Michael Kors unveils plans to show S/S21 line

Michael Kors has announced how he’ll showcase his next collection, after deciding to forgo New York Fashion Week in September.The Fashion Week favourite revealed in June that he would be sitting out the spring/ summer 21 shows, explaining how he had …

Michael Kors has announced how he’ll showcase his next collection, after deciding to forgo New York Fashion Week in September.

The Fashion Week favourite revealed in June that he would be sitting out the spring/ summer 21 shows, explaining how he had long thought the fashion calendar needed shaking up.

Kors has now shared his future plans, which centre around a “multi-layered digital experience” on 15 October.

“The aim in shifting dates is to allow the consumer to see and engage with the fall collection, which arrives in store in September, before presenting a brand new season to the consumer,” he said in a statement.

The line will first be shown to journalists on 14 October via “intimate presentations… live and via video appointments”. The following day it will be rolled out across the Michael Kors social network platforms.

“It is key for us to be able to bring our collection to life and translate that in-person runway show experience as best as possible to the digital world. To ensure the press and consumers alike are able to view the clothes and accessories in detail, virtually, is my top priority,” Kors added.

Marc Jacobs, Ralph Lauren and Tommy Hilfiger are among the other big name designers who have confirmed they will not be staging live shows in September.

© Cover Media

Victoria Beckham restructuring label amid coronavirus downturn

Victoria Beckham is restructuring her brand and going “back to basics” as the label tries to recover from the coronavirus downturn.The designer has decided to show just one collection a season for her eponymous signature line and her affordable Victori…

Victoria Beckham is restructuring her brand and going “back to basics” as the label tries to recover from the coronavirus downturn.

The designer has decided to show just one collection a season for her eponymous signature line and her affordable Victoria Victoria Beckham line, and starting next year, the collections will be available in stores.

And as a result of the restructuring, less than 20 per cent of the workforce – around 20 jobs – will be lost, mainly from the production side of the business at Beckham’s atelier in London.

There are also plans to add more denim and casual wear to the brands, according to WWD, and as a result, average selling prices of the Victoria Beckham line will be reduced.

The aim of the overhaul is to enable customers to buy a full wardrobe from the designer’s eponymous collection.

“It feels very relevant now to take things back to basics. It has fostered great energy and a real sense of creativity amongst the teams,” she said in a statement, noting that she and her team are looking at downscaling their upcoming presentation for New York Fashion Week in September.

“I’m really excited about revisiting the intimate approach to showing collections that I had when I first started the business,” she added.

Her spokesperson said that Beckham is considering art gallery locations where up to 20 people at a time could view her new collection, but that would be scrapped if there was a second wave of Covid-19 infections.

© Cover Media

CFDA cut New York Fashion Week to three days

Bosses at the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) have made the decision to cut short the upcoming New York Fashion Week.Typically, the biannual event takes place over an eight-day period, with various runways and presentations staged across…

Bosses at the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) have made the decision to cut short the upcoming New York Fashion Week.

Typically, the biannual event takes place over an eight-day period, with various runways and presentations staged across the city.

However, in light of the global coronavirus pandemic, bosses have made the decision to cut the fashion event down to three days.

In a notice sent to members, the spring/summer 21 showcase will run from 14 to 16 September, with the option to add the 17th as a supplement day if the schedule demands it, reports WWD.

The dates for the next NYFW are still officially listed as 11 to 16 September.

However, members have reportedly been told the shorter calendar came about as a result of the “changes we have seen from live events to digital activations, and awareness of city regulations to protect the health and well-being of everyone”.

Some brands, like Marc Jacobs and Michael Kors, have already stated they are skipping the next Fashion Week. For the shows that go ahead, there will be no live audiences.

Discussing the change, Mark Beckham, vice president of marketing and events for CFDA, told the fashion title: “We can fit the same amount of shows in to three days because of no need for travel time in between the shows. The three days of shows is only for this season as a result of Covid-19.”

He further noted the impact of the pandemic on production and budgets “may cause some designers to skip this season”.

