Extinction Rebellion activists call for end of London Fashion Week

Extinction Rebellion activists are campaigning for the cancellation of London Fashion Week.  The socio-political movement was established in May 2018, with members seeking to protest against climate breakdown and biodiversity loss, and the demonstr…

Extinction Rebellion activists are campaigning for the cancellation of London Fashion Week.  

The socio-political movement was established in May 2018, with members seeking to protest against climate breakdown and biodiversity loss, and the demonstrations ramped up in April, when activists occupied five prominent sites in central London.  

Now, organisers at Extinction Rebellion have taken to social media to announce that they plan to hold events calling for the end of the British capital’s biggest fashion event, which is due to run from 12-17 September.  

“We face an existential threat if we do not change course by 2020, yet meaningful action has not yet begun,” a representative wrote on Instagram, along with a picture featuring the words “Cancel London Fashion Week” in bold font. “We need culture to lead the way. Fashion is one of the most polluting industries and one of the most influential. Fashion should be a cultural signifier of our times, and yet it still adheres to an archaic system of seasonal fashion and relentless newness at a time of emergency.”  

They went on to claim that they had sent a letter to British Fashion Council (BFC) bosses, including chief executive officer Caroline Rush, last month, urging them to scrap the upcoming shows and to declare a “climate and ecological emergency”.  

“We will not stand by while the natural world is being taken from beneath our feet. We will send a clear sign to the fashion industry that business, as usual, is leading us to extinction,” an organiser added.  

In a Facebook post, members of Extinction Rebellion also claimed they will be holding “actions” from 13-16 September and will hold a “funeral procession” at 6 pm on the Strand on 17 September to symbolise the “death” of the spectacle.  

The BFC is yet to issue an official statement on the potential protests.  

Temperley London, Molly Goddard, Preen by Thornton Bregazzi, Victoria Beckham, Emilia Wickstead, Erdem, and Burberry are all slated to hold presentations during London Fashion Week.

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Erdem Moralioglu: ‘I’m driven by textiles’

Erdem Moralioglu’s design process is about more than just creating new clothes – he comes up with fresh fabric ideas too.Admitting he is “textile‐driven” when it comes to his eponymous label, Erdem explained in a chat with Prestige magazine that he v…

Erdem Moralioglu’s design process is about more than just creating new clothes – he comes up with fresh fabric ideas too.

Admitting he is “textile‐driven” when it comes to his eponymous label, Erdem explained in a chat with Prestige magazine that he visualises the fabrics, as well as the dresses, when he begins the process of designing a new collection.

“I’ve always been very textile‐driven, whether it’s print, fabric manipulation or embroidery,” he mused. “It always feels integral to my work process – fabric and silhouette go hand in hand. I’d design a dress and along with it, imagine the fabric. Fabrics take a long time to develop, so we need to work on them early.”

After launching his label in 2005, the 42-year-old designer, who trained at London’s Royal College of Art, quickly gained a reputation for his print-heavy feminine designs, which have been worn by the likes of Cate Blanchett, Keira Knightley and Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge, among many other famous ladies.

For his spring/ summer 19 collection, which he showed as part of London Fashion Week in September, Erdem took inspiration from Victorian cross‐dressers Frederick Park and Ernest Boulton, otherwise known as Stella and Fanny. He stumbled on their story after he bought a house in the Bloomsbury area of London.

“A story is what I need as a catalyst to create a collection,” he explained.

Naturally, the line featured unique prints and fabrics.

“Often, prints and the fabrics can be an extension of telling the story,” Erdem added.

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Preen by Thornton Bregazzi live fashion event heading to the V&A

London’s famous Victoria and Albert Museum has tapped Preen by Thornton Bregazzi for its next Fashion in Motion event.The live fashion programme features some of the “greatest designers of modern times,” bringing the catwalk experience to a wider audie…

London’s famous Victoria and Albert Museum has tapped Preen by Thornton Bregazzi for its next Fashion in Motion event.

The live fashion programme features some of the “greatest designers of modern times,” bringing the catwalk experience to a wider audience by modelling it against the beautiful backdrop of the iconic museum.

Alexander McQueen, Erdem, Jean Paul Gaultier, Jenny Packham, Roksanda Ilincic and Vivienne Westwood have all previously been the focus, with the V&A now shining the spotlight on Justin Thornton and Thea Bregazzi’s London-based brand.

“The museum has always been an endless source of inspiration for our designs,” the duo said in a statement. “First stop on a visit is always the Ceramics Galleries where we love to look at the amazing collection of decorated porcelain. Elements of Victorian culture and costume seep into our collections and the floral motifs of the arts and crafts movement often form the basis of our signature prints.”

