Anna Wintour excited for changes to fashion industry

Anna Wintour is excited to see how the fashion industry responds to new challenges posed by the coronavirus crisis.In an opinion piece published on Vogue.com on Monday, the U.S. magazine’s editor-in-chief marked the Covid-19 pandemic as a catalyst for …

Anna Wintour is excited to see how the fashion industry responds to new challenges posed by the coronavirus crisis.

In an opinion piece published on Vogue.com on Monday, the U.S. magazine’s editor-in-chief marked the Covid-19 pandemic as a catalyst for much-needed change in the industry, with her writing, “Fashion has talked about change for years and now it finally is changing”.

Despite her sadness for those affected, Wintour is glad the virus has forced people to adapt accordingly and is making fashion designers ask themselves questions such as: “How will new collections emerge? How will they be shown? Not in the old ways, and I for one am excited about that.”

She cited a recent episode of Vogue’s Global Conversations, a live video chat discussion among designers such as Kerby Jean-Raymond of Pyer Moss, Simon Porte Jacquemus, Marni’s Francesco Risso, and John Galliano of Maison Margiela and praised them for “thinking about the future in radical ways.”

One designer who earned Wintour’s particular admiration was Giorgio Armani, who has relocated the presentation of his couture collection from Paris this summer to Milan in January 2021.

Applauding the move, Wintour wrote: “What a benefit to Milan, which has been hit hard by this pandemic, and what a positive model for the industry in that Armani’s collection will be seasonless, reflecting Giorgio’s important statement that fashion must respond to this crisis by making less, and creating more long-lasting designs. I applaud what he’s doing and know that others in fashion are watching these developments closely.”

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Christian Louboutin loved working with ‘very specific’ Blake Lively for 2018 Met Gala

Christian Louboutin loved working with Blake Lively in the lead-up to the 2018 Met Gala despite her “very specific” requests.In a new interview with Footwear News, the Frenchman opened up about his favourite moments from the prestigious annual fashion …

Christian Louboutin loved working with Blake Lively in the lead-up to the 2018 Met Gala despite her “very specific” requests.

In a new interview with Footwear News, the Frenchman opened up about his favourite moments from the prestigious annual fashion event, and said that the Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination-themed bash was at the top of his list.

Louboutin worked with the Gossip Girl star, and his longtime friend, as he created footwear to tie in with her show-stopping ornate gold and burgundy Atelier Versace gown.

He even accompanied Blake on the red carpet as her date for the evening, and told the publication that he thoroughly enjoyed preparing for the big night.

“It was a very fun preparation. Blake was really into it,” he recalled. “The dress was really big, so the whole preparation was a lot of fun.”

Louboutin designed two pairs of heeled pumps, with one decorated with passementerie, an intricate style of elaborate trim work, which he created to the actress’s exact requirements.

“(It was) a peep-toe sandal with three layers of different, successive layers of small platforms, which I adorned in a different way every time,” the 57-year-old explained. “(They were) exactly she wanted. She’s very specific. At the end, she was really incredible.”

He also designed Rihanna’s glittering pumps for that year’s Met Gala, which the Umbrella hitmaker teamed with her infamous papal-inspired outfit by Maison Margiela.

“There was so much effort, especially that year, and it was linked to something that I like,” he added. “It was a vision of a very baroque idea of religion… really extravagant in a religious way, which you barely see in reality. It was something out of an incredible movie.”

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Maison Margiela explores slow fashion with fall 20 collection

Maison Margiela has explored the meaning of slow fashion with its fall/winter 2020 collection.Creative director John Galliano, who renewed his contract with the luxury label last year, unveiled his latest line as part of Paris Fashion Week on Wednesday…

Maison Margiela has explored the meaning of slow fashion with its fall/winter 2020 collection.

Creative director John Galliano, who renewed his contract with the luxury label last year, unveiled his latest line as part of Paris Fashion Week on Wednesday.

Prior to the release of the co-ed range, the designer recorded a piece for his The Memory Of… podcast in which he explained that he would be introducing a new version of brand founder Margiela’s Replica concept from a 1994 collection, to be known as Recicla. Handpicking items from vintage boutiques and sourcing offcuts from luxury manufacturers, Galliano has restored and re-appropriated them as limited-edition garments or accessories.

