Celebrity fashion guru blasts top designers for ‘only working with white stylists’

Fashion star Jason Bolden has claimed some top designers only work with black celebrities if they have “a white stylist”.Earlier this week, a representative for French fashion house Celine, headed up by Hedi Slimane, uploaded a message on Instagram in …

Fashion star Jason Bolden has claimed some top designers only work with black celebrities if they have “a white stylist”.

Earlier this week, a representative for French fashion house Celine, headed up by Hedi Slimane, uploaded a message on Instagram in support of the Black Lives Matter movement following the shocking death of African-American man George Floyd at the hands of white police officers in Minneapolis, Minnesota on 25 May.

“Celine stands against all forms of discrimination, oppression, and racism. Tomorrow’s world will not exist without equality for all,” they stated.

However, Bolden soon took issue with the post and wrote in the comments section: “Wait really, you guys dnt (sic) dress any black celebs unless they have a white stylist @celine. FACTS.”

The Styling Hollywood personality, who regularly works with the likes of Taraji P. Henson, Ava DuVernay, Cynthia Erivo, Janet Mock, Sasha Lane, and Yara Shahidi, didn’t expand any further. However, when moderators at fashion Instagram page Diet Prada picked up the story, Bolden also alleged the team at Saint Laurent, helmed by Anthony Vaccarello, and other leading fashion houses were behind the times with embracing diversity.

“@ysl is another one! I’m only supporting brands who support us,” he added. “NOT JUST THIS BRAND BUT TO ALL OF THEM, BE HONEST ABOUT HOW YOU’VE SUPPORTED THIS TYPE OF TREATMENT OF BLACK PEOPLE! WE SEE YOU AND WONT SUPPORT YOU UNTIL YOU SUPPORT US (sic).”

Bolden’s comments soon racked up thousands of likes, with model Adwoa Aboah replying: “Call them all out. This is the way we have been treated by so many brands for far too long.”

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Rick Owens unimpressed by Riccardo Tisci and Hedi Slimane’s ‘bourgeois’ fashion

Rick Owens has voiced his disappointment at designers including Riccardo Tisci and Hedi Slimane for pushing “bourgeois” fashion trends.The veteran American designer was recently “stunned” to see sensible clothes being advertised to the younger generati…

Rick Owens has voiced his disappointment at designers including Riccardo Tisci and Hedi Slimane for pushing “bourgeois” fashion trends.

The veteran American designer was recently “stunned” to see sensible clothes being advertised to the younger generation by luxury labels and told New York Magazine that his goth glam aesthetic is being rejected.

“What’s interesting now is that whole bourgeois thing, which Riccardo Tisci started doing at Burberry and Hedi Slimane is doing at Celine,” Owens explained, before sharing his disgust at a huge Celine billboard in the Place de la Concorde in Paris that featured a model dressed in “a pleated tweed culotte skirt and a Peter Pan collar trimmed in lace, pearls or something”.

“I know that it’s supposed to be provocative, and it is, because it kind of stuns me every time I see it,” he confessed. “That this sensibility is aspirational for a young audience that never really experienced that, I suppose? All of their parents are wearing my clothes!”

Owens added: “I can see how that generation is reacting against me. I take it very personally. With a giggle.”

Despite voicing his concerns with the style of luxury labels in the fashion industry, the designer noted that he’s a huge fan of Ashley and Mary-Kate Olsen’s chic brand, The Row.

“They’ve really maintained a consistently pure aesthetic that I’m always going to look at. It’s the antithesis of all the other runway shows in New York. I admire what they’re doing,” Owens revealed, noting that he also appreciates Chris Peters’s label, CDLM. “I liked what I saw that they were doing.”

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Hedi Slimane debuts Celine’s first menswear collection

Hedi Slimane has put his signature touch on his debut menswear collection for Celine.The French designer, who made his mark on the fashion world during his tenures at Dior Homme and then Saint Laurent, was announced as the new Celine head in January 20…

Hedi Slimane has put his signature touch on his debut menswear collection for Celine.

The French designer, who made his mark on the fashion world during his tenures at Dior Homme and then Saint Laurent, was announced as the new Celine head in January 2018, succeeding long-serving creative director Phoebe Philo.

On Sunday (20Jan18), Slimane showed as part of Paris Fashion Week Men’s, unveiling Celine’s first full collection of menswear, after teasing men’s pieces during his first show for the label in September.

The clothes paid homage to late ‘70s, early ‘80s British youth culture, with a particular focus on coats.

Jackets took the form of leather bikers, tweed blazers, duffels and British heritage coats. There were also shearling numbers – in both suede and patent leather – leopard print jackets and a standout yellow tiger-striped coat.

The outerwear was paired with tight-fitting leather pants or looser slacks, both of which were cut just above the ankle.

