Dries Van Noten leads call for major changes to fashion calendar

Dries Van Noten is proposing major changes to the fashion calendar amid the coronavirus crisis.The Covid-19 pandemic has hit the clothing industry hard, with factories and stores being forced to temporarily close across the world. However, Van Noten is…

Dries Van Noten is proposing major changes to the fashion calendar amid the coronavirus crisis.

The Covid-19 pandemic has hit the clothing industry hard, with factories and stores being forced to temporarily close across the world.

However, Van Noten is adamant that now might be the time to try and rethink the traditional seasonal fashion calendar.

“When you try to explain how fashion works to people not in fashion, it’s impossible. Nobody can understand it,” the 62-year-old told The New York Times, before noting that he anticipates disruptions to the upcoming drops anyway. “We know fall will deliver late… And we are going to put that on sale in November? Wouldn’t it better to wait until the new year? And then to have the courage to keep the rhythm we establish now?”

Accordingly, Van Noten is spearheading a campaign to better streamline the business, with a group of other designers and global retail bosses also showing their support for the idea.

Members of the group published an open letter on Tuesday in which they insisted the current environment provides the opportunity for a “fundamental and welcome change that will simplify our businesses, making them more environmentally and socially sustainable and ultimately align them more closely with customers’ needs.”

Primarily, they want to put the fall/winter season back to winter (August/January) and spring/summer season back in summer (February/July), create a more balanced flow of deliveries, and discount only at the end of the season.

“Working together, we hope these steps will allow our industry to become more responsible for our impact on our customers, on the planet and on the fashion community, and bring back the magic and creativity that has made fashion such an important part of our world,” they added.

Current signatories include Joseph Altuzarra, Craig Green, Erdem Moralioglu, Marine Serre, Mary Katrantzou, Pierre Hardy, Tory Burch, as well as Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler.

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Mary Katrantzou cried when Temple of Poseidon show got approved

Designer Mary Katrantzou cried when Greek officials gave their approval for her to stage a fashion show at the ancient Temple of Poseidon in Athens. The Greek fashion designer, who lives and works in London, will present her ready-to-wear spring/summe…

Designer Mary Katrantzou cried when Greek officials gave their approval for her to stage a fashion show at the ancient Temple of Poseidon in Athens.

The Greek fashion designer, who lives and works in London, will present her ready-to-wear spring/summer 2020 collection at the Ancient Greek temple, which is one of the major monuments of the Golden Age of Athens, on Thursday.

The event will mark the first time a designer has ever staged a runway show at the historical site, which is perched above the sea, and will also be the first it’s ever been used for a private event, so the 36-year-old was so shocked to get approval for the show that she cried.

“It’s very difficult because it needs to be approved by both the Ministry of Culture and KAS (Central Archaeological Council) and that whole process took over six months,” Katrantzou told Vogue Australia. “In July we achieved what, by this time, I thought was impossible and got the yes. It was so unexpected I cried and it’s the first time in the 10 years I’ve worked in the fashion industry that I’ve had that reaction.”

KAS, the advisory board that protects ancient monuments and archaeological sites, are famously strict and had previously rejected Gucci’s bid to host a fashion show at the Acropolis back in 2017.

Explaining why she wanted to present her show there, Katrantzou said, “You feel completely removed, it’s a place where as a teenager I would go and collect my thoughts. Even though it’s inundated with tourists now, you really feel connected to the elements. There’s no other monument I’ve visited that’s joined to the sky and the sea, and the earth like the Temple of Poseidon.”

The designer, who celebrated her label’s 10th anniversary last year, believes one of the reasons her bid got approved was because she’s working with UNESCO Goodwill Ambassador Marianna Vardinoyannis and a proportion of the seats will be available via donation to the philanthropist’s organisation, Association of Friends of Children with Cancer (ELPIDA).

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Mark Fast opens LFW with fluffy and feminine fall line

Mark Fast has kicked off day one of London Fashion Week with his signature feathering detailing.Hot on the heels of Marc Jacobs’ feather-filled New York Fashion Week closing show, knitwear designer Fast, whose clients include Cardi B, Rihanna and Nic…

Mark Fast has kicked off day one of London Fashion Week with his signature feathering detailing.

Hot on the heels of Marc Jacobs’ feather-filled New York Fashion Week closing show, knitwear designer Fast, whose clients include Cardi B, Rihanna and Nicki Minaj, presented a fluffy and feminine collection on Friday morning (15Feb19).