“It’s slower fashion, it’s all those things that we believe in and that you can give something another life, longevity, and it’s also buying with a conscience,” the 59-year-old shared. “Recicla is really about recycling and upscaling, and the joy that we will be able to sell these pieces amongst the rest of the collection just thrills me. I think it’s really exciting, because it’s a real thing. It’s handpicked by J.G. I feel it fits in with the story or has been part of the narrative.

“One thing that’s been really thrilling is to have the courage, myself and the team, to explore charity shop finds, just as a quick way to kind of start exercising a concept or something where we can really feel quite free and play with these finds. It’s a learning process – it’s a process!”

During the show, Galliano’s Recicla concept was apparent in the inclusion of a red vintage coat folded into itself with bow detailing, a black chiffon top made with repurposed turquoise silk cashmere, as well as in new versions of the popular leather 5AC bag.

Other highlights included deconstructed coats, patchwork-like jackets, tulle dresses, and updated takes on the label’s iconic Tabi shoes.

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John Galliano renews Maison Margiela contract

John Galliano will continue to serve as the creative director of fashion house Maison Margiela.The designer joined the Paris-based brand in October 2014 and has since gone on to build up a reputation for his avant-garde garments and deconstructed coats…

John Galliano will continue to serve as the creative director of fashion house Maison Margiela.

The designer joined the Paris-based brand in October 2014 and has since gone on to build up a reputation for his avant-garde garments and deconstructed coats.

Now, Galliano has confirmed he will be extending his contract with the label.

“I am super excited for this new chapter and grateful to Renzo (Rosso) for his belief in me and the vision for Maison Margiela,” he said in a statement.

While Renzo Rosso, president of Maison Margiela’s parent company, OTB group, added that he was impressed with the way Galliano had been steering the brand and believed it is now “the coolest cutting-edge couture house”.

“Five years ago, I believed that John was the only person who could take this house in his hands, and I am even more convinced of this today. John’s undisputed talent is only matched by his understanding of today’s generations, their way of thinking, their struggles, their dreams. And he is doing exactly what this Maison always did at its best – disrupt, innovate and inspire,” the executive praised.

Rosso added that Galliano has doubled the revenues at Maison Margiela since his arrival.

In particular, the 58-year-old has found success with his bag and sneakers, with the accessories business now equating to 60 per cent of total sales. And he is looking forward to seeing how new fragrance Mutiny, developed in conjunction with licensing partner L’Oreal, does in the coming months.

Previously, Galliano worked in senior roles at Givenchy, Christian Dior, and his own namesake label. But in 2011, he was dismissed from Dior after he was found guilty of making anti-Semitic remarks and sentenced to pay a total of $6,700 (£5,100) in suspended fines. Designer Bill Gaytten replaced him as creative director at the Galliano label.

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Rihanna names John Galliano as her dream wedding dress designer

Rihanna wants John Galliano to design her wedding dress if she ever gets married.The superstar appears on the November 2019 cover of U.S. Vogue, and in the accompanying article, revealed she is in a “committed relationship”. While Rihanna did not shar…

Rihanna wants John Galliano to design her wedding dress if she ever gets married.

The superstar appears on the November 2019 cover of U.S. Vogue, and in the accompanying article, revealed she is in a “committed relationship”.

While Rihanna did not share if she is planning to tie the knot with her boyfriend, believed to be Saudi businessman Hassan Jameel, she did share that she would love for Maison Margiela creative director Galliano to make her a gown if she does decide to wed.

“It would probably be a collaboration between myself and Galliano,” she told U.S. Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour in a video for her Go Ask Anna series when questioned on the topic.

The singer also divulged that she would like to be a mother one day.

“I don’t think about stuff like that, but God’s plan, but I look forward to all of the pregnancy rumours after this interview,” the 31-year-old smiled.

Rihanna previously wore a papal-inspired Galliano number to the 2018 Met Gala, which celebrated the exhibit, Heavenly Bodies: Fashion and the Catholic Imagination.

And elsewhere in the chat, the Diamonds singer confirmed she would be in attendance at the 2020 Met Gala after skipping this year’s event.

“You promised me you would be back next year, and when we’re off-camera, I’m going to tell you the theme,” Wintour told the star. “You’re gonna love it.”

Rihanna and Hassan, who have been linked romantically since 2017, have been spotted on several dates, including a recent night out in Santa Monica, California.

