Jonathan Anderson warns of rocky future for fashion

Jonathan Anderson has warned it will be “survival of the fittest” in the fashion industry following the Covid-19 pandemic.The JW Anderson founder has been forced to make drastic changes following the Covid-19 pandemic. Although lockdown may be easing i…

Jonathan Anderson has warned it will be “survival of the fittest” in the fashion industry following the Covid-19 pandemic.

The JW Anderson founder has been forced to make drastic changes following the Covid-19 pandemic. Although lockdown may be easing in some parts of the world, the designer insists there are tough times ahead.

“It’s going to be a rocky two years,” Anderson said in an interview with WWD when asked about the future of his brand. “If we think this is going to change by Christmas we are kidding ourselves. I’m more concerned about what the fallout is going to be, the geopolitical, the financial fallout. It’s going to be survival of the fittest – and you have leave your ego at the door.”

Anderson had to shut his London store just days after it opened in March and has been designing collections at home while devising new ways to showcase his designs. But he isn’t afraid to roll up his sleeves to get results.

“There has been disaster out there, but why shy away from trying to continue? It’s about supporting each other, about being humble and letting things roll,” he explained.

When it came to the usual show season period, rather than give up and accept defeat, Anderson told himself, “I’m not going to not do something.”

Anderson designed the JW Anderson collections at home on mannequins, and brainstormed a new socially-distanced way to showcase his looks – by using innovative hologram technology.

JW Anderson partnered with augmented reality startup HoloMe to generate holograms of models wearing the collections, which could be streamed anywhere in the world. High-definition images of the looks were made available via an app so they could be photographed or filmed by buyers.

Anderson also created boxes filled with images from his men’s spring and resort 2021 collections, along with fabric swatches, pressed flowers and cards bearing motivational messages such as ‘Never Compromise’ for press. Anderson is planning another ‘show in a box’ concept for his new LOEWE collections.

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Loewe supporting Spanish charities amid coronavirus pandemic

Bosses at Loewe have pledged assistance to several institutions amid the coronavirus crisis.Chief executive officer Pascale Lepoivre and artistic director Jonathan Anderson took to Instagram on Monday to post a joint update in which they outlined the S…

Bosses at Loewe have pledged assistance to several institutions amid the coronavirus crisis.

Chief executive officer Pascale Lepoivre and artistic director Jonathan Anderson took to Instagram on Monday to post a joint update in which they outlined the Spanish luxury company’s upcoming contributions.

Leading with the sentiment that “children are joy and deserve joy”, the pair promised to give $43 (£34) to educational projects for every product sold from the Paula’s Ibiza collection sold between May and August, with an initial donation totalling $541,000 (£438,000).

In addition, the team at Loewe will work with officials at Plataforma de Infancia – a Spanish alliance of social organisations that protects children and adolescents’ rights – to create educational programmes over the summer, in a bid to reduce inequality and school dropouts. They are also donating 100,000 surgical masks to the Spanish Red Cross and are planning to soon begin producing non-surgical face masks. The masks, which are below hospital-grade, will be distributed to volunteer workers, employees, and their families.

Spain has been ravaged by the coronavirus crisis, with over 200,000 confirmed cases and an estimated 20,000 fatalities.

With its philanthropic efforts, Loewe joins a growing number of fashion houses uniting against the pandemic. Owned by conglomerate LVMH Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH), the brand’s sister companies, including Louis Vuitton and Dior, are already producing face masks at their respective factories. LVMH has also leveraged its supply chains to order 40 million masks from China to be sent to France, another country heavily hit by the Covid-19 virus.

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Jonathan Anderson tapped to create Moncler Genius line

Jonathan Anderson has been added to Moncler Genius’ roster of designers.The designer, who serves as creative director of his own label JW Anderson and Spanish fashion house Loewe, is to create garments for the lifestyle brand’s annual drop of capsule c…

Jonathan Anderson has been added to Moncler Genius’ roster of designers.

The designer, who serves as creative director of his own label JW Anderson and Spanish fashion house Loewe, is to create garments for the lifestyle brand’s annual drop of capsule collections.