With nods to Old Hollywood glamour, the elegant ensembles were dripping in ostrich feathers, like the figure-hugging mint green ‘50s-cut dress and the full skirted candy pink cocktail gown.

It wasn’t just dresses on display though; a number of skin-tight, fluffy catsuits made their way down the catwalk, in pastel and bright shades of blue and aqua.

There was no colour crossover in the collection either; every single garment was made in one block colour, with black and orange breaking up the sugary sweet shades.

ASAI also showed on Friday morning, with designer A Sai Ta presenting his first standalone London Fashion Week show.

Mixing together earthy tones for the colder months, Ta’s catwalk was full of layering and voluminous silhouettes. The cream belted duvet coat was a standout moment, and the designer put a woollen spin on his uber popular, tie-dye-esque Hot Wok tops.

Over the weekend, some of the biggest names in fashion will showcase their new season lines, including Mary Katrantzou, Burberry and Victoria Beckham, who’s back in the British capital following on from her homecoming show in September.

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Kendall Jenner ‘only gets nervous’ on Victoria’s Secret runway

Kendall Jenner has admitted that the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show is the only catwalk to give her preshow nerves.The supermodel is no stranger to the runway, and since 2014 she has walked for the world’s biggest fashion houses including Marc Jacobs, …

Kendall Jenner has admitted that the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show is the only catwalk to give her preshow nerves.

The supermodel is no stranger to the runway, and since 2014 she has walked for the world’s biggest fashion houses including Marc Jacobs, Chanel, Givenchy, Fendi and Vera Wang.

Having walked in the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show in both 2015 and 2016 before taking a year out, Kendall returned to the annual lingerie extravaganza last Thursday (08Nov18) alongside Winnie Harlow, sisters Gigi and Bella Hadid, and Angels Adriana Lima and Candice Swanepoel, among others.

And though she may be a pro, the anticipation still gets the better of her.

“It’s the only show that I really get that nervous for, after you walk once, because you do two shows, it’s like you just want to go again,” the 23-year-old gushed in an interview with Extra. “It’s the most fun thing and all the nerves go away.”

On the night, the Keeping Up with the Kardashians star stunned in a lace black underwear set completed with an embellished neck piece and spiky black back piece dripping in stars, as well a cute tartan bra and matching mini skirt with a long checked train.

Kendall has since posted several snaps from the show to her Instagram account, insisting that it was “always an honor” to be involved, and also joked about how her diet had changed since this year’s spectacle had drawn to a close.

Alongside photos of her, Gigi, Winnie and model Alexina Graham flaunting their taut figures in colourful floral pieces designed by Mary Katrantzou, the fashion starlet wrote: “i’ve had so much pasta since this day.”

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Supermodels stun in 2018 Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show

The Victoria’s Secret Angels wowed during the 2018 Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show in New York on Thursday night (08Nov18).The annual lingerie extravaganza returned to the U.S. after two years away from the city, and featured performances from the likes…

The Victoria’s Secret Angels wowed during the 2018 Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show in New York on Thursday night (08Nov18).

The annual lingerie extravaganza returned to the U.S. after two years away from the city, and featured performances from the likes of Rita Ora, Shawn Mendes, Halsey, and Bebe Rexha.

Styled in outfits by London-based designer Mary Katrantzou, the world’s top supermodels took to the runway wearing an array of showstopping ensembles.

The show marked the return of Behati Prinsloo after a three-year hiatus following the births of her daughters Dusty Rose, two, and eight-month-old Gio Grace, and the 30-year-old made a triumphant comeback wearing a grand tartan cape and matching jacket, layered over a red and black lacy cropped basque.

New mother and veteran Angel Candice Swanepoel also made an appearance just five months after welcoming her son Ariel, and stunned in a shimmering black bra and thong set, later changing into a high-waisted pink corset and a Victoria’s Secret Angel slogan T-shirt complete with dainty pink and gold feathered wings.

The show also marked Adriana Lima’s last time on the Victoria’s Secret runway, and the Brazilian model received an emotional standing ovation as she made her final walk.

Kendall Jenner and Gigi Hadid also returned after missing out on last year’s event, while Winnie Harlow made her Victoria’s Secret debut. The trio walked hand-in-hand down the catwalk, with Gigi and Winnie styled in floral cut-out bodysuits and Kendall in an edgier laced black underwear set with an embellished neck piece.

Swedish star Elsa Hosk was given the honour of wearing this year’s coveted $1 million (£766,500) Fantasy Bra, which consisted of over 2,100 jewels, and looked ethereal in a dainty white feathered back piece and diamante body chain.

