Off-White continues reign as world’s hottest brand

Off-White has once again been crowned the most sought-after brand in the world.The label, founded by designer Virgil Abloh in 2012, is known for its stylised streetwear-inspired items which feature the use of quotation marks, zip ties, and industrial b…

Off-White has once again been crowned the most sought-after brand in the world.

The label, founded by designer Virgil Abloh in 2012, is known for its stylised streetwear-inspired items which feature the use of quotation marks, zip ties, and industrial buckles, with celebrity fans including Gigi and Bella Hadid, JAY-Z, and Nicki Minaj.

Now, analysts have compiled data from the fashion platform Lyst for the first quarter of 2020 and reported that Off-White has come out on top in relation to global Lyst and Google search data, conversion rates and sales, as well as social media mentions and engagement statistics worldwide. The brand also topped The Lyst Index for the previous two quarters.

Balenciaga, helmed by creative director Demna Gvasalia, was the runner-up, while sportswear giant Nike landed in third place.

Other luxury brands in the top 10 included Prada, Moncler, Fendi, Valentino, Versace, Saint Laurent, Burberry, and Jacquemus.

“Jacquemus enters The Lyst Index of hottest brands ranking for the first time, with the label’s accessories having previously made the hottest products section,” a Lyst spokesperson commented. “The French brand climbs seven places to reach 15th position, after its supermodel-heavy fall/winter 2020 show boosted social media mentions by over 1,100 per cent. The other new entrants this quarter are Thom Browne and Rick Owens, both eponymous labels of U.S. designers, each with a distinctive and consistent aesthetic.”

Meanwhile, face masks have seen a huge spike in interest, having been worn by the likes of Billie Eilish and rappers Travis Scott and Future on the red carpet at recent events, as well as in light of the global coronavirus crisis.

“The coronavirus pandemic has seen more labels enter the mask market, and a 496 per cent surge in searches for fashion face masks over the quarter. Millions of shoppers worldwide are searching for masks by Off-White, as well as by Fendi, Bape and Marcelo Burlon,” they continued.

Other popular accessories include Loewe’s Eln fleece zip sweater, a Gucci x Disney hooded sweatshirt, and Bottega Veneta’s padded Cassette bag.

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Jean Paul Gaultier taps Sacai to design next couture collection

Jean Paul Gaultier has selected Sacai’s Chitose Abe to design the next haute couture line for his namesake fashion house.Back in January, the French designer announced his retirement plans in a statement posted to social media, and later staged his fin…

Jean Paul Gaultier has selected Sacai’s Chitose Abe to design the next haute couture line for his namesake fashion house.

Back in January, the French designer announced his retirement plans in a statement posted to social media, and later staged his final catwalk spectacle at the Theatre du Chatelet as part of Paris Couture Week.

However, Gaultier confirmed on Wednesday that he would be adopting a guest designer model going forward, with Abe to be the first fashion star tapped to create a collection.

“I have the pleasure to announce the new concept for my haute couture,” he posted on Instagram. “Each season, I will invite a designer to interpret the codes of the House and I am doubly pleased that Chitose Abe of @sacaiofficial will be the first one!”

Japanese designer Abe founded Sacai in 1999. She has since built up a reputation for breaking down barriers between casual and formal clothing, and has teamed up with the likes of The North Face, Apple, and Nike on various projects.

Abe also posted a snap of herself and Gaultier posing in matching blue boiler suits on a Paris rooftop on her Instagram page.

“I have a long-held admiration for Jean Paul’s unique vision of subversive femininity and his originality, both of which I’ve strived towards in my work since the beginning,” the designer said in a statement, according to WWD. “It’s a true honour to be given the opportunity to be custodian of his house as the first designer of this project.”

The next Paris Couture Week is set to take place between 5 and 9 July.

Of late, bosses at fashion houses such as Moncler and Pucci have also embraced the guest designer business model.

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Jonathan Anderson tapped to create Moncler Genius line

Jonathan Anderson has been added to Moncler Genius’ roster of designers.The designer, who serves as creative director of his own label JW Anderson and Spanish fashion house Loewe, is to create garments for the lifestyle brand’s annual drop of capsule c…

Jonathan Anderson has been added to Moncler Genius’ roster of designers.

The designer, who serves as creative director of his own label JW Anderson and Spanish fashion house Loewe, is to create garments for the lifestyle brand’s annual drop of capsule collections.