“The Moncler Genius creative hub evolves and announces its 2020 line-up welcoming JW Anderson with his arrestingly clever vision of gender-defying fashion,” a Moncler representative said. “The Northern Irish designer brings a unique design aesthetic that offers a modern interpretation of masculinity and femininity through a cross-pollination of menswear and womenswear.”

Anderson will be joining Sergio Zambon and Veronica Leoni for 2 Moncler 1952, Sandro Mandrino for 3 Moncler Grenoble, Simone Rocha, Craig Green, Matthew Williams of 1017 ALYX 9SM, Fragment Hiroshi Fujiwara, Richard Quinn, and Poldo Dog Couture, in working with the company.

In addition, designers at Moncler are collaborating with the team at luggage brand Rimowa on a “bold new travel concept”.

Moncler chief executive officer Remo Ruffini has achieved great success with the guest designer model, which was first introduced three years ago, with company leaders thrilled with the ongoing interest.

“The values are solid and the shapes change constantly. It is a place where contemporary shapers of culture belonging to the world beyond Moncler are invited, in order to have other points of view on what the house stands for. Rapidity is the key,” they added. “The needs and the tastes of contemporary customers change at lightning speed. Fashion itself endlessly changes and morphs: Moncler Genius is a seismographer, and this is why it is always in flux.”

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Megan Rapinoe lands Loewe campaign

Soccer star Megan Rapinoe has been tapped to star in Loewe’s fall/winter 2020 campaign.The sportswoman, who captains Reign FC in the National Women’s Soccer League and the U.S. women’s team, is appearing in the latest marketing imagery for the Spanish …

Soccer star Megan Rapinoe has been tapped to star in Loewe’s fall/winter 2020 campaign.

The sportswoman, who captains Reign FC in the National Women’s Soccer League and the U.S. women’s team, is appearing in the latest marketing imagery for the Spanish fashion label.

Photographed by Steven Meisel and creative directed by designer Jonathan Anderson, the debut image from the For Real advertising depicts a violet-haired Rapinoe making a face at the camera.

“Rapinoe’s trademark pink hair is highlighted by the solidity of the cobalt blue background,” a brand rep captioned a snap on Instagram. “Her eyes are grinning, the tongue peeks a boo between the teeth, mimicking the soccer player’s signature expression when she wins. Across the whole campaign, distortion comes across as a synonym of life, movement, and energy.”

In an accompanying series of short films directed by Benn Northover, Rapinoe is seen asking the viewer to confront their truth.

“We have to talk about everything. We have to speak out the truth and not be afraid of it. Find it, live it, be it!” the 34-year-old declared.

And accordingly, Rapinoe is excited to have landed her very first fashion gig.

“I am so thrilled about this partnership with Loewe and Jonathan Anderson. Multiple worlds crashing together, creating something bigger, different, and more exciting than either could alone,” she commented. “To me, the goal of collaboration should not be to stand next to one another, but rather become something else, together.”

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Loewe apologises for outfit resembling concentration camp uniform

Executives at Loewe have issued an apology following backlash over an outfit that resembled a concentration camp uniform.Earlier this month, Jonathan Anderson, creative director of the Spanish heritage fashion house, unveiled a collection of clothing a…

Executives at Loewe have issued an apology following backlash over an outfit that resembled a concentration camp uniform.

Earlier this month, Jonathan Anderson, creative director of the Spanish heritage fashion house, unveiled a collection of clothing and accessories influenced by the work of British ceramicist William De Morgan.

However, social media users quickly noticed an image of a suit with black and white vertical stripes and a prominent chest patch within the collection and noted that the item was similar to camp uniforms worn by victims during the Holocaust in World War II.

In response, a Loewe spokesperson apologised for any upset caused by the garments, which have been removed from sale.

“It was brought to our attention that one of our looks featured in a magazine and part of our Arts and Crafts ceramicist William De Morgan could be misconstrued as referring to one of the most odious moments in the history of mankind,” they said. “It was absolutely never our intention and we apologise to anyone who might feel we were insensitive to sacred memories. The products featured have been removed from our commercial offering.”

Other items in the De Morgan-inspired collection included coats, bags, oversized scarves, and knitwear. Garments are priced from $322 – 7,599 (£250 – £5,900).