Her Ocean’s Eight co-star Sarah Paulson also asked Rihanna about her marriage plans during a chat for Interview magazine in June, to which she responded, “Only God knows that, girl. We plan and God laughs, right?”

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Anna Wintour amused by Maison Margiela model’s dramatic runway walk

Anna Wintour was amused by a Maison Margiela model’s dramatic walk at the label’s show on Wednesday.During the French luxury fashion house’s spring/summer 2020 show at Paris Fashion Week, Leon Dame took to the catwalk wearing a black belted leather coa…

Anna Wintour was amused by a Maison Margiela model’s dramatic walk at the label’s show on Wednesday.

During the French luxury fashion house’s spring/summer 2020 show at Paris Fashion Week, Leon Dame took to the catwalk wearing a black belted leather coat, a neck scarf, black knee-high boots, and a structured hat designed by creative director John Galliano.

However, the model was the centre of attention as he stomped down the silver runway while staring at audience members perched on the front row.

Influencer Aimee Song, who was sat opposite the 69-year-old Vogue editor-in-chief, shared two videos on her Instagram Stories which showed Wintour giggling at Dame’s unconventional walk.

“Anna approves,” Song wrote.

Mad Men star January Jones also shared a clip of the unusual catwalk strut and wrote: “How I walk out of a room when someone says I can’t do something.”

Galliano’s show was seemingly inspired by World War I and II, as it featured cadet hats, nurse aprons, army jackets, military green, and cargo material.

The designer released a podcast on Spotify to accompany the show, during which he revealed that the spring/summer 2020 line was about hope, remembrance, and liberation.

Galliano said the pieces were influenced by those who fought for freedom and noted that he wanted to pay tribute to the soldiers and nurses with his collection in protest of the current “breakdown of the moral fibre of society” and the “trivialisation of democracy” as Brexit looms over the U.K. and Europe.

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Givenchy serves up feathers and dramatic tulle for fall 19 couture line

Givenchy has dished up a dramatic couture line comprised of lots of feathers and tulle for fall/winter 2019.The French luxury fashion house, headed by creative director Clare Waight Keller, unveiled the Noblesse Radicale collection at the Musee des Art…

Givenchy has dished up a dramatic couture line comprised of lots of feathers and tulle for fall/winter 2019.

The French luxury fashion house, headed by creative director Clare Waight Keller, unveiled the Noblesse Radicale collection at the Musee des Arts decoratifs as part of Paris Couture Week late on Tuesday night.

Regarding the range, Waight Keller explained in an interview backstage with Vogue.com that she wanted to evoke a rebellious spirit while still remaining true to the classic elegance championed by brand founder Hubert de Givenchy.

“I wanted to step it up a notch for myself, to push it into something that has a little more theatre,” the designer commented. “It’s the idea of an anarchic woman who comes through the chateau and all of the elements of what you’d find there. I like the idea that the chateau wasn’t perfect. It was part of the way I discovered the spirit and the girl of this show.”

A model opened the presentation in a black and white ensemble with curved shoulders and frayed fabric on the skirt, and a parade of monochromatic numbers followed, including the Jonchet design, a long jacket studded with feathers on the lower half, and striped gown entirely covered in feathers.

Waight Keller introduced colour via the addition of a white and coral pink silk ruched gown with off-the-shoulder neckline, a baby pink silk gown with matching black cape, a lilac coat dress, and a silver a black jacquard ballgown.

Other highlights included the oversized Grand Jardin feather dress modelled by Kaia Gerber, a mint green tiered tulle gown dotted with black feathers, a black tulle dress with floral appliques as well as a silver sequin blazer with structured black skirt.

Paris Couture Week continues on Wednesday with presentations from Maison Margiela, Elie Saab, and Valentino.

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John Galliano relies on interns’ input at Maison Margiela

John Galliano is “obsessed” with learning about what his interns are interested in.The Gibraltar-born British designer has been the head of Maison Margiela since 2014, and over his four years at the label, has ushered in a host of interns.While the bud…

John Galliano is “obsessed” with learning about what his interns are interested in.

The Gibraltar-born British designer has been the head of Maison Margiela since 2014, and over his four years at the label, has ushered in a host of interns.

While the budding designers are all in awe of the former Dior head, Galliano is adamant he gets just as much out of working with them.