The 2018 Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show will air in the U.S. on the ABC network on 2 December.

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Mary Katrantzou now open to designing ‘more revealing’ clothes

Mary Katrantzou has vowed to design collections that are “a little more revealing” in the wake of her collaboration with Victoria’s Secret.The London-based fashion star collaborated with designers at the U.S. lingerie brand for the 2018 Victoria’s Secr…

Mary Katrantzou has vowed to design collections that are “a little more revealing” in the wake of her collaboration with Victoria’s Secret.

The London-based fashion star collaborated with designers at the U.S. lingerie brand for the 2018 Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show, which took place in New York on Thursday night (08Nov18), with her floral collection able to be worn as undergarments or clothing.

Now having worked with the sexy label, Katrantzou has been inspired to reassess the way she approaches her own personal designs.

“The relationship you have with your underwear is so different, that when you’re designing you want to feel comfortable,” she explained in an interview with WWD before the spectacle. “It’s made me look at a woman’s body differently. I wanted to look at our own collection and start to open things up a little bit – be a little more revealing.”

The Greek designer certainly made a statement, particularly when it came to the iconic Victoria’s Secret wings, which she transformed into vibrant parachute-like capes so the models were “still flying, but differently”.

And considering that she had yet to design a bra when she got the call from the lingerie giant, she admitted she was surprised her name had ever been in the running.

“It’s so unexpected, it’s so interesting,” the 35-year-old smiled. “Sometimes you have certain things you want to happen and you manifest to happen and this something that came out of nowhere…That conversation (with Victoria’s Secret) was interesting, just because of the values we both share about empowering women.”

The 2018 Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show will air in the U.S. on the ABC network on 2 December.

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Mary Katrantzou wants Victoria’s Secret designs to act like a ‘second skin’

Mary Katrantzou hopes her designs for Victoria’s Secret feel like a “second skin”.Earlier this month (Oct18), bosses at the U.S. lingerie giant announced that the Greek designer would be creating sexy separates for the upcoming Victoria’s Secret Fashio…

Mary Katrantzou hopes her designs for Victoria’s Secret feel like a “second skin”.

Earlier this month (Oct18), bosses at the U.S. lingerie giant announced that the Greek designer would be creating sexy separates for the upcoming Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show, to be held in New York City in November.

Regarding the collection, Katrantzou has now shared that she was very concerned with getting the fit right when crafting the bras and underwear.

“It’s designed to empower women to have fun with their undergarments and feel free to explore pattern and colour as a second skin,” she told Vogue.com. “The pieces can be worn as undergarments or as actual clothing, so all the fabrications have dual purpose. I wanted to stay true to our brand heritage, so pattern and colour are integral to the collection, but we always kept the Victoria’s Secret girl central to the design process.”

Katrantzou went on to explain that she looked back at silhouettes she crafted for previous fashion collections for inspiration, but also created new styles specifically for the lingerie company.

In addition, she confirmed the garments will include her signature prints, with a teaser image of the colour palette depicting blue and burgundy flower motifs against a pink and white striped background.

“I wanted the collection to be colourful and uplifting, bold, and strong,” the 35-year-old smiled.

After the show, Katrantzou’s underwear designs will be available to buy in-store and online as part of the Victoria’s Secret holiday collection. Prices have not yet been announced.

So far, models such as Behati Prinsloo, Candice Swanepoel, Winnie Harlow, Devon Windsor, Leomie Anderson and Cindy Bruna have been confirmed to appear in the style spectacle. Footwear designer Brian Atwood has also hinted that Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner walk the runway too, after taking a break in recent years.

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Candice Swanepoel to walk in Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show

Candice Swanepoel is walking in the 2018 Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show.The supermodel will return to the runway just five months after giving birth to her second son Ariel, whom she welcomed with fiance Hermann Nicoli in June (18). With many of her f…

Candice Swanepoel is walking in the 2018 Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show.

The supermodel will return to the runway just five months after giving birth to her second son Ariel, whom she welcomed with fiance Hermann Nicoli in June (18).

With many of her fans worried that mothering duties could make her a no-show for the lingerie brand’s annual extravaganza, Candice confirmed she would be returning to the fashion show with a post on her Instagram stories, as reported by editors at Vogue Australia on Monday (15Oct18).

The fashion show is taking place in New York in November, following a two-year hiatus abroad with stints in Shanghai, China and Paris, France. It was also recently confirmed that Victoria’s Secret had tapped Mary Katrantzou to create pieces for the event, taking over from Balmain’s Olivier Rousteing, who was 2017’s designer.