Fashion in Motion: Preen by Thornton Bregazzi begins on 21 June in the V&A’s Raphael Gallery. There will be four catwalk shows throughout the day at 13.00, 15.00, 17.00 and 20.00.

The event is free but booking is required – tickets will be available from the museum’s website from 10 June.

“As a west London-based brand, having the V&A on our doorstep is such a blessing – the museum has always been an endless source of inspiration for our designs,” the designers, who started their label in 1996, added. “We feel honoured to show our work in an institution that has been so formative to Preen’s brand DNA.”

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Erdem delivers dark romance for Fall/ Winter 19

Erdem brought Gothic glamour to London Fashion Week on Monday morning (18Feb19).Presenting a mean and moody collection on a mean and moody day in the British capital, designer Erdem Moralıoglu tapped into a dark romance theme for Fall/ Winter 19.Heavy…

Erdem brought Gothic glamour to London Fashion Week on Monday morning (18Feb19).

Presenting a mean and moody collection on a mean and moody day in the British capital, designer Erdem Moralıoglu tapped into a dark romance theme for Fall/ Winter 19.

Heavy baroque fabrics, black lace and capes were some of the stand out moments, as was a tiered dress with added bows.

Vivid red outfits, like a sheer calf-length flowing dress with ruffled neck detailing, worked well next to blue fabrics, while purple and black also featured heavily in the colour palette.

Moralıoglu brought the wow factor with feathery fringing and sequinned evening gowns, though each creation on the catwalk was exquisite.

Earlier in the morning, Roksanda served up billowing fabrics for its fall/ winter 19 show.

The brand, headed up by Roksanda Ilincic, is known for its elegant nightwear and use of bright colours, and didn’t divert too far from the norm with its latest offerings.

Loose fitting clothes is going to be a big trend for the colder months, and Ilincic put a feminine take on this, adding bows, ruffles and feathering detail to lots of her dresses.

Pretty pastel hues worked alongside bold shades of burnt orange and mustard yellow, while there was also some neutral tones thrown in.

As well as the flowing fabric dresses, Ilincic also made a case for layering, seen on coats and jackets which featured oversized lapels, zippered sections and both zips and buttons fastenings.

And daywear was given a Roksanda makeover, with trouser suits and slouchy jumpsuits appearing in soft shades of grey, nipped in at the waist with the skinny belts seen throughout the presentation.

Christopher Kane, Emilia Wickstead, David Koma are all showing later on Monday.

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Adwoa Aboah happy to see beauty world embrace freckles

Adwoa Aboah is very happy to see the beauty world really embrace freckles.The British model, known for her cropped hairstyle and freckles, is one of the most sought-after names in the fashion business, having modelled for the likes of Calvin Klein, Fen…

Adwoa Aboah is very happy to see the beauty world really embrace freckles.

The British model, known for her cropped hairstyle and freckles, is one of the most sought-after names in the fashion business, having modelled for the likes of Calvin Klein, Fendi, Topshop, Kenzo and Erdem since launching her career.

Even though models in the past may have been required to cover up freckles, Adwoa is pleased to see the tides changing in the industry.

“I just saw a lot of freckles at the Love party – I think people had drawn them on – they looked really good,” she told Harper’s Bazaar. “It was never something I’ve been insecure about so I think it’s quite cool that fashion is embracing them.”

Adwoa recently landed a gig as a Revlon ambassador – her first major beauty contract. She is thrilled to appear in the Live Boldly campaign alongside the likes of Gal Gadot and Ashley Graham, but admitted that she doesn’t actually wear a whole lot of make-up on a day to day basis.

“I like a bit of highlighter but I don’t do contouring or anything like that,” the 26-year-old commented. “Daily, I just do an eyebrow brush and a little bit of gloss on my eyelids when I go out. All the other girls use the InstaFilter foundation but I don’t use it because of my freckles. I generally steer clear of foundation because of that.”

In addition, Adwoa will sometimes use a volumising mascara on her lashes or a slick of classic red lipstick on her pout. But she is “quite militant” when it comes to skincare.

“I have quite a weird relationship with my skin, it goes up and down all the time, so I’m quite militant with skincare,” she added. “I use Sarah Chapman, Barbara Sturm, Glam Glow masks – skincare is where I have a schedule, night and day.”

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Erdem parades Edwardian Elegance at London Fashion Week

Springtime florals mixed with a Gothic undertone were served up at Erdem’s spring/ summer 19 London Fashion Week show on Monday (17Sep18).Bucking the usual trend for light and delicate designs on offer at the spring shows, designer Erdem Moralıoglu …

Springtime florals mixed with a Gothic undertone were served up at Erdem’s spring/ summer 19 London Fashion Week show on Monday (17Sep18).

