Maison Margiela has explored the meaning of slow fashion with its fall/winter 2020 collection.
Creative director John Galliano, who renewed his contract with the luxury label last year, unveiled his latest line as part of Paris Fashion Week on Wednesday.
Prior to the release of the co-ed range, the designer recorded a piece for his The Memory Of… podcast in which he explained that he would be introducing a new version of brand founder Margiela’s Replica concept from a 1994 collection, to be known as Recicla. Handpicking items from vintage boutiques and sourcing offcuts from luxury manufacturers, Galliano has restored and re-appropriated them as limited-edition garments or accessories.
“It’s slower fashion, it’s all those things that we believe in and that you can give something another life, longevity, and it’s also buying with a conscience,” the 59-year-old shared. “Recicla is really about recycling and upscaling, and the joy that we will be able to sell these pieces amongst the rest of the collection just thrills me. I think it’s really exciting, because it’s a real thing. It’s handpicked by J.G. I feel it fits in with the story or has been part of the narrative.
“One thing that’s been really thrilling is to have the courage, myself and the team, to explore charity shop finds, just as a quick way to kind of start exercising a concept or something where we can really feel quite free and play with these finds. It’s a learning process – it’s a process!”
During the show, Galliano’s Recicla concept was apparent in the inclusion of a red vintage coat folded into itself with bow detailing, a black chiffon top made with repurposed turquoise silk cashmere, as well as in new versions of the popular leather 5AC bag.
Other highlights included deconstructed coats, patchwork-like jackets, tulle dresses, and updated takes on the label’s iconic Tabi shoes.
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