Another model returning to the catwalk is mother-of-two Behati Prinsloo, who took a break from the Victoria’s Secret Fashion Show following the birth of her daughters Dusty, two, and Gio, eight months.

“I’m coming back this year. I missed two years, so I’m really excited to walk this year,” she divulged during a recent appearance on Watch What Happens Live with Andy Cohen.

Lais Ribeiro, Martha Hunt, Stella Maxwell, Leomie Anderson and Devon Windsor are also returning, while there will also be plenty of new faces such as Duckie Thot and Winnie Harlow.

“I can’t believe this!!” Winnie exclaimed on Instagram, following her casting. “Thank you for giving me all the energy and kindness in that room! Thank you for allowing me to walk for VICTORIA’S SECRET!”

Other models include Georgia Fowler, Grace Elizabeth and Kelsey Merritt, the first Filipino model to walk in the show.

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Victoria’s Secret taps Mary Katrantzou to design for 2018 show

Victoria’s Secret has recruited Mary Katrantzou to create pieces for its annual Fashion Show later this year (18).Following in the footsteps of Balmain head Olivier Rousteing, who created sexy separates for the 2017 show, Katrantzou, nicknamed the quee…

Victoria’s Secret has recruited Mary Katrantzou to create pieces for its annual Fashion Show later this year (18).

Following in the footsteps of Balmain head Olivier Rousteing, who created sexy separates for the 2017 show, Katrantzou, nicknamed the queen of prints, will be dressing some of the lingerie brand’s most famous Angels when they hit the New York runway this winter.

“Everything that Victoria’s Secret creates is about a woman feeling confident and empowered – and also having fun with what she is wearing,” the Greek designer said in a statement. “This collaboration is going to be bold, fun and playful.”

After the show, Katrantzou’s underwear designs will be available to buy in-store and online as part of the Victoria’s Secret holiday collection.

The London-based fashion star recently celebrated 10 years of her namesake label, and to mark the occasion, she teamed with Matches Fashion on a special line.

“We have exclusively re-issued 10 iconic pieces from the archives in collaboration with #matchesfashion,” Katrantzou wrote on Instagram on Thursday (04Oct18).

And in a recent chat with newspaper London Evening Standard, the 35-year-old spoke fondly of the ‘Mary Katrantzou woman’ – which includes famous fans like former U.S. First Lady Michelle Obama, Sarah Jessica Parker and Cate Blanchett.

“She’s bold. She’s very confident. She’s well-travelled,” she smiled. “They’re amazing women. I have never met someone who buys my work who I didn’t think is amazing. They lead very interesting lives. And I feel honoured that they choose my work.”

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Mary Katrantzou: ‘It’s important to focus on your own voice in fashion’

Mary Katrantzou has learned to trust her instincts when it comes to her wacky creations.The Greek designer likes to push her fashion concepts to the limit, with previous collections including jewellery so large it had to be made by an industrial furnit…

Mary Katrantzou has learned to trust her instincts when it comes to her wacky creations.

The Greek designer likes to push her fashion concepts to the limit, with previous collections including jewellery so large it had to be made by an industrial furniture factory and skirts handcrafted out of lampshades.

The 35-year-old’s label, which recently showcased its 10-year anniversary collection at London Fashion Week, is stocked in more than 125 stores worldwide and she counts Beyonce, Rihanna and Sarah Jessica Parker among her most famed fans.

But Mary is certain the key to her success is a simple case of remaining true to her vision and sticking by her decisions.

“When I wanted to do the pink foam floor for my AW15 show – to represent modernism versus xenophobia – we found the material in China but they couldn’t ship it in time, so we went on a mission to find pink Styrofoam,” Mary recalled in an interview with emerging fashion film-maker Belle Leigh Smith for Marie Claire. “It was crazy – I had 25 people looking for this stuff. But those moments are part of the creative process – you’re building a narrative. My boyfriend listened in when I was discussing the foam with a friend and said, ‘Mary, no one will care,’ and I’m like, ‘Yes, they will.’ It’s important to focus on your own voice.”

During the chat, the designer admitted that she has formed a trademark for creating “possibility out of impossibility”, forging collections most designers would shy away from due to their impracticality or difficulty to pull off.

It’s a style she was eager to bring to the fore as a young designer, but Mary has since learned she has room to slow down.

“I used to think I had to do everything super-fast in case someone else did it first,” she explained. “Then a friend of mine was like, ‘Mary, no one else is going to do a collection of lampshade skirts.”

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