Giorgio Armani to head up Fashion Film Festival Milano jury

Giorgio Armani has been appointed president of the 2019 Fashion Film Festival Milano jury. The Italian designer and his fellow jury members will judge 200 fashion films from 50 countries and award 17 winners competing in two different categories: Est…

Giorgio Armani has been appointed president of the 2019 Fashion Film Festival Milano jury.

The Italian designer and his fellow jury members will judge 200 fashion films from 50 countries and award 17 winners competing in two different categories: Established Talent and New Talent.

“Giorgio Armani immediately accepted our invitation with great enthusiasm. He was definitely the first to create a strong link between fashion and cinema and he is also so representative of the city of Milan that we thought he would have been the perfect godfather of the festival’s new format,” Fashion Film Festival Milano founder Constanza Cavalli Etro told WWD.

Armani, 84, will be joined on the jury by photographer Cass Bird, Oskar Metsavaht, founder of Brazilian fashion brand Osklen, Somali model Waris Dirie, fashion critic Angelo Flaccavento, Ezra Petronio from Self Service magazine, and Sissy Vian from Vogue Japan, among others.

They will also help decide who will win the inaugural Best New Italian Fashion Designer or Brand prize, which will honour the most talented up-and-coming fashion house in Italy.

The companies and personalities taking part in the film festival this year include Prada, Chanel, Gucci, Stella McCartney, Givenchy, Balenciaga, Miu Miu, model/actress Suki Waterhouse, Call Me by Your Name director Luca Guadagnino, and German filmmaker Wim Wenders.

The Fashion Film Festival Milano used to take place during Milan Fashion Week, but the sixth edition has been moved to bring more attention to the event, and will be held at the Anteo Palazzo Del Cinema theatre between 6 and 10 November.

“All the screenings are free and the talks are fully open to the public. This is something crucial for us, something we fight for and which enables us to be the most prestigious fashion film festival in the world,” Etro added.

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Gucci accused of cultural appropriation over turban-style headpiece

Gucci has been accused of cultural appropriation over the sale of a turban-inspired headpiece.In February, bosses at the Italian fashion house, led by creative director Alessandro Michele, were forced to issue an apology and set up diversity schemes af…

Gucci has been accused of cultural appropriation over the sale of a turban-inspired headpiece.

In February, bosses at the Italian fashion house, led by creative director Alessandro Michele, were forced to issue an apology and set up diversity schemes after fans pointed out that they were advertising a knitted jumper that resembled blackface – the controversial makeover white people adopt to look like black figures.

Now, Gucci has sparked outrage from the Sikh community over a cotton headwrap being sold for $790 (£618) by U.S. retailers such as Nordstrom, with the piece appearing to be very similar to the traditional headwear, also known as dastaar, which represents honour, self-respect, courage and piety.

“The Sikh turban is not just a fashion accessory, but it’s also a sacred religious article of faith. We hope more can be done to recognise this critical context. #appropriation,” an official from the New York Sikh Coalition wrote on Twitter, while Vancouver-based reporter Taran Parmar commented of the headpiece, “Seriously @Nordstrom @gucci ? The turban is one of the most important and symbolic articles of faith for Sikhs, and you’re selling it as a fashion accessory to make money? This isn’t the first time you’ve come under fire for cultural appropriation. Do better.”

In addition, another Twitter user named Aasees Kaur pointed out that those who wear turbans for religious reasons have been targets of violence in the past.

“This is beyond aggravating. Did someone at @gucci even bother to figure out what a dastaar (turban) means to Sikhs? Did it cross your minds to consider the history behind our identity? My people are discriminated against, even killed, for wearing a turban,” she stated.

The item was previously sold on the Nordstrom website with the description, “Indy Full Head Wrap”. It is no longer available.

Gucci’s turban was first unveiled during a runway presentation held as part of Milan Fashion Week in February 2018.

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Moschino teams with Sephora on office supply-themed collection

Moschino has teamed with Sephora on a new office supply-themed line of beauty products.The luxury Italian fashion house, helmed by designer Jeremy Scott, is known for its irreverent and quirky clothes, shoes, handbags and accessories. Scott first partn…

Moschino has teamed with Sephora on a new office supply-themed line of beauty products.

The luxury Italian fashion house, helmed by designer Jeremy Scott, is known for its irreverent and quirky clothes, shoes, handbags and accessories.

Scott first partnered with executives at French beauty giant Sephora in August 2017, and in light of the success of his debut seven-piece line, has now introduced a follow-up which evokes the bold squiggles featured in his ready-to-wear collection that was unveiled as part of Milan Fashion Week in September 2018.

