Chanel presents ’80s-inspired couture

Chanel served up punk princess vibes for its new couture collection on Tuesday.Showing on the second day of digital Paris Couture Week, Virginie Viard presented a line full of punky party dresses, reimagined tweed looks and billowing ball gowns. Viard,…

Chanel served up punk princess vibes for its new couture collection on Tuesday.

Showing on the second day of digital Paris Couture Week, Virginie Viard presented a line full of punky party dresses, reimagined tweed looks and billowing ball gowns.

Viard, the successor of Chanel legend Karl Lagerfeld, explained how the late designer was at the forefront of her thoughts when she created the showstopping looks.

“I was thinking about a punk princess coming out of Le Palace at dawn. With a taffeta dress, big hair, feathers and lots of jewellery,” she wrote in the show notes. “This collection is more inspired by Karl Lagerfeld than Gabrielle Chanel. Karl would go to Le Palace, he would accompany these very sophisticated and very dressed up women, who were very eccentric too.”

The 30 designs are a world away from Chanel’s spring couture offerings, which had much sleeker and straighter silhouettes.

“I like working like this, going in the opposite direction of what I did last time. I wanted complexity, sophistication,” she said.

Standout looks from the fall collection include a sumptuous tiered, black, long-sleeved dress worn by Adut Akech which looked straight out of the ’80s, a floor-length dress in an opulent teal hue featuring dramatic sleeves, and a silver scalloped dress with a neat peplum.

“It’s an eccentric girl with a touch of the ’80s. I wanted something joyful,” Viard told WWD. “It makes me think of images I have of (Lagerfeld) with friends before I knew him, when he would often host balls, dinner and parties. People would really dress up.”

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LVMH launches Fund in Aid of Young Fashion Designers

LVMH is inviting previous Prize for Young Designers winners to apply for additional funding from the fashion conglomerate.The annual prizegiving usually sees one young designer scooping a top prize of $336,000 (£270,000) and a year-long mentorship fro…

LVMH is inviting previous Prize for Young Designers winners to apply for additional funding from the fashion conglomerate.

The annual prizegiving usually sees one young designer scooping a top prize of $336,000 (£270,000) and a year-long mentorship from LVHM, while the runner-up takes home the $168,000 (£135,000) Karl Lagerfeld Prize.

In April, the company revealed it was cancelling the final of the 2020 prize in light of Covid-19, deciding to instead share the prize money between all eight finalists, giving them $45,000 (£36,000) each.

Now, it has been revealed that the money from the Karl Lagerfeld Prize will go towards the Fund in Aid of Young Fashion Designers, which will be supplemented by additional prize budget money.

A total of 13 previous winners of both the main award and runners-up prizes will benefit from the help, upon application.

“Each fund request will be examined by the LVMH Prize team and appraised according to the situation, the difficulties encountered and the specific needs of each brand in the wake of Covid-19,” LVMH representatives said in a statement on Friday.

Executive vice president of Louis Vuitton, Delphine Arnault, who launched the prize in 2013, further elaborated on the new fund.

“In these challenging times, the mission of the LVMH Prize in support of young talent is more critical than ever. The Fund in Aid of Young Fashion Designers allows the winners to temporarily benefit from essential help in order to sustain their creativity and their brands,” Arnault said.

Previous winners include Grace Wales Bonner, Marques’Almeida, and Thomas Tait.

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Karl Lagerfeld teams up with Kenneth Ize for capsule collection

Karl Lagerfeld has teamed up with Kenneth Ize for a new capsule collection.The French fashion house will be partnering with the designer, who uses traditional West African fabrics and weaving in his colourful and unique pieces. “The breadth of Karl’s w…

Karl Lagerfeld has teamed up with Kenneth Ize for a new capsule collection.

The French fashion house will be partnering with the designer, who uses traditional West African fabrics and weaving in his colourful and unique pieces.

“The breadth of Karl’s work has been very inspiring to me, and it’s an honor to be working with his namesake maison,” Ize told WWD. “Our vision is to combine Karl’s Parisian-chic aesthetic with elements of traditional African artistry.”

The Nigerian-born designer was one of the finalists in the 2019 LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers, and went on to make his official Paris Fashion Week debut back in February, with supermodel Naomi Campbell closing the show.