© Cover Media

Riccardo Tisci calls for fashion weeks to be ‘reimagined’

Italian fashion designer Riccardo Tisci believes fashion weeks need to be “reimagined for the world we live in now”. The coronavirus crisis has forced key figures in the industry to re-evaluate their participation in the annual fashion calendar, with …

Italian fashion designer Riccardo Tisci believes fashion weeks need to be “reimagined for the world we live in now”.

The coronavirus crisis has forced key figures in the industry to re-evaluate their participation in the annual fashion calendar, with Michael Kors recently deciding to host presentations outside of New York Fashion Week and to only release two collections per year.

On Monday, Burberry became the first big brand to set a date for spring/summer 21 fashion weeks, and in an interview with WWD, chief creative officer Tisci vouched for the continuing existence of them, but admitted they needed a modern update.

“I do not believe that fashion weeks are to be stopped, they just need to be reimagined for the world we live in now,” he explained. “You know, there is nothing like the experience of being at a fashion show — the energy in the room, the anticipation, excitement — it is something beautiful that I would not want to see lost.

“But we must recognise that the world is changing, and we must adapt and redefine our landscape through new forms of expression. Ultimately, to me, it will always be important to keep a physicality to fashion, to be able to see and understand the texture and movements of clothes, but in new ways.”

He added that “fashion has lost its sense of emotion” in the past few years and he believes this can be restored by “pulling collections back to their true essence”.

The English heritage label will host its spring/summer 2021 presentation in the British outdoors on the 17 September, and while the show will not have a physical audience, it will be available to watch digitally around the world.

London Fashion Week is due to begin on 18 September.

© Cover Media

Michael Kors opting out of New York Fashion Week

Michael Kors has opted out of this year’s New York Fashion Week.The fashion designer, who is usually a staple at the event in his native New York, has announced he will not be presenting his spring/summer 2021 collection during NYFW in September and wi…

Michael Kors has opted out of this year’s New York Fashion Week.

The fashion designer, who is usually a staple at the event in his native New York, has announced he will not be presenting his spring/summer 2021 collection during NYFW in September and will instead host a runway show between October and November.

In a statement announcing the news, Kors insisted the fashion industry calendar needs an overhaul.

“I have for a long time thought that the fashion calendar needs to change,” Kors said. “It’s exciting for me to see the open dialogue within the fashion community about the calendar – from Giorgio Armani to Dries Van Noten to Gucci to YSL to major retailers around the globe – about ways in which we can slow down the process and improve the way we work. We’ve all had time to reflect and analyse things, and I think many agree that it’s time for a new approach for a new era.

“It is imperative that we give the consumer time to absorb the fall deliveries, which will just be arriving in September, and not confuse them with an overabundance of additional ideas, new seasons, products, and images.”

Kors joins a number of designers who have called for a change to the industry schedule amid the coronavirus crisis, which led to the closure of stores and delayed production and deliveries on upcoming collections.

He continued to announce that he will only produce two collections per year – spring/summer and autumn/winter – for the Michael Kors Collection, with him eliminating resort and pre-fall collections.

The 60-year-old also plans to showcase his latest designs closer to when they will be delivered to the consumer as it “makes logical sense to me”.

“I think it is also important to return to the idea that September and March are key months in launching the beginning of seasonal selling for the consumer,” he explained. “Keeping all of this in mind, we will also be reassessing when the fall collection is released to the press and the public – most likely sometime between mid-March and mid-April.”

© Cover Media

Marc Jacobs vows to be ‘better ally’ following cultural appropriation claims

Marc Jacobs has vowed to keep “listening and learning” after he was called out in a social media post for cultural appropriation.Back in 2016, the designer caused controversy when models including Gigi Hadid and Irina Shayk wore hand-dyed wool dreadloc…

Marc Jacobs has vowed to keep “listening and learning” after he was called out in a social media post for cultural appropriation.

Back in 2016, the designer caused controversy when models including Gigi Hadid and Irina Shayk wore hand-dyed wool dreadlocks during his show held as part of New York Fashion Week.

Jacobs was heavily criticised at the time, and was again chastised when he recently commented on an Instagram post uploaded by fashion watchdog account, Diet Prada.