“I HAVE SUPER EXCITING NEWS FOR MY BEAUTY FANS… I CREATED A NEW MAKE -UP COLLECTION FOR SEPHORA!!!” he captioned a snap of the range on his Instagram page. “THE @moschino X @sephora @sc COLLECTION LAUNCHES APRIL 25 TH ONLINE AND IN SEPHORA STORES IN US & CANADA BUT HERE IS A SNEAK PEEK AT MY OFFICE SUPPLY THEMED COLLECTION!”

The line includes an eyeshadow palette which is contained in a compact shaped as a laptop, a black liquid eyeliner which looks like a felt tip marker, pen-like lip glosses, and highlighters. There is also a white nail polish, called Whiteout, a line of pink sponges shaped like erasers, and a five-piece brush set which resemble sharpened pencils.

Model Remington Williams appears in the accompanying campaign, which was shot by photographer Marcus Mam.

Taking to social media, Remington shared that shooting the marketing imagery was a full circle moment for her as she had considered working at Sephora stores in the past.

“Fun fact: I applied to work at Sephora quite a few times. It never worked out in the past. Sometimes the world completes the circle better then I could have dreamed. Thank you @itsjeremyscott @moschino @sc@sephora and @marcus_mam for fulfilling a dream of mine. This is extra special to me,” she wrote.

Items in the Moschino x Sephora collection are priced between $12 and $60 (£9 – £46), and will hit shelves at selected stores from 25 April (19).

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Paul Surridge confirms exit from Roberto Cavalli

Paul Surridge is leaving Roberto Cavalli after almost two years at the brand.The British designer joined the Italian label in May 2017, succeeding Peter Dundas as creative director. However, rumours began to swirl last week (ends24Mar19) that Surridge …

Paul Surridge is leaving Roberto Cavalli after almost two years at the brand.

The British designer joined the Italian label in May 2017, succeeding Peter Dundas as creative director.

However, rumours began to swirl last week (ends24Mar19) that Surridge was looking to exit his post, and on Monday (25Mar19), he took to Instagram to confirm his plans.

“I have given much consideration to this decision and reached the conclusion that the mission I have signed has changed and enters a new direction with a new perspective (sic),” he wrote. “I now wish to focus on other projects that I put aside in order to achieve our common goals with Roberto Cavalli Group. It has been an honour to work for this iconic Florentine company with a unique heritage. I want to thank everyone who has made this journey possible, the internal teams and especially Gian Giacomo Ferraris who has given me outstanding support and will remain a mentor.”

Representatives for Roberto Cavalli Group and chief executive officer Gian Giacomo Ferraris have yet to comment on Surridge’s departure.

In the days leading up to the designer’s exit, editors at WWD reported that his decision was due to a lack of investment in the development and refurbishment of the store network, as well as in marketing and communications. He was also alleged to have been unhappy about the level of support offered to the design team.

“The decision last summer to look for an external investor and, more recently, to not provide any more funding have made the original project impossible, and therefore triggered Paul’s decision to look elsewhere,” one source divulged to the fashion publication.

Prior to joining Cavalli, Surridge predominantly worked in the menswear departments for labels including Prada, Burberry, Calvin Klein, and Jil Sander. In June 2018, the designer unveiled a full menswear line for Roberto Cavalli, and most recently showed a collection as part of Milan Fashion Week in February.

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Fendi celebrates Karl Lagerfeld with tribute T-shirt

Fendi has celebrated former creative director for fur and women’s ready-to-wear, Karl Lagerfeld, with the launch of a new T-shirt that honours the late designer.The JoKarl Fashion Show T-shirt is available in short-sleeved and long-sleeved options, and…

Fendi has celebrated former creative director for fur and women’s ready-to-wear, Karl Lagerfeld, with the launch of a new T-shirt that honours the late designer.

The JoKarl Fashion Show T-shirt is available in short-sleeved and long-sleeved options, and comes in either a black or while base colour.

At the centre of the garment is an illustration by Italian artist Nico Vascellari, depicting Lagerfeld as the joker on a playing card complete with jester costume and his notorious dark sunglasses

On the long-sleeved edition, drawings of dice with Fendi’s FF logo line the sleeves, and the back of each style features a smaller version of the JoKarl card.

The T-shirts are priced between $590 (£449) and $690 (£525) for the short-sleeve and long-sleeve editions respectively and can be purchased now from Fendi’s online store.

Fendi had previously honoured the fashion legend at its Milan Fashion Week Fall/Winter 19 show last month (Feb19), which took place just two days after the star passed away following a battle with pancreatic cancer on 19 Feb.

Honouring the fashion legend, who’d been at the house since 1965, Silvia Venturini Fendi paid an emotional tribute to her late friend and colleague as the show closed, with a video playing out of Lagerfeld’s hand, decked out in his signature leather fingerless gloves, sketching the word Fendi out.