Bucking the usual trend for light and delicate designs on offer at the spring shows, designer Erdem Moralıoglu dressed his models in heavier looks that wouldn’t seem out of place in the colder months, like a baroque cape finished with black detailing.

The Edwardian elegance didn’t end there; long button down jackets, lace trim and structured shoulders were also reminiscent of the time.

Floral print featured heavily, and was seen across high-neck, long sleeve dresses, as well as cropped jackets and skirts.

There were some modern elements too, with models dressed in suits, chequered and polka dot, showing how high-end workwear can be.

Earlier on Monday, Roksanda presented a collection brimming with tangerine tones, flowing fabric and tailored pieces, with the London weather reflecting the summer vibes on display at designer Roksanda Ilincic’s latest runway,

Various garments sported a line drawing illustration, including a pale green ankle-skimming dress which featured splashes of orange material, cinched in at the waist by a belt, and a similar design this time on a white and creamy pink version, as well as a more abstract dress near the end of the presentation consisting of billowing white fabric held together with black shoulder straps.

Opening with chic tailoring, which was given a feminine update with wide-legged trousers and loose-fitting blazers, Ilincic saved her showstoppers for the finale, including a sequin dress in a frothy lemon shade, teamed with a sheer cape which featured the graphic black illustrations seen throughout the show.

London Fashion Week continues with shows from Burberry, with Riccardo Tisci making his debut as artistic director for the heritage brand.

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Erdem Moralioglu made his first dress at the age of six

Erdem Moralioglu was just six years old when he made his first dress.The Montreal-born designer launched ERDEM in London in 2005, with the label known for its experimental textiles, vibrant prints and detailed craftsmanship, and adored by celebrities i…

Erdem Moralioglu was just six years old when he made his first dress.

The Montreal-born designer launched ERDEM in London in 2005, with the label known for its experimental textiles, vibrant prints and detailed craftsmanship, and adored by celebrities including Keira Knightley, Emma Watson and Meghan, Duchess of Sussex.

In a recent interview with British Vogue, Erdem explained that fashion was in his blood from a very young age, and as a child, he once decided to make an outfit for his twin sister Sara’s doll, in his favourite colour.

“Powder blue! Mum helped me,” he laughed, recalling the circle-skirted bustier frock. “Of course, my father was a proud Turk and all that, but looking back, we were raised in quite a gender-neutral way. If our parents thought we could do something well, then they encouraged us. It wasn’t like, ‘This is for girls, this is for boys.'”

Over the years, the fashion star has built up a reputation for adding a bold twist to an otherwise delicate garment, and often stitches pockets into dresses. He believes that incorporating casual measures helps his pieces cater to the needs of a new generation.

“I love the idea of arming someone with tools. I think that’s lovely,” the 41-year-old smiled.

Erdem previously shared that he enjoyed watching TV shows about designers such as Yves Saint Laurent and John Galliano in his younger years and also takes inspiration from the costumes worn by movie stars in Alfred Hitchcock films.

But his designs are mostly influenced by his journalist sister.

“My fascination with the female species came from having someone who was part of me, but the opposite sex,” he said of Sara in an interview with Vanity Fair.

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Molly Goddard scoops 2018 BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund

Molly Goddard has been named the winner of the 2018 BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund.The London-born designer, who is quickly building up a reputation for dresses featuring sheer elements and layers of frothy tulle, scooped the prestigious prize at an e…

Molly Goddard has been named the winner of the 2018 BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund.

The London-born designer, who is quickly building up a reputation for dresses featuring sheer elements and layers of frothy tulle, scooped the prestigious prize at an event held in the British capital on Wednesday night (02May18).

Regarding Goddard’s win, British Vogue editor-in-chief Edward Enninful said in a statement published by the publication that the judging panel were impressed by her focus and work ethic.

“Molly Goddard is an original. She has a singular vision and an extraordinary focus that has propelled her label to an international level,” he shared. “A playful edge and a strong DNA make for a singularly off-beat formula. She is the definition of talent and what Britain does best in this creative industry.”

Established in 2008, the fashion fund aims to discover new talent and accelerate the growth of a designer’s business over a twelve-month period through mentoring and the awarding of a cash prize of $271,000 (£200,000).

Goddard beat out Huishan Zhang, David Koma, Rejina Pyo, as well as Marques’ Almeida’s Marta Marques and Paulo Almeida and Le Kilt’s Samantha McCoach, who were all shortlisted for the award.