After viewing the video of Kyla Lacey for Write About Now Poetry, the 57-year-old praised the performance, which discussed white privilege.

“I’m listening. I’m learning. This poem, and this human is extraordinary in every way,” Jacobs wrote, before he was called out by several followers in the comments section.

“We need to know what you do once you’ve HEARD. listening is not enough,” one stated, while another asked: “Didn’t one of your seasons appropriate black culture? Remember the dreads? The black community does.”

“I made a mistake. I didn’t listen when I was being corrected,” Jacobs replied. “I was insensitive and wrong with my response. I know better know. I keep listening and learning.”

The fashion star also responded to a comment which asked him to expand the foundation shades in his Marc Jacobs Beauty line.

“We have expanded our shade range. We did that two years ago. Thank you for sharing your comments. I promise you I am doing my all I can to be a better allie (sic),” he added.

© Cover Media

Marc Jacobs only wants to produce two collections per year

Marc Jacobs is adamant it is time for the traditional fashion calendar to be streamlined.Following the restrictions put in place due to the coronavirus crisis earlier this year, the American fashion designer previously announced that he wouldn’t be cre…

Marc Jacobs is adamant it is time for the traditional fashion calendar to be streamlined.

Following the restrictions put in place due to the coronavirus crisis earlier this year, the American fashion designer previously announced that he wouldn’t be creating a collection for spring 2021 and had halted production on his fall/winter 2020 line, unveiled as part of New York Fashion Week in February, as he is too dependent on fabric imported from Italy.

And in a recent conversation for The Business of Fashion’s podcast, Jacobs revealed that he believes designers should now be making no more than two collections per year.

“I feel like that last show was very telling of what I was really thinking, but that doesn’t surprise me because all of the shows are somewhat autobiographical. I told the story of a New York that I remembered and I loved, and still love, but is gone. It had shades of all my heroes and my fashion life as a New Yorker,” he commented. “After every show I say, if this was the last show I did, I’d be fine with it. But… I was so emphatic about the last show and I felt like things have got to change. We have to slow down, we can do this twice a year. I would like to say something creatively, but I can do it twice a year. The idea of being forced to create something and tell a story constantly, when it has no meaning, it has no soul, has no authenticity or credibility, it just seems so vacant.”

Jacobs went on to explain that he will be pushing the industry to become much more sustainable as he is sick of seeing unused products and fabrics ending up in landfills.

And while the fashion star is continuing to design throughout the Covid-19 lockdown, he admitted the whole scenario is impacting his mental health.

“There are days where I feel extremely depressed, I feel like it’s the end of the world, and there are days when I’m manic and I think, ‘What a great opportunity for us all to learn, collectively from this,'” the 57-year-old added.

© Cover Media

Pyer Moss unveils plans for drive-in New York Fashion Week event

Pyer Moss designer Kerby Jean-Raymond has announced plans to stage a drive-in event during New York Fashion Week.The Haitian-American designer, who founded his brand in 2013, confirmed on Monday that he will be unveiling his new feature film titled Ame…

Pyer Moss designer Kerby Jean-Raymond has announced plans to stage a drive-in event during New York Fashion Week.

The Haitian-American designer, who founded his brand in 2013, confirmed on Monday that he will be unveiling his new feature film titled American, Also in the Big Apple in September before holding multiple drive-in screenings in cities across the U.S. so fans can view it from the safety of their vehicles amid the ongoing coronavirus crisis.

Jean-Raymond did not share exactly when or where the premieres will be held.

And while he won’t be debuting a fashion collection at this time, there will be some specific “drops” of clothing available to buy at the events.

“It’s always been our mission to show the amount of thinking and labouring that goes behind putting together a collection – we’ve been slowing down the speed of how much we produce and improving the quality of what we produce throughout the years,” Jean-Raymond told Vogue. “This film aims to show the love and care our entire company puts into every single moment we create and will show that we appreciate fashion as an art form and communication tool that we’ve used to embolden a community around us.”

American, Also delves into the preparation the designer undertook in the lead-up to the release of his spring 2020 show held at the Kings Theatre in Flatbush, Brooklyn.

