CFDA cut New York Fashion Week to three days

Bosses at the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) have made the decision to cut short the upcoming New York Fashion Week.Typically, the biannual event takes place over an eight-day period, with various runways and presentations staged across…

Bosses at the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) have made the decision to cut short the upcoming New York Fashion Week.

Typically, the biannual event takes place over an eight-day period, with various runways and presentations staged across the city.

However, in light of the global coronavirus pandemic, bosses have made the decision to cut the fashion event down to three days.

In a notice sent to members, the spring/summer 21 showcase will run from 14 to 16 September, with the option to add the 17th as a supplement day if the schedule demands it, reports WWD.

The dates for the next NYFW are still officially listed as 11 to 16 September.

However, members have reportedly been told the shorter calendar came about as a result of the “changes we have seen from live events to digital activations, and awareness of city regulations to protect the health and well-being of everyone”.

Some brands, like Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors, have already stated they are skipping the next Fashion Week. For the shows that go ahead, there will be no live audiences.

Discussing the change, Mark Beckham, vice president of marketing and events for CFDA, told the fashion title: “We can fit the same amount of shows in to three days because of no need for travel time in between the shows. The three days of shows is only for this season as a result of Covid-19.”

He further noted the impact of the pandemic on production and budgets “may cause some designers to skip this season”.

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Adwoa Aboah refuses to stay silent on stigmatised issues

Adwoa Aboah refuses to “stay silent” because she feels “obligated” to share her personal story with others.The model-and-activist has spoken openly about her experiences through her online organisation Gurls Talk and launched the digital initia…

Adwoa Aboah refuses to “stay silent” because she feels “obligated” to share her personal story with others.

The model-and-activist has spoken openly about her experiences through her online organisation Gurls Talk and launched the digital initiative #CopingTogether last month.

Adwoa, who has worked closely with fashion houses such as Chanel, Dior and Marc Jacobs, hopes the current Black Lives Matter movement will be just the start of change around the world.

“It’s become quite natural to me to speak my truth and talk about subjects that are stigmatised or people find to be taboo,” Adwoa said in an interview with Essence. “I’m not staying silent in general, whether it be talking about mental health or my own story, because I really, truly feel obligated to do it.”

The model hopes #CopingTogether will inspire people to openly discuss what is going on globally at the moment and bring about change for the better.

“I feel ready to make the changes and be part of this new normality. I don’t want to go back to the way it was – in any sense of the word,” she explained.

While Adwoa feels passionately about how she wants to live her life in the wake of the Covid-19 pandemic and the Black Lives Matter movement, she admits to having doubts and insecurities during these challenging times.

“I switch back and forth from me being in quite a negative head space and feeling like I’m not sure what the next steps are,” the model shared when asked how it feels to be a Black creative at the moment, “and knowing what I want and the changes that I want to see made, but feeling quite overwhelmed by the process and the steps that need to be taken for that to happen…

“(The pandemic) has made me look at how you want to live each day. Not that this is kind of a surprise with the revolution and what’s happening, this was part of our daily lives and we were completely aware of it.”

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Fashion stars congratulate Matthew Williams on Givenchy gig

Top models and designers have congratulated Matthew Williams on his new role at Givenchy.On Monday, bosses at the Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH)-owned French luxury label announced that the 1017 Alyx 9SM designer would succeed Clare Waight Keller a…

Top models and designers have congratulated Matthew Williams on his new role at Givenchy.

On Monday, bosses at the Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH)-owned French luxury label announced that the 1017 Alyx 9SM designer would succeed Clare Waight Keller as creative director following her departure last month.

After the news was revealed, a number of top industry names were quick to take to social media to praise Williams.

On an Instagram post, Naomi Campbell wrote, “Congratulations” along with a heart and star emoji, while Adwoa Aboah commented, “Well done stunner,” and Coco Rocha stated, “So excited for this!”

Stylist Karla Welch posted, “Congratulations Matt!!!”, and designer Marc Jacobs added, “Congratulations to you Matthew.”

Elsewhere, fashion journalist Tim Blanks wrote, “Can’t wait to see what happens next,” and designer Gabriela Hearst noted, “So well deserved. Hyper Talented and Kind Human.”

Dior menswear designer Kim Jones, Bella Hadid, and hairstylist Jen Atkin also shared supportive messages.