“Kenneth shares Karl Lagerfeld’s vision for innovation, craftsmanship, quality and authenticity. We very much look forward to launching this capsule collection together,” said Karl Lagerfeld chief executive officer Pier Paolo Righi, who added that the fashion house would unveil further details about the collaboration in the next few months.

Ize uses a centuries-old weaving technique called aso oke for his intricate garments, and has collaborated with textile weavers and designers in Nigeria to create contemporary pieces, including trench coats, tunics, and shorts.

The Ize capsule collection will be available at select Karl Lagerfeld stores and at Karl.com only in April next year.

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Naomi Campbell took her own photo for new Essence magazine cover

Naomi Campbell took her own photo with an iPhone for the cover of Essence magazine’s 50th-anniversary issue.The British supermodel was due to take part in a traditional photoshoot as part of the celebrations for the publication’s special milestone, but…

Naomi Campbell took her own photo with an iPhone for the cover of Essence magazine’s 50th-anniversary issue.

The British supermodel was due to take part in a traditional photoshoot as part of the celebrations for the publication’s special milestone, but she was forced to become her own photographer when a lockdown was imposed in the U.S. to stop the spread of the Covid-19 virus.

Naomi did her own hair and make-up for the project, and also selected a range of designer pieces from her own wardrobe, including a crisp white Azzedine Alaia dress and a vintage Chloe by Karl Lagerfeld gown.

“It was a very special honour and unusual experience for me to be able to shoot and style my own cover for ESSENCE’s 50th-anniversary issue,” the 49-year-old said. “While it was a sad reminder for me of all the people in media and production who are not able to work due to the coronavirus, it also brought me hope and encouragement to know that our people and our infrastructures are resilient.”

The Essence cover photoshoot is the first in the publication’s history to be shot entirely on an iPhone. It also marks the first time that a cover star was her own photographer.

Chief content and creative officer MoAna Luu revealed that staging the unusual shoot required serious organisation, but she praised the fashion icon for her resilience and determination to get it right.

“We were on late-night calls trying to figure out how she was going to do the shoot with her phone in her hand. Then, we had to do a re-shoot because the photos didn’t come out how we imagined,” she explained. “Naomi did it all without asking any questions, she never quit. She’s been a pioneer in so many ways and now she’s a pioneer in Essence history because she’s completely and literally controlling her own narrative in this issue from the cover to the in-book story.”

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Andre Leon Talley promises new memoir will ‘astonish’ readers

Andre Leon Talley believes the stories in his upcoming memoir will “astonish” readers.The fashion journalist, who served as the editor-at-large at U.S. Vogue magazine from 1998 until 2013, is gearing up to release The Chiffon Trenches – a tell-all abou…

Andre Leon Talley believes the stories in his upcoming memoir will “astonish” readers.

The fashion journalist, who served as the editor-at-large at U.S. Vogue magazine from 1998 until 2013, is gearing up to release The Chiffon Trenches – a tell-all about his career in the fashion industry extending all the way back to his first job at Andy Warhol’s Interview magazine back in 1974.

While Talley’s book was originally set to debut in September, in light of renewed interest in his professional relationship with U.S. Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour in recent weeks, it will now begin hitting shelves on 19 May.

“As one of the great French literary writers, Jean Cocteau, said; ‘Astonish Me.’ I hope my new memoir, THE CHIFFON TRENCHES, will astonish all readers. I went into the deepest core of my being; my memory is intact,” he wrote in a post on his Instagram page. “It is a deeply personal story of a life well lived within the world of fashion, in all of its most glamorous and cutthroat moments. I have communed with the greats. And I am thrilled to announce the new publication date, by popular demand: May 19, 2020.”

The Chiffon Trenches is priced at $28 (£22) and is now available for pre-order.

According to the publishers at Penguin Random House, the memoir will explore Talley’s first jobs, professional relationships with key designers, including Karl Lagerfeld, Yves Saint Laurent, and Oscar de la Renta, as well as his “unlikely but intimate friendship” with Wintour at Vogue.

“The Chiffon Trenches offers a candid look at the who’s who of the last 50 years of fashion,” a summary reads. “At once ruthless and empathetic, this engaging memoir tells with raw honesty the story of how Andre not only survived the brutal style landscape but thrived – despite racism, illicit rumours, and all the other challenges of this notoriously cutthroat industry – to become one of the most renowned voices and faces in fashion.”