Earlier this month, Jean-Raymond stated in an interview with Simon Porte Jacquemus and Marni creative director Francesco Risso for Vogue’s Global Conversations series that he has no plans to hold a fashion show until at least 2021, but still believes there is a place in the world for such spectacles.

“None of us would be here without fashion week. When the halo brands have a show during a specific (time frame), smaller brands can piggyback off of that because they know everyone is in town,” he stated. “I do think the concept of the show has to change… But it’s an entry point that is so important for young designers.”

© Cover Media

Paris Couture Week cancelled amid coronavirus crisis

Paris Couture Week and Paris Fashion Week: Men’s have been cancelled amid the coronavirus pandemic.France is one of the nations most affected by the spread of Covid-19, with an estimated 40,000 reported cases and approximately 2,600 deaths. In light of…

Paris Couture Week and Paris Fashion Week: Men’s have been cancelled amid the coronavirus pandemic.

France is one of the nations most affected by the spread of Covid-19, with an estimated 40,000 reported cases and approximately 2,600 deaths.

In light of the crisis and lockdown of citizens, representatives for the Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode have confirmed the two upcoming events have been scrapped.

“In light of the spread of the Covid-19 epidemic worldwide, strong decisions are required to ensure the safety and health of Houses, their employees and everyone working in our industry,” they said in a statement. “Consequently, the Board of Directors of the Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode has come to the decision that, in the present conditions, Paris Fashion Week: Men’s, scheduled from June 23rd to June 28th, 2020, and the Haute Couture Week scheduled from July 5 to July 9, 2020, cannot take place.”

However, the spokesperson insisted members of the federation are “actively working” with designers and fashion houses to find possible alternatives.

In addition to presentations from Chanel and Dior, the next Paris Couture Week was to feature the highly anticipated return of Balenciaga to the schedule.

Meanwhile, executives at the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) have also confirmed that the resort 2021 shows lined up for the middle of the year have been scrapped.

“The CFDA has been carefully following the developments of Covid-19, while providing information and resources to help the industry move forward during this most challenging time,” they commented. “With that in mind, the CFDA has decided to cancel the official NYFW: Resort 2021 schedule of presentations. The decision was based on the current global situation, the ongoing uncertainty regarding its impact on retailers and their open-to-buys, and designers’ challenges in producing collections at this moment.”

© Cover Media

Anna Wintour applauds Tom Ford for staging fashion show in Los Angeles

Anna Wintour has commended Tom Ford for staging his latest fashion show in Los Angeles.Steering clear of the New York Fashion Week calendar, the American designer unveiled his fall/winter 2020 collection at Milk Studios in early February, just days bef…

Anna Wintour has commended Tom Ford for staging his latest fashion show in Los Angeles.

Steering clear of the New York Fashion Week calendar, the American designer unveiled his fall/winter 2020 collection at Milk Studios in early February, just days before the Academy Awards.

The spectacle included top models such as Gigi Hadid and Kendall Jenner, and in a new chat for her Go Ask Anna video series, Wintour praised Ford’s bold move.

“First and foremost, I want to applaud Tom Ford for showing in Los Angeles, because I totally reject the idea that everybody always has to do the same thing and show in the same way. We’re an industry that’s meant to be about change, so why don’t we change more often?” she mused. “So, taking his super glamorous show with his super glamorous audience to Los Angeles, I thought, was genius. The show was exciting and vibrant… and every woman there wanted every dress on the runway.”

Wintour attended numerous presentations over the course of Fashion Month, with her other top picks including the Marni, Louis Vuitton, and JW Anderson shows. She also loved the inventive Marc Jacobs show held at the Park Avenue Armory as part of New York Fashion Week, with the spectacle drawing in the likes of Naomi Campbell, Sofia Coppola, and Nicki Minaj, and featuring a performance from Karole Armitage and her troupe of dancers.

“He surprised us all by having sort of a cabaret setup. The whole space was filled with an army of Karole Armitage dancers and models mixing in with each other. You weren’t sure who was a dancer and who was a model. It was a very joyful, intimate and exhilarating experience,” the 70-year-old added.

© Cover Media