An array of shirts and ties finished the tailored looks. Many models sported either bowl haircuts, with all of them wearing a pair of dark glasses.

“Traditional tailoring is at the heart of the collection, pushing further the new rectangular volume that I began last season for Celine,” Slimane said in a statement. “Tweeds, donegals and cashmere overcoats worn over Celine tailored suits or leather jackets define my research into suspended proportions.”

Revealing in his show notes that he was inspired to create the collection after listening to emerging British bands while travelling between Los Angeles and London, where he now lives.

He described the collection as “a Polaroid snapshot of this young British creative community”.

Courtney Love, Miles Kane and Natalia Vodianova were among the stars sitting front row.

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Music, movie and fashion stars sit FROW at Paris Fashion Week: Men’s

The front rows at Paris Fashion Week: Men’s were awash with the A-list over the weekend (18-20Jan19).Everyone from new fashion darling Jonah Hill to catwalk legend Naomi Campbell turned out for the menswear shows in the City of Light, with no one letti…

The front rows at Paris Fashion Week: Men’s were awash with the A-list over the weekend (18-20Jan19).

Everyone from new fashion darling Jonah Hill to catwalk legend Naomi Campbell turned out for the menswear shows in the City of Light, with no one letting the riots held by the gilets jaunes (yellow vests) stand in their way.

At the Adidas MakerLab Presents: Here to Create show on Friday (18Jan18), designers Nicholas Daley, Paolina Russo, and Priya Ahluwalia were cheered on by Jonah, David Beckham, and Karlie Kloss.

“I’m definitely interested in young designers,” Jonah told WWD. “I need to know somebody personally and understand them as a person to enjoy their work. That’s when the real connection is made.”

The Wolf of Wall Street actor, dressed in plaid Marni suit over a Dr. Octagon T-shirt and Adidas sneakers, also spoke about his rise to become one of the poster boys for the “scumbro” look – a term describing a scruffy, no-fuss attitude to streetwear and personal grooming.

“I think terms like that are so funny. I would never identify as any sort of term,” he smiled. “Honestly I just don’t care. I wear s**t that I like and that’s it.”

To conclude the show, Adidas collaborator Pharrell Williams appeared at the end to congratulate the designers.

Elsewhere on Friday, Naomi, Kate Moss, and Robert Pattinson stepped out at the Dior presentation.

And on Saturday, Naomi was once again sitting front row, this time for Japanese designer Chitose Abe’s Sacai show.

She was joined by Pusha T, who confessed to being a big fan of Japanese culture: “I love Japan a lot. I’ve been going there for a very long time, since (label) BAPE’s fifth anniversary at least. (BAPE founder) Nigo introduced me to Japan, so it’s always been linked to him. Each trip is a different experience.”

While on Sunday, the likes of Courtney Love, Miles Kane, Virgil Abloh and Natalia Vodianova turned out for Hedi Slimane’s inaugural Celine menswear show.

“It’s an historic moment,” musician Kane told WWD.

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Celine to join Paris Fashion Week: Men’s schedule

Celine is set to join the Paris Fashion Week: Men’s schedule.Former Saint Laurent designer Hedi Slimane was named as the Paris-based house’s artistic director earlier in the year (18), succeeding Phoebe Philo, and unveiled his spring 19 collection for …

Celine is set to join the Paris Fashion Week: Men’s schedule.

Former Saint Laurent designer Hedi Slimane was named as the Paris-based house’s artistic director earlier in the year (18), succeeding Phoebe Philo, and unveiled his spring 19 collection for the brand in September.

Now, Slimane appears set to debut a new menswear collection in January, with a representative confirming to WWD that the presentation will take place during the event.

According to editors at the publication, a date for the show is yet to be confirmed, with brand executives currently in talks with officials at the Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. As Slimane selected to do a co-ed range in his debut collection, it is also possible that he will choose to include some womenswear pieces in his upcoming show.

Following the fashion star’s appointment to Celine, Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive officer of the brand’s parent company Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH), indicated that menswear would be a large focus for the label going forward.

“I am particularly happy that Hedi is back within the LVMH Group and taking the reins of our Celine Maison,” he said. “His arrival at Celine reinforces the great ambitions that LVMH has for this Maison. Hedi will oversee and develop all creativity for both women’s and men’s fashion, but also for leather goods, accessories and fragrances. He will leverage his global vision and unique aesthetic virtuosity in further building an iconic French Maison.”

Should Slimane, who is known for his rocker-inspired men’s garments and slim fit trousers, show in January, he will join the likes of Dior, Berluti and Louis Vuitton. In addition, Givenchy’s Clare Waight Keller recently announced that she will be showing her fall 19 collection during the event, with the runway spectacle to be held on 16 January.