Known for his ability to merge streetwear with sharp tailoring, Chicago-born, California-raised Williams founded his 1017 Alyx 9SM label in 2015 and has since expanded his offerings to include ready-to-wear, accessories, and shoe collections.

And in a statement, Sidney Toledano, chief executive officer and chairman of LVMH Fashion Group, shared his excitement over Williams’ appointment.

“I am very happy to see Matthew M. Williams join the LVMH Group. Since he took part in the LVMH Prize, we have had the pleasure of watching him develop into the great talent he is today,” he said. “I believe his singular vision of modernity will be a great opportunity for Givenchy to write its new chapter with strength and success.”

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Marc Jacobs vows to be ‘better ally’ following cultural appropriation claims

Marc Jacobs has vowed to keep “listening and learning” after he was called out in a social media post for cultural appropriation.Back in 2016, the designer caused controversy when models including Gigi Hadid and Irina Shayk wore hand-dyed wool dreadloc…

Marc Jacobs has vowed to keep “listening and learning” after he was called out in a social media post for cultural appropriation.

Back in 2016, the designer caused controversy when models including Gigi Hadid and Irina Shayk wore hand-dyed wool dreadlocks during his show held as part of New York Fashion Week.

Jacobs was heavily criticised at the time, and was again chastised when he recently commented on an Instagram post uploaded by fashion watchdog account, Diet Prada.

After viewing the video of Kyla Lacey for Write About Now Poetry, the 57-year-old praised the performance, which discussed white privilege.

“I’m listening. I’m learning. This poem, and this human is extraordinary in every way,” Jacobs wrote, before he was called out by several followers in the comments section.

“We need to know what you do once you’ve HEARD. listening is not enough,” one stated, while another asked: “Didn’t one of your seasons appropriate black culture? Remember the dreads? The black community does.”

“I made a mistake. I didn’t listen when I was being corrected,” Jacobs replied. “I was insensitive and wrong with my response. I know better know. I keep listening and learning.”

The fashion star also responded to a comment which asked him to expand the foundation shades in his Marc Jacobs Beauty line.

“We have expanded our shade range. We did that two years ago. Thank you for sharing your comments. I promise you I am doing my all I can to be a better allie (sic),” he added.

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Marc Jacobs: ‘Make-up isn’t masculine or feminine’

Marc Jacobs is fed up with misconceptions about men wearing make-up.The fashion designer discussed the subject of men wearing cosmetics during an interview with Interview magazine, and said he was stunned by the ridicule he has faced for experimenting …

Marc Jacobs is fed up with misconceptions about men wearing make-up.

The fashion designer discussed the subject of men wearing cosmetics during an interview with Interview magazine, and said he was stunned by the ridicule he has faced for experimenting with beauty products.

“While the idea of adorning oneself, or making yourself up, might be different than covering up a zit or concealing tired eyes, at the end of the day it’s instinctive to want to look more attractive,” Jacobs shared. “Make-up is make-up, which is why I’ve always found the distinction between men’s and women’s make-up to be kind of ridiculous.”

The 57-year-old, who has his own Marc Jacobs Beauty collection, also recalled being quizzed by several people after he recently wore a Prada coat from the luxury label’s womenswear line.

“Oh, a coat has a gender now? Yes, it fits differently because it was cut for a woman, but I’m wearing it. It’s my coat and I like it. It’s the same thing with nail polish,” he continued, noting that he is exasperated by the controversy surrounding men having manicures and pedicures. “When I go to get my nails done, I always put colour, nail art, or whatever I should fancy. Nowadays, I see more and more men getting their nails and their toes coloured, and I have no idea what they’re interested in sexually. I don’t have conversations with them. I really don’t care. I’m just happy to see that space being occupied by people of all genders and identities.”

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Marc Jacobs only wants to produce two collections per year

Marc Jacobs is adamant it is time for the traditional fashion calendar to be streamlined.Following the restrictions put in place due to the coronavirus crisis earlier this year, the American fashion designer previously announced that he wouldn’t be cre…

Marc Jacobs is adamant it is time for the traditional fashion calendar to be streamlined.

