Dior took inspiration from Greek goddesses and feminist writing for its latest couture line.
Creative director Maria Grazia Chiuri unveiled her spring/summer 2020 collection at the Musee Rodin as part of Paris Couture Week on Monday, with the likes of Uma Thurman, Tessa Thompson, Haley Bennett, Kristin Scott Thomas, Doutzen Kroes, Kat Graham, Natalia Vodianova, and Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie all perched on the front row.
Keeping in line with the feminist spirit of her previous ranges, Chiuri themed the line around the idea of American artist Judy Chicago’s key question: “What if women ruled the world?”
“In opening herself up to other ways of thinking, Chiuri seeks to grasp the complexity of relationships between feminism and femininity. Mindful of the fundamental link between fashion and the body, she re-sculpts it, like a manifesto. The Female Divine, an installation specially designed by Judy Chicago for the garden of the Musee Rodin, at once serves as a sanctuary, a stage and a monumental artwork,” a Dior representative commented of the designer’s inspirations. “But above all. it represents a tribute to, and re-appropriation of, an ancestral power that goes beyond the idea of procreation. Chiuri highlights the vision of a pioneer, a founder of American feminist art, as the revivor of a triumphant, divine conception of femininity, mistress of her destiny.”
To open, a model walked the runway in a gold dress with interwoven fringe detailing, with the look accessorised with flat sandals. Chiuri then showcased a number of techniques influenced by ancient Greek clothing, including carefully draped tops, flowing dresses, and peplos-style tunics.
To emphasise the theme, the models had their hair braided and topped off with metallic headbands, while outfits were matched with heavy olive leaf-shaped bracelets and necklaces.
Elsewhere, highlights included a long gold coat featuring delicate floral embroidery, a light pink dress dotted with evil eye motifs, a red dress with a finely pleated skirt, as well as a one-shoulder white gown with tiered tulle skirt.
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