“Granting menswear a dedicated platform starting from January reflects the house’s support of Clare Waight Keller’s vision for the brand,” a spokesperson commented.

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Givenchy returning to Paris Fashion Week: Men’s

Givenchy is returning to Paris Fashion Week: Men’s for fall 2019.The label has opted for coed shows ever since Clare Waight Keller was appointed artistic director in 2017, however, WWD has reported that it will be switching back to the men’s fashion ca…

Givenchy is returning to Paris Fashion Week: Men’s for fall 2019.

The label has opted for coed shows ever since Clare Waight Keller was appointed artistic director in 2017, however, WWD has reported that it will be switching back to the men’s fashion calendar next season.

Givenchy confirmed in a statement that the presentation is scheduled for 16 January (19).

“Granting menswear a dedicated platform starting from January reflects the house’s support of Clare Waight Keller’s vision for the brand,” a spokesperson added.

The British designer presented a gender-fluid offering for her spring 2019 collection inspired by Swiss writer Annemarie Schwarzenbach, and though she has now decided to offer separate displays of menswear and womenswear, the brand is adamant that men and women will still feature side by side in her ready-to-wear and haute couture shows.

Waight Keller’s campaigns for the French fashion house have portrayed both sexes in mirror-image pairs, and the decision to return to the men’s fashion calendar comes at a time where many brands are deciding to present women’s and men’s wear simultaneously.

Celine, in its first presentation under new artistic, creative and image director Hedi Slimane, and Maison Margiela both staged their first coed shows for spring 2019. Under Slimane, Celine has also introduced a new menswear category to the brand for the first time.

While Stella McCartney, Balenciaga, Haider Ackermann and Sonia Rykiel all featured models of both sexes on their catwalks during their Fashion Week shows.

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Nicolas Ghesquiere talks Hedi Slimane’s Celine debut

Nicolas Ghesquiere has shared his thoughts on Hedi Slimane’s controversial debut for Celine.The French designer succeeded Phoebe Philo at the fashion house, who served as creative director for a decade and was widely praised for her attention to the fe…

Nicolas Ghesquiere has shared his thoughts on Hedi Slimane’s controversial debut for Celine.

The French designer succeeded Phoebe Philo at the fashion house, who served as creative director for a decade and was widely praised for her attention to the female gaze and collections of laid-back, practical tailoring.

Slimane faced much criticism for the spring 2019 collection he presented during Paris Fashion Week in September (18), as his offering was far from Philo’s vision and more aligned to the rock ‘n’ roll aesthetic he championed during his tenure at Saint Laurent. However, Louis Vuitton head Ghesquiere has explained why he wasn’t surprised by Slimane’s decision.

“When you are the artistic director of a house, the most important thing is style and to have someone with a true vision and that does something that is very recognisable,” he said as part of the Metropolitan Museum of Art’s Atelier with Alina Cho conversation series, as reported by Fashionista. “I think this is the case with Hedi at Celine.”

Ghesquiere was joined on stage on Monday (22Oct18) by Grace Coddington, who recently teamed up with Louis Vuitton to create a cat-inspired collaboration set to launch next month.

Pieces from the collection were unveiled during the label’s cruise 2019 presentation, in which the label’s signature monogram pattern was jazzed up with illustrations of Coddington’s two cats, Pumpkin and Blanket, and Ghesquiere’s dog Leon.

“I’ve always admired the very personal style of Grace over the years,” he smiled. “She has this particular English taste, which is so eccentric.”

“To be sitting with him in his office with a table covered in handbags and to be discussing what we’re going to do with it and where we’re going to take it was fun and exciting,” Welsh fashion star Grace added.

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Hedi Slimane accuses critics of Celine debut of ‘latent homophobia’

Hedi Slimane has accused critics “latent homophobia”, after his Celine debut collection was panned by many fashion reviewers.The designer’s appointment at the French luxury brand has been met with some controversy, with fashion fans commenting the vast…

Hedi Slimane has accused critics “latent homophobia”, after his Celine debut collection was panned by many fashion reviewers.

The designer’s appointment at the French luxury brand has been met with some controversy, with fashion fans commenting the vast differences between the styles of Slimane, and his predecessor Phoebe Philo, who served as Celine’s creative director for a decade.

While Philo was noted for her attention to the female gaze and collections of laid-back, practical tailoring, Slimane’s work is famous for tight-fitting, leather-laden, rock ‘n’ roll garments – and critics were disappointed to see that Celine’s spring 2019 collection looked remarkably similar to his previous collections at Saint Laurent.