Chanel also paid tribute to Lagerfeld, who was creative director at the house, during its Paris Fashion Week Fall/Winter 19 presentation.

At the event, held at Paris’ Grand Palais, each seat bore an illustration of the late designer alongside brand namesake Coco Chanel, with the poignant words “the beat goes on…”.

The show was also preceded by a one-minute silence, after which the celebrated fashion star’s voice was heard over the venue’s tannoy, beginning the presentation.

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Paul Surridge rumoured to be leaving Roberto Cavalli

Paul Surridge is reportedly close to resigning from Roberto Cavalli.The English designer joined the label in 2017, succeeding Peter Dundas as creative director.However, sources have told WWD that Surridge is no longer happy in the role and is on the ve…

Paul Surridge is reportedly close to resigning from Roberto Cavalli.

The English designer joined the label in 2017, succeeding Peter Dundas as creative director.

However, sources have told WWD that Surridge is no longer happy in the role and is on the verge of walking away from Roberto Cavalli.

An insider claimed his decision comes down to a lack of investment in the development and refurbishment of the store network as well as in marketing and communications. He is also said to feel the design team has not been supported, as resources have been scarce.

“The decision last summer to look for an external investor and, more recently, to not provide any more funding have made the original project impossible, and therefore triggered Paul’s decision to look elsewhere,” one source divulged.

So far, there has been no official comment on the reports. Surridge enjoyed a career in menswear design before joining Roberto Cavalli, previously holding posts at Prada, Burberry, Calvin Klein, and Jil Sander.

Despite his history in men’s fashion, Roberto Cavalli chief executive officer Gian Giacomo Ferraris was confident Surridge was the perfect fit for the Italian label and commented at the time of his appointment: “I have worked with Paul, and I had the opportunity to appreciate his creative talent as well as his managerial abilities. Paul has a 360-degree vision on brands and branding. He is passionate, mature, and an amazing team player.”

In June 2018, Surridge unveiled a full menswear line for the label. He most recently showed as part of Milan Fashion Week in February.

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Rosamund Pike explains the importance of Armani clothes

Rosamund Pike favours Armani clothes because they allow her “true form” to be revealed.The English actress has her pick of designers when it comes to dressing for glitzy showbiz events, but you’ll often find her wearing pieces from Giorgio Armani’s nam…

Rosamund Pike favours Armani clothes because they allow her “true form” to be revealed.

The English actress has her pick of designers when it comes to dressing for glitzy showbiz events, but you’ll often find her wearing pieces from Giorgio Armani’s namesake label.

She sat front row at the designer’s Milan Fashion Week show on Saturday (23Feb19), and opened up about why she’s such a big fan of the Italian label.

“At Armani, there’s a way the clothes follow the body that means your true form is revealed,” she enthused to The Guardian. “I felt that the first time I ever put on a pair of Armani trousers when I did my Bond film. I thought: ‘this works for my body'”.

The Gone Girl actress was in a tailored black suit for the Fall/ Winter 19 presentation, and was joined by Naomi Watts and Austin Mahone at the show.

She also spoke about the importance of clothes as a whole.

“Clothes have their own energy. They should never feel like costume. You should be able to buy into the energy of a good suit or a wonderful dress. Wearing them should feel effortless,” she smiled.

Elsewhere on Saturday, Glenn Close was feted at Armani’s Beverly Hills boutique ahead of Sunday night’s Oscars.

Samuel L. Jackson, Jeff Goldblum and Sara Sampaio were among the stars who turned out for the stylish event, which was held after Close scooped the Best Female Lead at the Film Independent Spirit Awards.

“Mr. Armani was the first designer to work with me,” she said to the Los Angeles Times.

Close, who lost out to Olivia Colman for the Best Actress Oscar, added to WWD: “The first important blazer I bought was a black, double-breasted Armani, it was in the Eighties when they had those amazing shoulders. And then the first fancy dress I borrowed was from Armani, for the first Kennedy Center honours I went to (in 1984). I still have the blazer. I probably have all my Armani suits because all through the ’90s, that’s all that I wore.”

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Dolce & Gabbana deliver new season elegance in Milan

Dolce & Gabbana showed off its new breed of elegance during Milan Fashion Week on Sunday (24Feb19).Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana appear to have banished all big name models and social media influencers from their catwalk, and following o…

Dolce & Gabbana showed off its new breed of elegance during Milan Fashion Week on Sunday (24Feb19).