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LVMH Prize to be shared among all eight finalists

The 2020 LVMH Prize for Young Designers is to be shared among all eight finalists.Last month, organisers of the prestigious fashion contest announced that Peter Do, Supriya Lele, Priya Ahluwalia of Ahluwalia, Charaf Tajer of Casablanca, Nicholas Daley,…

The 2020 LVMH Prize for Young Designers is to be shared among all eight finalists.

Last month, organisers of the prestigious fashion contest announced that Peter Do, Supriya Lele, Priya Ahluwalia of Ahluwalia, Charaf Tajer of Casablanca, Nicholas Daley, Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena of womenswear brand Chopova Lowena, and Sindiso Khumalo were the designers left in the running for the award.

However, in light of the coronavirus crisis sweeping the world, executives at Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) have decided to cancel the final, originally scheduled for 5 June, and instead will name all of the finalists as winners. The $340,000 (£260,000) award will be distributed equally among the designers.

In addition, Delphine Arnault, executive vice president of Louis Vuitton, has unveiled plans to set up a fund in aid of young fashion designers, which will be supplemented by the 2020 Karl Lagerfeld Prize allocation. Designers and brands awarded the LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers and the Karl Lagerfeld Prize over the six previous editions will be eligible to apply for support.

“Since its launch, the LVMH Prize has promoted and nurtured young talent. Each year, it places the spotlight on young designers from all over the world and supports the development of their companies,” said Arnault. “In this challenging context, this fund in aid of young fashion designers highlights the main mission of the LVMH Prize by supporting our former winners.”

Details of the programme will be confirmed at a later date.

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Claudia Schiffer nearly had her own Hermes handbag

Claudia Schiffer once declined an offer to get her very own Hermes handbag.The German supermodel rose to fame in the early 1990s alongside Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, and Elle Macpherson, and over the years, has appeared in campaigns for the li…

Claudia Schiffer once declined an offer to get her very own Hermes handbag.

The German supermodel rose to fame in the early 1990s alongside Naomi Campbell, Christy Turlington, and Elle Macpherson, and over the years, has appeared in campaigns for the likes of Balmain, Bulgari, Michael Kors, and Prada.

But in an interview for the May 2020 issue of Elle magazine, Claudia recalled how her status as a top model led to her once being offered her very own luxury purse.

“Once Hermes offered for a handbag to be named after me and I thought, ‘No!'” she stated. “I don’t quite remember why now…'”

There are only two celebrities who have their own Hermes handbags; the famous Birkin tote is named after actress/singer Jane Birkin, while the Kelly bag was named after late American actress-turned-princess Grace Kelly.

Elsewhere in the chat, Claudia also remembered how she and other models were “showered” with gifts by brands and designers during their heyday.

“People normally showered you with everything, really. Particularly at Chanel. Karl (Lagerfeld) would say, ‘Go downstairs to the boutique and take whatever you want. You can take the entire collection – whatever,” the 49-year-old shared, before noting that she was always cautious about appearing greedy. “Where others may have taken advantage, I never felt I could. There’s a certain limit when someone says, ‘Choose what you want.’ You don’t literally choose everything there is.”

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Carine Roitfeld and Gigi Hadid pay tribute to late Karl Lagerfeld

Carine Roitfeld and Gigi Hadid have remembered Karl Lagerfeld on the first anniversary of his death.The German couturier, who oversaw Chanel, Fendi, and his own namesake brand, passed away at the age of 85 on 19 February 2019 from complications of panc…

Carine Roitfeld and Gigi Hadid have remembered Karl Lagerfeld on the first anniversary of his death.

The German couturier, who oversaw Chanel, Fendi, and his own namesake brand, passed away at the age of 85 on 19 February 2019 from complications of pancreatic cancer.

One year on, the fashion world continues to mourn Lagerfeld, with French editor Roitfeld leading the tributes on Wednesday.

“I miss you,” she simply captioned a black-and-white snap of herself and the iconic designer.

Hadid also posted a snap of herself at an event with Lagerfeld and wrote, “Karl (heart emoji) we miss you so much!”

The fashion star’s longtime Fendi colleague, Silvia Venturini Fendi, uploaded a happy image of them together too, along with the word, “Forever.”