The 29-year-old launched her brand in 2014 on a tight budget and has since gone on to garner a number of celebrity fans including Rihanna, Adwoa Aboah and Zendaya.

And the fashion star is amazed at the pace with which her label has grown.

“We made money from making and selling clothes. It’s hard,” she told Vogue. “It is difficult to not owe anyone money and not to lose any money – that in itself is an achievement. We decided to just take it really slowly, and it’s amazing that it worked.”

In 2017, the prize was shared between two recipients, Mother of Pearl and Palmer Harding.

Previous winners of the BFC/Vogue Designer Fashion Fund include Christopher Kane, Erdem, Mary Katrantzou, Nicholas Kirkwood, Peter Pilotto and Sophia Webster.

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Erdem Moralioglu excited to explore his heritage through fashion

Erdem Moralioglu is excited to be able to explore his diverse heritage through fashion.The Montreal-born designer established his namesake brand in London back in 2005 and has since gone on to build up a reputation for his use of vibrant prints and inn…

Erdem Moralioglu is excited to be able to explore his diverse heritage through fashion.

The Montreal-born designer established his namesake brand in London back in 2005 and has since gone on to build up a reputation for his use of vibrant prints and innovative textiles.

While Moralioglu doesn’t consider himself to be a political designer, he can’t help but be inspired by his father’s Turkish background and mother’s British heritage, as well as the current social and political climate.

“I find it impossible not to question and observe what’s happening around me,” he told Vanity Fair, adding that his East Meets West fall/winter 2017 collection celebrated his diverse background and was designed to juxtapose English motifs with luxe Ottoman embroideries. “It felt timely to explore my heritage, with two parents from different countries, cultures, and religions.”

Moralioglu’s designs are now coveted by Gwyneth Paltrow, Emma Watson, Jessica Chastain, Sarah Jessica Parker, former U.S. First Lady Michelle Obama, Meghan Markle and her soon-to-be sister-in-law, Catherine, Duchess of Cambridge.

While the designer may now outfit a range of high-profile names, he started with humble beginnings, and when he wasn’t at school, was always watching fashion television.

“If you needed to find 10-year-old me, I was watching Y.S.L. and Galliano, cross-legged on the floor,” the London-based designer smiled.

Among his inspirations are the costumes worn by stars in Alfred Hitchcock films, as well as the two most important women in his life – his mother and twin sister Sara.

“My fascination with the female species came from having someone who was part of me, but the opposite sex,” he said of his sibling, while adding that he still appreciates his mum’s keen eye for style. “It was her perfect, extraordinary openness and questioning mind that (was) beautiful.”

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Anna Wintour: ‘Fashion Week does get a little repetitive’

Anna Wintour says that Fashion Week has become stuck in its ways.The U.S. Vogue editor was interviewed by her own publication on her London Fashion Week highlights after the event came to a close on Tuesday (20Feb18). Having sat front row for many of t…

Anna Wintour says that Fashion Week has become stuck in its ways.

The U.S. Vogue editor was interviewed by her own publication on her London Fashion Week highlights after the event came to a close on Tuesday (20Feb18).

Having sat front row for many of the catwalk show over the last six days, as well as in New York the week before, the fashion mogul opened up about the repetitive nature of Fashion Week.

“Fashion has to be about change and I think the show and the ritual of going to all the shows has become very stuck,” the 68-year-old said in a video posted on Vogue’s website. “You may see beautiful shows but because it’s always the same it does get a little repetitive.”

However, Anna went on to reveal that she’s been inspired by many of the collections that were unveiled by designers in both London and New York and applauded the individuals for helping to keep things fresh on the catwalk.

“The fact that we’re now seeing generations both in London and New York wanting to question everything and do it differently, how exciting and wonderful is that? That’s what fashion should be about,” she smiled.

The industry expert, who has been editor-in-chief of the famous fashion glossy since 1988, heaped praise on a number of British brands who showcased their latest lines in London, such as Erdem and Simone Rocha.

She was particularly complimentary towards Burberry’s fall/winter show, which marked the last collection by chief creative officer and president Christopher Bailey.

“It was an incredible last show. I think he summed up everything he believes in whether it’s gay rights, optimism, the spirit of youth, the spirit of London streets,” Anna said of the 46-year-old’s “emotional” final catwalk spectacle.

Anna also sat pride of place next to Queen Elizabeth II at Richard Quinn’s show on the final day of London Fashion Week. The designer was honoured with the inaugural Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design, and his show marked the first time the Queen has ever taken in a Fashion Week presentation.

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