“The Moncler Genius creative hub evolves and announces its 2020 line-up welcoming JW Anderson with his arrestingly clever vision of gender-defying fashion,” a Moncler representative said. “The Northern Irish designer brings a unique design aesthetic that offers a modern interpretation of masculinity and femininity through a cross-pollination of menswear and womenswear.”

Anderson will be joining Sergio Zambon and Veronica Leoni for 2 Moncler 1952, Sandro Mandrino for 3 Moncler Grenoble, Simone Rocha, Craig Green, Matthew Williams of 1017 ALYX 9SM, Fragment Hiroshi Fujiwara, Richard Quinn, and Poldo Dog Couture, in working with the company.

In addition, designers at Moncler are collaborating with the team at luggage brand Rimowa on a “bold new travel concept”.

Moncler chief executive officer Remo Ruffini has achieved great success with the guest designer model, which was first introduced three years ago, with company leaders thrilled with the ongoing interest.

“The values are solid and the shapes change constantly. It is a place where contemporary shapers of culture belonging to the world beyond Moncler are invited, in order to have other points of view on what the house stands for. Rapidity is the key,” they added. “The needs and the tastes of contemporary customers change at lightning speed. Fashion itself endlessly changes and morphs: Moncler Genius is a seismographer, and this is why it is always in flux.”

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Off-White continues reign as world’s hottest brand

Off-White has once again been crowned the most sought-after brand in the world.The label, founded by designer Virgil Abloh in 2012, is known for its stylised streetwear-inspired items which feature the use of quotation marks, zip ties, and industrial b…

Off-White has once again been crowned the most sought-after brand in the world.

The label, founded by designer Virgil Abloh in 2012, is known for its stylised streetwear-inspired items which feature the use of quotation marks, zip ties, and industrial buckles, with celebrity fans including Bella Hadid, JAY-Z, and Nicki Minaj.

Now, analysts have compiled data from the fashion platform Lyst for the fourth quarter of 2019 and reported that Off-White has come out on top in relation to global Lyst and Google search data, conversion rates and sales, as well as social media mentions and engagement statistics worldwide. The company also topped The Lyst Index for the previous quarter.

Gucci, helmed by creative director Alessandro Michele, was the runner-up, while Balenciaga landed in third place.

Other luxury brands in the top 10 included Versace, Fendi, Prada, Valentino, and Burberry, though the most surprising leap in rankings came from Moncler.

Nabbing the fourth spot, executives at the lifestyle label have found success over the past three years by harnessing a guest designer roster, which has included capsule collections from the likes of Simone Rocha, Craig Green, and Richard Quinn.

Meanwhile, Gucci’s logo belt was once again the hottest in the list of women’s products, with Amina Muaddi’s Gilda heels taking second place.

“As seen on Kendall Jenner and Hailey Bieber, Muaddi’s Gilda heels sparked an average of 60,500 monthly searches between October and December, while the brand saw a 73 per cent rise in views,” a Lyst spokesperson commented.

Other popular accessories include Prada’s Monolith boots, a scarf from Acne Studios, Spanx’s faux leather leggings, Balenciaga’s Hourglass top handle bag, and the UGG Scuffette II slippers.

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Will Smith tapped by Moncler for first fashion campaign

Will Smith has teamed up with Moncler for his first-ever fashion campaign. The Independence Day actor has been tapped by executives at the Italian brand to front their Genius Is Born Crazy campaign, and in the first image, shot by photographer Tim Wal…

Will Smith has teamed up with Moncler for his first-ever fashion campaign.

The Independence Day actor has been tapped by executives at the Italian brand to front their Genius Is Born Crazy campaign, and in the first image, shot by photographer Tim Walker, the 50-year-old can be seen levitating in a seated position while wearing a red Moncler down parka, white T-shirt and silver trousers.

“When I got the call from @Moncler that they wanted me to be THE FACE of a FASHION campaign I was like… ‘These jokaz must be CRAZY (sic),'” Will shared on Instagram. “I’ve always dug their gear. So I listened to their ideas. Then I was like… ‘That might be GENIUS.’ I started pondering the Relationship between Crazy & Genius and I got more & more intrigued. Real Dreamers ALWAYS get called Crazy! I started to wonder… ‘Are Geniuses born Crazy?! Or can we all get some? 🙂 #GENIUSISBORNCRAZY (sic).”

The star also shared the campaign image and video on his Instagram account as well as behind-the-scenes footage from the photoshoot, which showed him walking about backstage in a variety of different outfits, joking around with the crew and his daughter Willow Smith, and getting pampered as he sits cross-legged on a high stool, which has been edited out for the finished image.