Following the restrictions put in place due to the coronavirus crisis earlier this year, the American fashion designer previously announced that he wouldn’t be creating a collection for spring 2021 and had halted production on his fall/winter 2020 line, unveiled as part of New York Fashion Week in February, as he is too dependent on fabric imported from Italy.

And in a recent conversation for The Business of Fashion’s podcast, Jacobs revealed that he believes designers should now be making no more than two collections per year.

“I feel like that last show was very telling of what I was really thinking, but that doesn’t surprise me because all of the shows are somewhat autobiographical. I told the story of a New York that I remembered and I loved, and still love, but is gone. It had shades of all my heroes and my fashion life as a New Yorker,” he commented. “After every show I say, if this was the last show I did, I’d be fine with it. But… I was so emphatic about the last show and I felt like things have got to change. We have to slow down, we can do this twice a year. I would like to say something creatively, but I can do it twice a year. The idea of being forced to create something and tell a story constantly, when it has no meaning, it has no soul, has no authenticity or credibility, it just seems so vacant.”

Jacobs went on to explain that he will be pushing the industry to become much more sustainable as he is sick of seeing unused products and fabrics ending up in landfills.

And while the fashion star is continuing to design throughout the Covid-19 lockdown, he admitted the whole scenario is impacting his mental health.

“There are days where I feel extremely depressed, I feel like it’s the end of the world, and there are days when I’m manic and I think, ‘What a great opportunity for us all to learn, collectively from this,'” the 57-year-old added.

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Marc Jacobs honours Susan Sarandon in sweet social media post

Marc Jacobs has described Susan Sarandon as a lifelong inspiration in a touching social media post.The designer previously worked with the Oscar-winning actress on his autumn/winter 2016 ad campaign, with the project also featuring models Kendall Jenne…

Marc Jacobs has described Susan Sarandon as a lifelong inspiration in a touching social media post.

The designer previously worked with the Oscar-winning actress on his autumn/winter 2016 ad campaign, with the project also featuring models Kendall Jenner and Cara Delevingne.

But after experiencing problems trying to share a live make-up tutorial on Instagram paying homage to the 1975 iconic musical The Rocky Horror Picture Show on Sunday, Jacobs decided to re-post a lengthy tribute to Sarandon that he’d originally penned four years ago.

“DAMN IT, JANET. Unfortunately, last nights Too-torial paying homage to The Rocky Horror Picture Show is experiencing some technical difficulties (sic). In the meantime, I am posting my inspiration over the years from TRHPS. Photo #1 SUSAN, Seduction,” the designer wrote alongside a picture of the Thelma & Louise star in his ad from 2016.

He went on to explain that he’d become obsessed with the musical movie, which also starred Tim Curry, as it served as an “invitation (or excuse) to dress up and express oneself fearlessly”.

Jacobs fell in love with Sarandon’s character Janet and her loss of innocence in the movie, and insisted that he was blown away when he first met the star in person in the late 1980s.

“It was in my early days at Perry Ellis when I first had the privilege of meeting Susan. Her intelligence, courage, strength, conviction, and ballsiness has always been so admirable to me,” the 57-year-old shared. “There’s an inherent seductive quality in Susan as a woman who always speaks her mind and an artist who takes risks. Her talent as an actress is one of extraordinary range, talent, and power.”

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Marc Jacobs won’t be designing spring 2021 collection

Marc Jacobs won’t be designing a collection for the spring/summer 2021 season.During an appearance on Global Conversations, a new online discussion series produced by Vogue, the American designer announced that he would not be working on a new line for…

Marc Jacobs won’t be designing a collection for the spring/summer 2021 season.

During an appearance on Global Conversations, a new online discussion series produced by Vogue, the American designer announced that he would not be working on a new line for the foreseeable future due to the limitations imposed on himself and his team during the coronavirus pandemic.

“To be honest, I don’t know what we’ll be doing or when we’ll be starting, but to design a collection I need my team. And my team needs to look at fabrics. And those fabrics come from Italy. And we travel, and there’s a lot of things that go on,” he told British Vogue editor-in-chief Edward Enninful. “Until we discover a new way to work – until we create a new way to work – or a new end goal to work towards, we really have nothing to do.”

Additionally, Jacobs was frank about his lack of inspiration during the lockdown.

“It’s life that stimulates and provides a catalyst for what me and my team create each season, so I wouldn’t say (self-isolation is) the most creative place to be,” the 57-year-old commented.