Elsewhere, representatives for the Karl Lagerfeld brand shared a clip of him filming a TV advertisement in his signature black suit, white shirt, fingerless gloves, and sunglasses.

“THE REAL KARL. This enchanting behind-the-scenes footage has never been shared before. It reveals a side of Karl that few people saw – light-hearted, funny and sincere – as he unconsciously switches between French and German. Thank you, Karl, with love forever from your team,” they commented.

Others to share tributes on social media included model Ines de la Fressange, stylist Carlyne Cerf de Dudzeele, and Lagerfeld’s longtime friend Sebastien Jondeau.

Meanwhile, Christian Dior Beauty’s Peter Philips added: “One year already, can’t believe how fast time goes by. Missing those little moments, some are sharp some are blurry, but all of them are precious. Karl Lagerfeld, the great!”

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Margot Robbie instantly smitten by vintage Chanel outfit for 2020 Oscars

Margot Robbie settled upon her outfit for the 2020 Oscars back in December.The Australian actress, who was nominated at the awards on Sunday for her role in Bombshell, hit the red carpet in a vintage midnight blue chiffon bustier gown from Chanel, with…

Margot Robbie settled upon her outfit for the 2020 Oscars back in December.

The Australian actress, who was nominated at the awards on Sunday for her role in Bombshell, hit the red carpet in a vintage midnight blue chiffon bustier gown from Chanel, with the number featuring off-the-shoulder statement sleeves and a flowing skirt.

Margot, 29, and her stylist Kate Young were on the hunt for a pre-loved gown from the French fashion house last year, when they stumbled upon the intricate dress in the archives.

“We discovered this ’90s couture gown in Chanel’s archive back in December,” Kate told British Vogue, adding that the dress was a longer version of one that iconic supermodel Claudia Schiffer wore on the catwalk almost 26 years ago. “It’s very similar to the short dress that (Claudia) wore on Karl Lagerfeld’s spring/summer 1994 couture runway, but it was made for a client, so it’s truly unique. It just felt very Margot – it felt cool.”

And the process of borrowing from the Chanel archives made the experience a little bit more special for the pair.

“We know whose dress it was originally because Chanel keeps hand-written books. When I take a dress from the house’s couture archive for Margot to wear, we also have to write in the book who it is for and who is ordering it, which I just think is so cool,” the style guru shared. “For me, it underscores that really, really special clothes have a life that is long and romantic.”

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Karl Lagerfeld brand pledges to go fur-free

Executives at the Karl Lagerfeld fashion brand have banned fur following pressure from animal rights activists.In recent years, leaders at many top labels, including Burberry, Chanel, Prada, Gucci, Michael Kors, and Versace, have all pledged to ditch f…

Executives at the Karl Lagerfeld fashion brand have banned fur following pressure from animal rights activists.

In recent years, leaders at many top labels, including Burberry, Chanel, Prada, Gucci, Michael Kors, and Versace, have all pledged to ditch fur products.

Now, bosses at AM Retail Group, which operates Karl Lagerfeld Paris, Wilsons Leather, and other brands, and its parent company, G-III Apparel Group, have also banned fur.

In a statement, People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals (PETA) director Elisa Allen praised the team at Karl Lagerfeld and AM Retail Group for taking a stand.

“PETA applauds these companies for their compassionate and business-savvy decisions, which show that fur is out and kindness is in,” she said. “Ethical shoppers simply don’t want animals to be abused and killed for coats, collars, and cuffs, and these fur bans are proof that the fashion industry is changing to meet the rising demand for luxury animal-friendly alternatives.”

Allen added that she would be sending the companies vegan chocolates in thanks for their decisions.

Representatives for the Karl Lagerfeld label and its parent company have not yet commented on the news.

Fashion icon Lagerfeld, who died at the age of 85 in February, had a long history with animal rights activists. In an interview with BBC Radio 4 in 2009, the Chanel creative director argued there was no point in ditching fur products when people continued to eat meat.

“As long as you wear leather and eat meat, don’t discuss that,” he said. “In a meat-eating world, wearing leather for shoes and even clothes and handbags, the discussion of fur is childish.”

However, in December 2018, a spokesperson for Chanel confirmed the luxury brand would no longer use fur or exotic skins.

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