“I believe in the power of crazy, and I always give a chance to a crazy dream,” said Moncler chief executive officer Remo Ruffini in a statement. “The magic often happens somewhere beyond the ordinary, in the exploration of new horizons that only (a) few see, before others follow. Long live the craziest intuitions when rigor and dedication are there to make them happen.

“It’s an honour to have Will Smith, in his first advertising fashion campaign, embracing our ‘crazy’ idea to celebrate the genius hidden within everyone.”

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Richard Quinn and Matthew Williams tapped to create Moncler Genius lines

Richard Quinn and Matthew Williams have been added to Moncler Genius’ roster of designers.London-based star Quinn, who won the inaugural Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design last year (18), and Williams, known for his 1017 ALYX 9SM label, will b…

Richard Quinn and Matthew Williams have been added to Moncler Genius’ roster of designers.

London-based star Quinn, who won the inaugural Queen Elizabeth II Award for British Design last year (18), and Williams, known for his 1017 ALYX 9SM label, will both present collections for the Italy-based apparel company in Milan on 20 February.

Regarding the idea for tapping rising fashion talent for limited-edition collections, chairman and chief executive officer Remo Ruffini, explained that the business model acknowledges the diversity of the contemporary customer in the digital era.

“Moncler Genius is an answer to the times, a symposium of creative minds and an inspiring place. Each Genius operates singularly, and the sum of the Geniuses interprets the Moncler identity,” he said in a statement. “Different rooms house different visions, all of them shaping the global Moncler message and the Moncler Genius Building contains them all.”

Quinn and Williams will join other established Moncler Genius designers at the show, including Sergio Zambon and Veronica Leoni for Moncler 1952, Sandro Mandrino for Moncler Grenoble, Simone Rocha, Craig Green, Hiroshi Fujiwara, Palm Angels’ Francesco Ragazzi, and Poldo Dog Couture.

There will also be a line from Valentino creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli and model Liya Kebede.

Last year, Piccioli made a splash with his Moncler Genius collection, with the line including includes zip-up hooded capes, padded duvet-like coats, and basic down jackets, while the accompanying campaign featured models posing in settings evocative of Medieval Madonna paintings. Actor Ezra Miller also hit headlines when he stepped out at the premiere of Fantastic Beasts: The Crimes of Grindelwald in Paris in November sporting a daring black coat with matching hood and gloves from the line.

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Pierpaolo Piccioli focused on keeping Valentino ‘relevant’

Pierpaolo Piccioli is determined to keep Valentino “relevant” by embracing inclusivity.The Italian fashion designer has acted as the luxury house’s artistic director since July 2016, after his long-time creative partner Maria Grazia Chiuri decamped to …

Pierpaolo Piccioli is determined to keep Valentino “relevant” by embracing inclusivity.

The Italian fashion designer has acted as the luxury house’s artistic director since July 2016, after his long-time creative partner Maria Grazia Chiuri decamped to Christian Dior.

While Valentino is known for its dramatic dresses and extravagant accessories, Piccioli has now discussed how he is planning to modernise the label, which was founded by 86-year-old Valentino Garavani in 1960.

“Every luxury brand has to become more inclusive. If you remain in your exclusive field, you’re not relevant enough for this moment,” he told Business of Fashion. “I want to take Valentino from a brand of exclusivity to a brand that becomes more relevant to today. I’m keeping the values of the house but taking it in a more inclusive direction that embraces different communities.”

One way in which Piccioli is experimenting with collaboration is with his new Genius collection for outwear company Moncler.

The line includes zip-up hooded capes, padded duvet-like coats and basic down jackets, with the accompanying campaign featuring models dressed in the items while posing in settings evocative of Medieval Madonna paintings.

And while he enjoyed working with a variety silhouettes for the range, he admitted that the technical fabrics proved to be challenging.

“Material is like a language, it’s the essence of a brand,” the designer added. “The team at Moncler has a different kind of mind. Everything is structured to be really worn and not just perfect. I didn’t want to lose that authenticity.”

The first drop of Piccioli’s Moncler line is now available to buy online and in selected boutiques.

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Valentino and Moncler join forces on outerwear collaboration

Valentino and Moncler have teamed up to create a new range of outerwear.The collaboration has been overseen by Valentino’s creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli and consists of an exclusive collection of coats for both men and women. Designs appear to…

Valentino and Moncler have teamed up to create a new range of outerwear.

The collaboration has been overseen by Valentino’s creative director Pierpaolo Piccioli and consists of an exclusive collection of coats for both men and women.