Designers Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana appear to have banished all big name models and social media influencers from their catwalk, and following on from the fallout surrounding their culturally insensitive campaign which saw Chinese model Zuo Ye attempting to eat Italian food with chopsticks, the duo simply let their clothes do the talking in the Italian fashion capital.

Models were sent down the runway in beautiful brocades, heavily embellished dresses, flowing tulle and beautifully cut suits.

“I think, after all the sportswear and sneakers, everybody’s lost the idea of elegance,” Dolce said before the show, according to Vogue. “When we work with the new generations, we now understand that tuxedos and brocades are aspirational to them. At first they were asking if they could have the sportswear, but eventually they wanted the tailoring.”

There was a procession of pieces, from sweeping silk jackets to mini capes, trimmed with fluffy material, giving the collection an Old Hollywood feel, as well as numerous garments in Dolce & Gabbana’s go-to leopard print.

Five bridalwear looks also made their way down the catwalk, ranging from a three-tiered gown to a puffy baby doll dress.

“Our message is the human touch,” Gabbana shared. “Elegance is an old word, so we strive to find a new kind of elegance. Today everybody wears sneakers, so maybe that’s the new elegance. We take the tailoring from the past and use it in big trousers with sneakers.”

Paris Fashion Week begins on Monday, with shows from Rokh, Ottolinger and Jacquemus.

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Angela Missoni declares she is tired of streetwear

Angela Missoni and Roberto Cavalli’s Paul Surridge have both turned their back on streetwear.Missoni and Roberto Cavalli’s Fall/ Winter 19 collections were unveiled during Milan Fashion Week on Saturday (23Feb19), with both fashion houses showcasing pr…

Angela Missoni and Roberto Cavalli’s Paul Surridge have both turned their back on streetwear.

Missoni and Roberto Cavalli’s Fall/ Winter 19 collections were unveiled during Milan Fashion Week on Saturday (23Feb19), with both fashion houses showcasing print-heavy looks.

Talking before her show, Missoni revealed to Vogue that she was done with streetwear.

“I’m going back into something cleaner and more elegant,” she said. “I’m tired of streetwear and sportswear.”

Surridge had a similar mindset when it came to designing his latest line for Roberto Cavalli.

His show in Milan was full of high-end leather pieces, swirling prints and his take on the label’s signature animal prints.

“I think it’s about the protection of luxury,” he mused. “With the mania of logo and sneakers, maybe we went too far down a road.

“We’ve been so engulfed and saturated in urban sportswear and sophisticated leisure that it’s now about self-protection for the industry: going back to a product that’s hard to replicate, whose quality is hard to match, which feels loved when you touch it.”

And on Sunday, Dolce & Gabbana designer Domenico Dolce highlighted that the younger generation want more than just sporty options when it comes to their clothes.

“When we work with the new generations, we now understand that tuxedos and brocades are aspirational to them. At first they were asking if they could have the sportswear, but eventually they wanted the tailoring,” he said.

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Ferragamo boss insists fashion house is not for sale

The chairman of Salvatore Ferragamo has shut down rumours that the brand is for sale.According to editors at The Business of Fashion, sales at the luxury clothing and accessories company fell last year (18). And shares have fallen 43 per cent since the…

The chairman of Salvatore Ferragamo has shut down rumours that the brand is for sale.

According to editors at The Business of Fashion, sales at the luxury clothing and accessories company fell last year (18). And shares have fallen 43 per cent since their peak in 2015.

However, following the death of matriarch Wanda Ferragamo in October at the age of 96, they surged upwards amid speculation that the founding family would welcome a takeover. But chairman Ferruccio Ferragamo has insisted the brand would remain in the family.

“I’m in love with this company and it’s not for sale,” Ferragamo told BoF backstage at the brand’s Fall/ Winter 19 show at Milan Fashion Week on Saturday. “There’s a lot of energy in the brand. We have a lot of programs coming to turn that energy into good news in the coming weeks and months.”

His comments come as Ferragamo’s womenswear creative director, Paul Andrew, was promoted to the role of creative director at the luxury goods company.

“The idea is to reinforce the coherence and the consistency throughout the brand,” said chief executive officer Micaela Le Divelec Lemmi, who described the British designer’s promotion as “a natural evolution”.

Ferragamo’s silk scarves and Vara pumps have long been popular but the brand has struggled to gain a share of the online market and to attract younger luxury shoppers. But despite the downturn, Ferragamo’s Chinese retail sales recently jumped 7.6 per cent in the final quarter in a potential early sign of a turnaround.

“We have a very loyal customer base that I can’t ignore,” Andrew said backstage after the show. “I have to keep them engaged while we try to bring in a new generation.”

The brand also plans to boost the visibility of the ready-to-wear clothing collections in stores to create a more immersive experience for customers.

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