Loewe is not the first fashion company to be criticised for selling clothing that resembled garments worn by World War II victims. In 2014, bosses at high street label Zara apologised for selling a shirt with a six-pointed yellow star on the chest designed for toddler boys that were described as a “striped sheriff T-shirt,” while in August 2017, Miu Miu executives pulled all garments from the fall/winter 2017 collection that featured five-pointed stars with men’s names embroidered them.

Critics indicated that both items resembled the six-pointed Star of David that Jewish people were forced to wear during the Holocaust.

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Loewe releases collection inspired by ceramicist William De Morgan

Loewe has unveiled a collection influenced by the work of British ceramicist William De Morgan.Jonathan Anderson, creative director of the Spanish heritage fashion house, took to Instagram on Monday morning to announce the launch of the capsule line, w…

Loewe has unveiled a collection influenced by the work of British ceramicist William De Morgan.

Jonathan Anderson, creative director of the Spanish heritage fashion house, took to Instagram on Monday morning to announce the launch of the capsule line, which includes both ready-to-wear items and accessories.

“The work of British ceramicist William De Morgan is celebrated in Loewe’s new capsule collection conceived as a world of colour, texture and playful imagination. De Morgan was renowned for his Arts and Crafts tile designs. Now, his fantastic creatures and floral arabesques are celebrated in LOEWE’s capsule collection of ready-to-wear, accessories and charms for both men and women,” he wrote alongside a campaign image. “Certain details are enlarged on coats and bags, while others are hand-stitched onto oversized scarves and knitwear. Some garments, such as a woollen dragon’s tail, or a horned knitted beanie, remake the wearer as a monster themselves. This is a collection in which the imagination is set free, and the magical is blended with the everyday.”

The campaign was shot by Craig McDean and styled by Benjamin Bruno. Models including Jamily Wernke Meurer and Marcel Korusiewicz feature in the images.

The William De Morgan capsule collection will be available to purchase from 14 November. Prices have not been announced.

And it appears the initial reaction to the concept is overwhelmingly positive, with fashion critic Tim Blanks commenting, “SUBLIME!!!!!!!” on Instagram, and model Liya Kebede adding: “So good.”

De Morgan was known for his intricate tiles, stained glass, and furniture, with his designs often based on Medieval or Islamic patterns. He died at the age of 77 in 1917.

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Off-White tops The Lyst Index’s rankings of hottest brands

Off-White has been crowned as the hottest brand in the world in The Lyst Index’s latest rankings.The label, founded by designer Virgil Abloh in 2012, is known for its stylised streetwear-inspired items which feature the use of quotation marks, zip ties…

Off-White has been crowned as the hottest brand in the world in The Lyst Index’s latest rankings.

The label, founded by designer Virgil Abloh in 2012, is known for its stylised streetwear-inspired items which feature the use of quotation marks, zip ties, and industrial buckles, with celebrity fans including Kendall Jenner, Bella Hadid, Hailey Bieber, JAY-Z, Nicki Minaj, and Rihanna.

Now, researchers have compiled data from the fashion platform Lyst for the third quarter of 2019 and claimed Off-White has come out on top in relation to global Lyst and Google search data, conversion rates and sales, as well as brand and product social media mentions and engagement statistics worldwide.

Balenciaga, helmed by creative director Demna Gvasalia, was the runner-up, while Gucci fell back two spots in comparison to last quarter and landed in third place.

Other luxury brands in the top 10 included Versace, Prada, Valentino, Fendi, Burberry, Saint Laurent, and Vetements, while notable additions to the top 20 this quarter were Bottega Veneta and Loewe.

Since Daniel Lee joined Bottega Veneta in June 2018, the Italian fashion house has undergone a huge revamp, with the designer winning acclaim for his minimalist designs and Stretch sandals, which immediately sold out upon release following the launch of the label’s pre-fall 2019 collection.

“Daniel Lee has brought incredible energy to the evolution of Bottega Veneta and the reaction has been extraordinary,” Dario Gargiulo, chief marketing officer of Bottega Veneta, said of the brand’s transformation. “Free from any desire to become the hottest brand in the world, our focus is on the beauty and power of subtlety. We forego extensive explanation about our brand in favour of simply being visible and present across the current multicultural landscape.”