As well as hitting pause on his spring 2021 collection, Jacobs also revealed that he has cancelled production on his fall/winter 2020 line, unveiled as part of New York Fashion Week in February, as he is too dependent on fabric imported from Italy.

“Until we discover a new way to work – until we create a new way to work – or a new end goal to work towards, we really have nothing to do,” he insisted, before noting that he was struggling to see a way forward. “We’ve got to let go of old ideas. I don’t know if I can get far enough in this process without grieving the process I knew and let go of that to see a new tomorrow.”

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Pierpaolo Piccioli reflects on coronavirus lockdown in Italy

Pierpaolo Piccioli has reflected on Italy’s coronavirus lockdown in a powerful post on social media.Taking to Instagram on Wednesday, the Italian fashion designer responded to Prime Minister Giuseppe Conte’s decision to place the entire population on l…

Pierpaolo Piccioli has reflected on Italy’s coronavirus lockdown in a powerful post on social media.

Taking to Instagram on Wednesday, the Italian fashion designer responded to Prime Minister Giuseppe Conte’s decision to place the entire population on lockdown, with all public gatherings cancelled and all schools and universities closed until next month.

More than 60 million people are affected by the new measures, which were put in place after cases of coronavirus in the country hit more than 12,400, with 827 deaths.

Alongside a photo of him sketching by a pool, the creative director of Valentino praised the people of his home nation for their resilience amidst the global pandemic and put a positive spin on being in self-isolation at his home in the coastal Italian town of Nettuno.

“Home. This country has overcome the toughest moments with pride, creativity, and optimism. And so, it will, once again,” Piccioli wrote. “There is a time for moving and a time for staying still. Even at home, our imagination can lead us anywhere.

“Such a serious situation will not stop us from dreaming,” he continued. “Our will is strong, our duty is to resist, and we will keep on dreaming, harder than ever and we will rise stronger than ever.”

Piccioli’s famous friends were quick to show their support in the comments, with both Naomi Campbell and Marc Jacobs sending their love.

“Well said. That’s the spirit we all love,” Karen Elson added, prompting the designer to reply: “We stay strong… even at home!”

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Stella McCartney and Virgil Abloh join 2020 LVMH Prize jury

Stella McCartney and Virgil Abloh are to help judge the 2020 LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers competition.Every year since 2013, executives at Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) have held the prestigious contest, with the Young Fashion Designers …

Stella McCartney and Virgil Abloh are to help judge the 2020 LVMH Prize for Young Fashion Designers competition.

Every year since 2013, executives at Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) have held the prestigious contest, with the Young Fashion Designers competition open to designers from around the world who have produced at least two collections and who are under 40.

On Tuesday, organisers announced that this year’s winner will be announced at an event held at the Fondation Louis Vuitton in Paris on 5 June, with McCartney and Louis Vuitton menswear designer Abloh among the panel.

Singer Rihanna, who launched her Fenty clothing label in partnership with the luxury conglomerate last year, will also be on the jury.

“For this seventh edition, I am delighted to announce the arrival of Virgil Abloh, former Prize finalist, Robyn Rihanna Fenty, and Stella McCartney in the jury of the LVMH Prize,” said Delphine Arnault, executive vice president of Louis Vuitton, in a statement. “They will be joining our prestigious panel which includes: Jonathan Anderson, Kris Van Assche, Nicolas Ghesquiere, Maria Grazia Chiuri, Marc Jacobs, Clare Waight Keller as well as Sidney Toledano, Jean-Paul Claverie and I. I wish to thank them for their involvement and their support to young creation. The prize is an incredible opportunity for these young designers to be appraised by them and to enjoy their advice.”

Those in the running for the 2020 LVMH Prize include New York-based designer Peter Do, British-Indian designer Supriya Lele, British menswear designer Priya Ahluwalia of Ahluwalia, French menswear designer Charaf Tajer of Casablanca, Emma Chopova and Laura Lowena of womenswear brand Chopova Lowena, London-based menswear designer Nicholas Daley, South African womenswear designer Sindiso Khumalo, and Japanese womenswear designer Tomotaka Koizumi of Tomo Koizumi.

The winner will take home $340,000 (£260,000) and receive support from executives at the company for 12 months.

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