of arming someone with tools. I think that’s lovely,” the 41-year-old smiled.

Erdem previously shared that he enjoyed watching TV shows about designers such as Yves Saint Laurent and John Galliano in his younger years and also takes inspiration from the costumes worn by movie stars in Alfred Hitchcock films.

But his designs are mostly influenced by his journalist sister.

“My fascination with the female species came from having someone who was part of me, but the opposite sex,” he said of Sara in an interview with Vanity Fair.

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Erdem Moralioglu excited to explore his heritage through fashion

Erdem Moralioglu is excited to be able to explore his diverse heritage through fashion.The Montreal-born designer established his namesake brand in London back in 2005 and has since gone on to build up a reputation for his use of vibrant prints and inn…

Erdem Moralioglu is excited to be able to explore his diverse heritage through fashion.

The Montreal-born designer established his namesake brand in London back in 2005 and has since gone on to build up a reputation for his use of vibrant prints and innovative textiles.

While Moralioglu doesn’t consider himself to be a political designer, he can’t help but be inspired by his father’s Turkish background and mother’s British heritage, as well as the current social and political climate.

“I find it impossible not to question and observe what’s happening around me,” he told Vanity Fair, adding that his East Meets West fall/winter 2017 collection celebrated his diverse background and was designed to juxtapose English motifs with luxe Ottoman embroideries. “It felt timely to explore my heritage, with two parents from different countries, cultures, and religions.”

Moralioglu’s designs are now coveted by Gwyneth Paltrow, Emma Watson, Jessica Chastain, Sarah Jessica Parker, former U.S. First Lady Michelle Obama, Meghan Markle and her soon-to-be sister-in-law, Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge.

While the designer may now outfit a range of high-profile names, he started with humble beginnings, and when he wasn’t at school, was always watching fashion television.

“If you needed to find 10-year-old me, I was watching Y.S.L. and Galliano, cross-legged on the floor,” the London-based designer smiled.

Among his inspirations are the costumes worn by stars in Alfred Hitchcock films, as well as the two most important women in his life – his mother and twin sister Sara.

“My fascination with the female species came from having someone who was part of me, but the opposite sex,” he said of his sibling, while adding that he still appreciates his mum’s keen eye for style. “It was her perfect, extraordinary openness and questioning mind that (was) beautiful.”

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BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund 2018 shortlist announced

Six British-based names are in the running to win the 2018 BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund.In a statement, competition organisers from the British Fashion Council (BFC) announced that designers Molly Goddard, Huishan Zhang, David Koma, Rejina Pyo, as w…

Six British-based names are in the running to win the 2018 BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund.

In a statement, competition organisers from the British Fashion Council (BFC) announced that designers Molly Goddard, Huishan Zhang, David Koma, Rejina Pyo, as well as Marques’ Almeida’s Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida and Le Kilt’s Samantha McCoach have been shortlisted for the prestigious prize.

BFC chief executive officer Caroline Rush said that those shortlisted show the breadth of fashion talent in the U.K.

“All shortlisted designers are incredibly talented and have the potential to become the U.K.’s next global fashion house,” she said in a statement.

Established in 2008, the fashion fund aims to discover new talent and accelerate growth over a twelve-month period through mentoring and awarding a cash prize of £200,000 ($277,000).

This year’s judging committee is chaired by Edward Enninful, editor-in-chief of U.K. Vogue, as well as Rush, designers Erdem Moralioglu and Gemma Metheringham, beauty entrepreneur Maria Hatzistefanis, model Jourdan Dunn, Burberry chief marketing officer Sarah Manley, Harrods’ Helen David, the BFC’s Sarah Mower, Topshop’s Paul Price and JD.com’s Xia Ding.

Speaking about the competition, Enninful commented: “The BFC Vogue Designer Fashion Fund is a hugely important initiative and I am thrilled to have chaired this year’s committee. Our shortlist is a true representation of the diverse and inspirational design talent we foster in the U.K., and I’m excited to see who will impress us as we move forward.”

In 2017, the prize was shared between two recipients, Mother of Pearl and Palmer Harding. Previous winners of the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund include Christopher Kane, Erdem, Mary Katrantzou, Nicholas Kirkwood, Peter Pilotto and Sophia Webster.

The 2018 winner will be announced on 8 May.

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