Among the most popular products were Bottega Veneta’s padded sandals, Adidas Continental 80 sneakers, Jacquemus’ pocket-sized Le Chiquito bag, Paco Rabanne’s reissued 1969 metal shoulder bag, Fendi’s FF motif bikini, and Mansur Gavriel’s cloud print sweater.

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Bottega Veneta’s Daniel Lee leads 2019 The Fashion Awards nominees

Bottega Veneta’s Daniel Lee has garnered nods in four categories for the upcoming 2019 The Fashion Awards.The British designer was named as creative director for the Italian fashion house in June 2018 and has since gone on to win acclaim for his minima…

Bottega Veneta’s Daniel Lee has garnered nods in four categories for the upcoming 2019 The Fashion Awards.

The British designer was named as creative director for the Italian fashion house in June 2018 and has since gone on to win acclaim for his minimalist designs and Stretch sandals, which immediately sold out upon release following the launch of the label’s pre-fall 2019 collection.

Now, Lee is set to be the one to beat at the annual fashion awards ceremony, having been nominated for Accessories Designer of the Year, British Designer of the Year: Womenswear, and Designer of the Year, while Bottega Veneta is among the Brand of the Year nominees.

Other fashion stars to be nominated in more than one category included Gucci creative director Alessandro Michele and Jonathan Anderson, who heads up Spanish brand Loewe as well as his own label, JW Anderson. Dior Men’s Kim Jones and Prada’s Miuccia Prada are also vying for the prestigious Designer of the Year prize.

Joining Lee in the British Designer of the Year: Womenswear category are John Galliano for Maison Margiela, Anderson, Richard Quinn, and Simone Rocha, while the British Designer of the Year: Menswear nominees include Craig Green, Grace Wales Bonner for Wales Bonner, Jones, Martine Rose, and Riccardo Tisci for Burberry.

Top models Adesuwa Aighewi, Adut Akech, Adwoa Aboah, Kaia Gerber, and Winnie Harlow are competing for the Model of the Year prize, while it was previously announced that Giorgio Armani will be bestowed with the Outstanding Achievement Award and Naomi Campbell will take home the Fashion Icon Award.

British Fashion Council chair, Stephanie Phair, commented of the nominees: “Each and every one of them is being recognised for their creative excellence and innovation. I look forward to celebrating them alongside the rest of the industry from across the globe.”

The Fashion Awards 2019 will take place on 2 December at the Royal Albert Hall in London. The full list of nominees is as follows:

Accessories Designer of the Year:

Alessandro Michele for Gucci

Daniel Lee for Bottega Veneta

Jonathan Anderson for Loewe

Kim Jones for Dior Men

Simon Porte Jacquemus for Jacquemus

Brand of the Year:

Bottega Veneta

Gucci

Jacquemus

Loewe

Prada

British Designer of the Year: Menswear:

Craig Green for Craig Green

Grace Wales Bonner for Wales Bonner

Kim Jones for Dior Men

Martine Rose for Martine Rose

Riccardo Tisci for Burberry

British Designer of the Year: Womenswear:

Daniel Lee for Bottega Veneta

John Galliano for Maison Margiela

Jonathan Anderson for JW Anderson & Loewe

Richard Quinn for Richard Quinn

Simone Rocha for Simone Rocha

British Emerging Talent: Menswear:

Ben Cottrell and Matthew Dainty for Cottweiler

Bethany Williams for Bethany Williams

Kiko Kostadinov for Kiko Kostadinov

Phoebe English for Phoebe English

Sofia Prantera for Aries

British Emerging Talent: Womenswear:

Laura and Deanna Fanning for Kiko Kostadinov

Matty Bovan for Matty Bovan

Phoebe English for Phoebe English

Rejina Pyo for Rejina Pyo

Rosh Mahtani for Alighieri

Business Leader:

Alexandre Arnault for Rimowa

Jose Neves for Farfetch

Marco Bizzarri for Gucci

Marco Gobbetti for Burberry

Remo Ruffini for Moncler

Designer of the Year:

Alessandro Michele for Gucci

Daniel Lee for Bottega Veneta

Jonathan Anderson for JW Anderson & Loewe

Kim Jones for Dior Men

Miuccia Prada for Prada

Model of the Year:

Adesuwa Aighewi

Adut Akech

Adwoa Aboah

Kaia Gerber

Winnie Harlow

Urban Luxe:

Alyx

Fenty

Marine Serre

Martine Rose

Moncler Genius

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Jodie Comer ‘honoured’ to front Loewe’s spring 2020 campaign

Jodie Comer is “honoured” to be the face of the latest Loewe campaign.Fresh off her win at the 2019 Emmy Awards, the Killing Eve actress has been tapped by bosses at the Spanish fashion house to front the spring/summer 2020 campaign, and also features …

Jodie Comer is “honoured” to be the face of the latest Loewe campaign.

Fresh off her win at the 2019 Emmy Awards, the Killing Eve actress has been tapped by bosses at the Spanish fashion house to front the spring/summer 2020 campaign, and also features in an accompanying short film by Loewe’s creative director Jonathan Anderson and photographer Steven Meisel.

During the two-minute clip, Comer laughs, cries, and shouts the word “Loewe” while getting ready in her dressing room mirror.

“Jonathan and his work are so incredibly distinctive. It’s inspiring to work alongside someone who pushes boundaries and creates in the way that he does,” she commented. “I feel the spring/summer 2020 collection really accentuates and celebrates femininity, which is a complete reflection of my experience shooting the campaign. To have had the opportunity to work with Steven Meisel and to have been supported and encouraged in the way that I was, is something I am extremely grateful for and will never forget.”

Comer later took to Instagram and shared the campaign video, alongside a touching caption.

“I am so honoured to be a part of the @loewe campaign for spring/summer 2020. Thank you from the bottom of my heart to the incredible team of creatives who welcomed me and made this such an unforgettable moment,” the 26-year-old gushed.

Anderson also lavished praise on his leading lady and noted that the British star was “exceptionally talented” and “incredibly inspiring”.

As well as the short film, Meisel has created an image for spring/summer 2020 campaign which features a picture of neon slime oozing through a model’s manicured fingers and a still life image displaying Loewe’s new Lazo mini bags.

Loewe’s womenswear show will debut as part of Paris Fashion Week on Friday.

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Charlie Heaton tapped to star in Loewe campaign

Stranger Things star Charlie Heaton is fronting the sultry new campaign for Loewe.Creative director Jonathan Anderson’s latest menswear campaign for spring/summer 2020 features the actor in three images captured by legendary fashion photographer, Steve…

Stranger Things star Charlie Heaton is fronting the sultry new campaign for Loewe.

Creative director Jonathan Anderson’s latest menswear campaign for spring/summer 2020 features the actor in three images captured by legendary fashion photographer, Steven Meisel.

In anticipation of the upcoming third season of Stranger Things debuting on 4 July, Anderson tapped Heaton to front the campaign, collaborating with stylist Benjamin Bruno and design agency M/M Paris for the images.

The first shot shows the British star looking into a mirror and gazing at his own reflection, with his hair messy and lips smeared with Pat McGrath lipstick, with Anderson explaining that the snap is meant to evoke “a moment of introspection before going on stage”.

Wearing an ankle-length white tank top and cotton poplin shorts, the designer also hinted that the image references the “ambiguity” of Heaton’s character.

The second photo shot by Meisel showcases the 25-year-old’s tattoo-covered hand, holding a pile of dirt in an image from the photographer’s upcoming showcase, A Show of Hands.

According to Loewe’s Instagram post, which shared all three shots, it is “a symbol of protest for today’s turbulent times.”

The third and final shot is a still life photograph of Loewe’s new spring/summer 2020 Grand Puzzle Bag, which features rugby stripes as a sweet tribute to Anderson’s family background in the sport.

Heaton, who plays Jonathan Byers in the Netflix series, will next be seen wearing pieces from the show’s new collaboration with high-street label, H&M.

The Swedish retailer enlisted Heaton’s co-star, actor Dacre Montgomery, to model some of the new garments in images released earlier this month.

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