“I’ve never had such close, direct communication with the stages as I’m having here,” he told British Vogue. “It was something I decided right at the beginning, because I remember being an intern myself; the hopes, the aspirations, the passion.

“Their view of the world is completely different. Of course, one understands it, but you can’t put yourself in those shoes, can you? You can only be alive around these people.

“As much as they’re obsessed with what I’m doing and the craft, I’m obsessed with what they’re thinking.”

His interns praise Galliano, who has enjoyed a fashion comeback since being sacked from Dior following a drunken anti-Semitic outburst in 2011, for bringing authenticity to Maison Margiela and not a glossed over version of what the younger generation want from their clothes.

“In other places, you never hang out with the creative director,” a 26-year-old intern called Masha told Vogue’s fashion critic Anders Christian Madsen.

And for his part, Galliano, 58, wants to encourage all of his workers to be themselves.

“That’s inspiring for me,” he smiled.

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Givenchy returning to Paris Fashion Week: Men’s

Givenchy is returning to Paris Fashion Week: Men’s for fall 2019.The label has opted for coed shows ever since Clare Waight Keller was appointed artistic director in 2017, however, WWD has reported that it will be switching back to the men’s fashion ca…

Givenchy is returning to Paris Fashion Week: Men’s for fall 2019.

The label has opted for coed shows ever since Clare Waight Keller was appointed artistic director in 2017, however, WWD has reported that it will be switching back to the men’s fashion calendar next season.

Givenchy confirmed in a statement that the presentation is scheduled for 16 January (19).

“Granting menswear a dedicated platform starting from January reflects the house’s support of Clare Waight Keller’s vision for the brand,” a spokesperson added.

The British designer presented a gender-fluid offering for her spring 2019 collection inspired by Swiss writer Annemarie Schwarzenbach, and though she has now decided to offer separate displays of menswear and womenswear, the brand is adamant that men and women will still feature side by side in her ready-to-wear and haute couture shows.

Waight Keller’s campaigns for the French fashion house have portrayed both sexes in mirror-image pairs, and the decision to return to the men’s fashion calendar comes at a time where many brands are deciding to present women’s and men’s wear simultaneously.

Celine, in its first presentation under new artistic, creative and image director Hedi Slimane, and Maison Margiela both staged their first coed shows for spring 2019. Under Slimane, Celine has also introduced a new menswear category to the brand for the first time.

While Stella McCartney, Balenciaga, Haider Ackermann and Sonia Rykiel all featured models of both sexes on their catwalks during their Fashion Week shows.

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Teddy Quinlivan fronts imagery for new Maison Margiela perfume

Teddy Quinlivan and Hanne Gaby Odiele are among the models tapped to front the campaign for Maison Margiela’s new scent, Mutiny.The French fashion house unveiled its debut fragrance following its spring/summer 2019 show during Paris Fashion Week on Wed…

Teddy Quinlivan and Hanne Gaby Odiele are among the models tapped to front the campaign for Maison Margiela’s new scent, Mutiny.

The French fashion house unveiled its debut fragrance following its spring/summer 2019 show during Paris Fashion Week on Wednesday (26Sep18), with the label’s creative director John Galliano explaining that the scent had been designed to reflect his vision of the Maison Margiela woman.

Accordingly, the designer has called on six ‘Mutinist’ ambassadors to represent the diversity and individuality of the fragrance in the accompanying marketing imagery.

The line-up includes models Teddy and Hanne, alongside Will Smith’s daughter Willow Smith, American Honey actress Sasha Lane, rapper Princess Nokia, real name Destiny Frasqueri, and model Molly Bair.

The venture marks Galliano’s first foray into the world of fragrance, with the 52-year-old calling on legendary French perfumer Dominique Ropion to help devise the scent over the course of six years.

Mutiny centres around the traditionally feminine note of tuberose and combines it with the leathery scents of saffron, oud and vanilla, as well as notes of orange flower, jasmine and citrus.

Its bottle can stand upright or lay on its side and, according to Galliano, its top is meant to resemble an open cage “so you can fly out!”

“It is the heart of the tuberose, and it’s a very magical mix – after you’ve left the room, people know you’ve been in there,” he gushed to Vogue. “It can uplift you; it can change your emotions!”

Mutiny launches on 26 September.

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