Designs appear to be distinctly Moncler, which is best known for its luxurious down jackets, but have been customised with elements akin to the Italian fashion house, which even featured two of the garments in its pre-fall 2018 collections in January (18).

The coats feature heritage designs from Valentino’s history, such as the iconic tiger print created by the brand’s founder Valentino Garavani. This particular pattern has been applied to a quilted, hooded, knee-length coat as a graphic print in either green, pink or black.

While another offering from the range sees Piccioli’s Valentino logo – the letters VLTN – printed in white font across the back of a black quilted jacket.

A men’s coat of the same design features the signature logo across the back and sides of the garment.

In addition to outerwear, the two labels have also collaborated on accessories, creating studded, quilted shoulder bags in red, black and taupe, each with a gold chain strap.

The Valentino With Moncler collection is already available to purchase on the official Valentino website, with prices starting from $2,095 (£1,355) for a handbag and ending at $4,200 (£2,500) for the embroidered tiger re-edition quilted down coat. The pieces can also be bought in select Valentino boutiques.

Piccioli was one of eight new designers tapped by Moncler for its Genius design team in February.

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Shayne Oliver designs capsule collection for Diesel’s new project

Diesel has tapped Hood By Air’s Shayne Oliver as the first designer for its new Red Tag Project.Hot on the heels of Moncler’s Genius initiative, which has seen eight top designers join the label for eight new lines, Italian label Diesel has announced a…

Diesel has tapped Hood By Air’s Shayne Oliver as the first designer for its new Red Tag Project.

Hot on the heels of Moncler’s Genius initiative, which has seen eight top designers join the label for eight new lines, Italian label Diesel has announced a similar idea.

The brand will be working with influential designers, who will create capsule collections that will be distributed exclusively by selected retailers worldwide.

Oliver has designed 10 looks, which Diesel will debut in Paris on Saturday (03Mar18).

“I love denim’s heritage and its American roots, as well as Diesel’s Italian core,” Oliver said in a statement. “This capsule is really the language of Renzo (Rosso), the brand founder. Refined razor-sharp denim aesthetics that devours the excesses of trendiness.”

Streetwear brand Hood By Air is currently on hiatus, though Oliver has been keeping busy by teaming with other brands, including Helmut Lang and now Diesel.

Talking about the new project, Rosso, explained how each designer will interpret the fashion house’s offerings.

“This is a vibrant moment for Diesel: we are working on a series of global initiatives, one of which is this with the most groundbreaking and radical international designers, like Shayne,” he added. “The new generations are excited and engaged by beautiful products that have a soul and speak the language of today.”

Rosso is no stranger to pushing the boundaries of fashion, and recently set up a Diesel knock-off store in New York’s Canal Street selling genuine garments that looked fake, thanks to the misspelled DEISEL logo splashed across denim, sweatshirts, caps, and T-shirts.

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Pierpaolo Piccioli tapped as part of Moncler’s new design supergroup

Pierpaolo Piccioli, Simone Rocha and Craig Green are among the eight new designers tapped by Moncler for its Genius design team.Following the departures of Giambattista Valli and Thom Browne from the Italian label’s Gamme Rouge and Gamme Bleu lines in …

Pierpaolo Piccioli, Simone Rocha and Craig Green are among the eight new designers tapped by Moncler for its Genius design team.

Following the departures of Giambattista Valli and Thom Browne from the Italian label’s Gamme Rouge and Gamme Bleu lines in November (17), Moncler has now unveiled a new design team initiative.

There will now be eight lines under the Moncler umbrella, headed up by Valentino designer Piccioli, Rocha, Green, Karl Templer, Sandro Mandrino, Kei Ninomiya, Hiroji Fujiwara and Francesco Ragazzi.

“A couple of years ago I saw this world is really changing,” said brand owner Remo Ruffini, according to Vogue.com. “This world is really much more fast. I don’t think there are seasons anymore, and I don’t think that shows (that look forward) six months’ time really help with the customer. And I said we have to do something new, I wanted to change the model of the business.”

A Moncler Genius show will be held on 20 February (18) at the Moncler Genius Building in Milan, the night before the city’s Fashion Week kicks off.

Talking about his new design job, Piccioli shared his excitement.

“The spirit of the project is something daring: It emphasises the value of creativity and talent,” he praised. “It is something challenging for me to work with totally different materials and the totally different DNA of the brand. Yes, it was like stretching my legs. The other designers are very interesting. But I said yes at the very beginning before I knew who they were. I’ve known Remo for some time, and I appreciate his way of thinking and managing the company.”

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