“It’s always very jarring and I always feel like people are talking about someone else. Besides, the spirit of the show was light and joyful, but lightness and insouciance are being called into question these days. I’ve already been through this at Saint Laurent,” he wrote in an email, as reported by Fashionista. “For some in America, I also have the poor taste of being a man who is succeeding a woman. You could read into that a subtext of latent homophobia that is quite surprising. Is a man drawing women’s collections an issue?”

The 50-year-old appeared to take particular issue with a piece written by Booth Moore for the Hollywood Reporter, titled: Is Hedi Slimane the Donald Trump of Fashion?

“Does this mean women are no longer free to wear miniskirts if they wish? The comparisons to Trump are opportunistic, rather bold and fairly comical, just because the young women in my show are liberated and carefree,” Slimane scoffed. “They are free to dress as they see fit.”

Highlights of Celine’s Paris Fashion Week presentation included sequinned mini dresses, leather jackets and biker boots.

On a positive note, Slimane expressed his pleasure over the “unexpected publicity” his debut received.

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Hedi Slimane opens up about his plans for Celine

Hedi Slimane has opened up about his plans for Celine in a rare interview.The French designer is considered to be one of the most original talents in the fashion industry, having previously overhauled the menswear department at Dior and acted as creati…

Hedi Slimane has opened up about his plans for Celine in a rare interview.

The French designer is considered to be one of the most original talents in the fashion industry, having previously overhauled the menswear department at Dior and acted as creative director for Yves Saint Laurent from 2012 until 2016.

Slimane was named as Paris-based house Celine’s artistic director in March (18), succeeding Phoebe Philo, and in a new chat, he explained that he is determined to respect the legacy of past designers while also making his own mark at the label.

“We don’t enter a fashion house to imitate our predecessor, much less to take over the essence of their work, their codes and elements of language,” he told French newspaper Le Figaro. “The goal is not to go the opposite way of their work either. It would be a misinterpretation. “Respect means preserving the integrity of each individual, recognising the things that belong to another person with honesty and discernment. It also means starting a new chapter.”

Slimane is due to unveil his highly-anticipated debut Celine line as part of Paris Fashion Week on Friday (28Sep18).

While he has remained tight-lipped about his collection, the designer commented that he has more creative freedom at the Paris-based company than he did in previous roles.

“At Celine, the weight of the past is not as heavy as it is at Dior or Saint Laurent. We can break free of it more easily. Celine is a vision of Paris, a way of being worn… I don’t want to lock it up in something. There’s no constraint, no model that is linked to a very important legacy. It’s more of a French idea than a cloakroom,” the 50-year-old said.

During the wide-ranging interview, Slimane also spoke about his controversial decision to remove the accent from above the first “E” in the updated Celine logo. He insisted that the branding revamp had nothing to do with “marking his territory”.

“There’s always reactions about the logos,” he smiled. “Nowadays it’s even more present due to the viral effect of social media. It’s normal. It was anticipated but it had to be done. The major houses are alive.”

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Hedi Slimane unveils new Celine logo

Hedi Slimane has unveiled a new logo for Celine.The French designer is considered to be one of the most original talents in the fashion industry, having previously overhauled the menswear department at Dior and acted as creative director for Yves Saint…

Hedi Slimane has unveiled a new logo for Celine.

The French designer is considered to be one of the most original talents in the fashion industry, having previously overhauled the menswear department at Dior and acted as creative director for Yves Saint Laurent from 2012 until 2016.

Slimane was named as Paris-based house Celine’s artistic director in March (18), succeeding Phoebe Philo, and the star announced on Monday (03Sep18) that he is introducing a new logo for the company.

“The new logo has been directly inspired by the original, historical version that existed in the 1960s,” a brand representative wrote on Instagram alongside the updated branding. “The modernist typography used dates from the 1930s. The spacing between the letters has been balanced out and the letters have been brought closer together. The 1960s version of the logo including the word ‘Paris’, will be reinstated within the clothing and on packaging, however ‘Paris’ will not appear beneath the logo on campaigns.”

Most intriguingly, Slimane, 50, has opted to remove the accent from above the first “E” in the word in order to give a “simplified and more balanced proportion”.

The designer explained that the accent was not always included in branding in the 1960s, however, the bold move has sparked a debate between fans of the company on social media.

“Already miss the accent, all of the sudden the level of chic sophistication feels like it has been drained from the logo,” one Instagram user wrote, while another added: “The new logo looks like a cheap knockoff Celine logo.”

But others were less bothered about the changes, with one person commenting that the new logo will better align with Slimane’s plans to add menswear to Celine’s offerings.

“The main reason is he needs to make Celine unisex. Don’t forget the menswear line he is going to introduce,” they commented.

Previously, Slimane made headlines around the world when he announced that Yves Saint Laurent’s ready-to-wear line would be rebranded as Saint Laurent, though the name and iconic YSL logo were retained for use on accessories.

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