Bruno Sialelli named Lanvin’s new creative director

Bruno Sialelli has been appointed as Lanvin’s new creative director.The French fashion house has been in a state of flux since the departure of long-serving creative director Alber Elbaz in late 2015, with Lucas Ossendrijver, Bouchra Jarrar, and Olivie…

Bruno Sialelli has been appointed as Lanvin’s new creative director.

The French fashion house has been in a state of flux since the departure of long-serving creative director Alber Elbaz in late 2015, with Lucas Ossendrijver, Bouchra Jarrar, and Olivier Lapidus, among the names who’ve held the post of head designer for brief stints.

But executives for Lanvin, which is now owned by Fosun Fashion Group, announced on Monday (21Jan19) that Sialelli will be taking over the artistic direction of the label.

“I am delighted and honoured to join Lanvin, a house founded by a visionary woman who among the first French couturiers dared to offer a global universe with a very wide field of expression,” he said in a statement. “Bringing emotions through compelling stories and defining a modern attitude are going to be exciting challenges in continuing this legacy.”

A relative unknown in the fashion world, Sialelli most recently acted as director of menswear design at Spanish heritage brand Loewe.

Previously, he gained extensive experience as pre-collection womenswear designer at Balenciaga, working under both Nicolas Ghesquiere and Alexander Wang, before becoming senior womenswear designer at Acne Studios, and then at Paco Rabanne.

Regarding Sialelli’s appointment, Lanvin’s chief executive officer Jean-Philippe Hecquet explained that he was confident the rising star would be able to introduce his own flair to upcoming collections whilst also remaining respectful of the house’s “iconic” codes, as established by company founder Jeanne Lanvin.

“We’re thrilled to welcome Bruno as the new creative director of Lanvin,” commented Hecquet. “His singular and very personal vision, his audacity, his culture, his energy and ability to build a strong creative team definitely convinced us. I can’t wait to discover Bruno’s first collections which will fully bring back to life this beautiful and unique fashion house, and once again inspire a passion among our customers.”

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Lucas Ossendrijver exiting Lanvin – report

Lucas Ossendrijver is reportedly leaving Lanvin after nearly 13 years at the brand.Editors at WWD report that the Dutch designer will bow out after presenting the pre-collection to buyers at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris. When contacted, the head of men…

Lucas Ossendrijver is reportedly leaving Lanvin after nearly 13 years at the brand.

Editors at WWD report that the Dutch designer will bow out after presenting the pre-collection to buyers at the Palais de Tokyo in Paris.

When contacted, the head of menswear gave nothing away, stating he was still at the house would make “no further comment for the moment”.

A source told WWD the label is expected to pull out from the runway calendar for the upcoming Paris Fashion Week: Men’s in January.

It marks the latest shake-up at the luxury French fashion house. Since the departure of long-term womenswear creative director Alber Elbaz in late 2015, who left following disagreements with Lanvin’s former majority shareholder Shaw-Lan Wang, there has been a revolving door of designers helming the women’s collections.

Elbaz, who’d been at the label for 14 years, was immediately succeeded by Bouchra Jarrar, who lasted in the role for a little over a year. Next in was Olivier Lapidus, but he departed after only eight months, leaving in March (18).

Lanvin has yet to appoint a new womenswear designer, though it was reported in October that former Loewe employee Bruno Sialelli was being lined up.

Ossendrijver earned his fashion stripes at Kenzo and Dior Homme before he joined Lanvin in 2006. He previously praised working with Elbaz as he celebrated his 10th anniversary at the brand.

“You know those 10 years have been quite formative for me,” Ossendrijver mused to Matches Fashion. “Working with Alber, I learned such a great deal of things. Spending 10 years working with someone in fashion is an eternity. It’s quite rare.”

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Designer Bruno Sialelli in talks to join Lanvin – report

Loewe designer Bruno Sialelli is reportedly in talks to join Lanvin in a key role.The French luxury fashion house has been in a state of flux since the departure of long-serving creative director Alber Elbaz in late 2015, with Lucas Ossendrijver, Bouch…

Loewe designer Bruno Sialelli is reportedly in talks to join Lanvin in a key role.

The French luxury fashion house has been in a state of flux since the departure of long-serving creative director Alber Elbaz in late 2015, with Lucas Ossendrijver, Bouchra Jarrar, and, most recently, Olivier Lapidus, among the names who’ve held the post of head designer for brief stints.

But according to editors at WWD, Lanvin bosses are in negotiations with Sialelli to take over the role of creative director. However, neither Lanvin executives nor Sialelli have yet commented on the speculation.

A rising star in the fashion industry, Sialelli has helmed the menswear department at Spanish heritage brand Loewe since March 2016.

Before that, he worked in womenswear at Paco Rabanne, as well as at Acne Studios, Balenciaga and Azzedine Alaia. His LinkedIn profile also states that he studied at the Studio Bercot fashion school in Paris in from 2008 until 2010.

In recent months, designers floated as potential successors for Lapidus have included former Berluti designer Haider Ackermann and Simon Porte Jacquemus.

Since executives at Chinese conglomerate Fosun acquired a majority stake in Lanvin in February, revamping the design team has been a major focus, with new chief executive officer Jean-Philippe Hecquet tasked with finding fresh talent.

And in August, former Louis Vuitton employee Hecquet explained that he was committed to finding the right people as part of a new strategy.

“Clearly our objective and our goals are very ambitious, and the road may be a bit bumpy. It’s never easy to bring back to life a luxury brand… I don’t take it as an easy project,” he told Business of Fashion. “My role and the role of the executive committee will really be to bring back the confidence, to bring back the positive vibes.”

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Lanvin CEO sets sights on new designer

New Lanvin chief executive Jean-Philippe Hecquet has admitted that the road to success may be bumpy.Hecquet officially begins his duties on Tuesday (28Aug18), though has a tough task ahead of him as the luxury label is currently without a womenswear de…

New Lanvin chief executive Jean-Philippe Hecquet has admitted that the road to success may be bumpy.

Hecquet officially begins his duties on Tuesday (28Aug18), though has a tough task ahead of him as the luxury label is currently without a womenswear designer.

Since the departure of long-serving creative director Alber Elbaz in 2015, there has been a revolving door of head designers at Lanvin, with Lucas Ossendrijver, Bouchra Jarrar, and, most recently, Olivier Lapidus, among those to have come and gone.

“Clearly our objective and our goals are very ambitious, and the road may be a bit bumpy,” Hecquet told Business of Fashion. “It’s never easy to bring back to life a luxury brand… I don’t take it as an easy project.”

Names currently floated as potential successors include former Berluti designer Haider Ackermann and Simon Porte Jacquemus, but a selection has yet to be made.

“The number one priority is, of course, to bring back the creativity,” he continued, adding that the company is “looking at a lot of talent”.

Elbaz, who himself is making a slow return to fashion, was pushed out by former label owner, Taiwanese businesswoman Shaw-Lan Wang.

Lanvin has since changed hands, after Chinese conglomerate Fosun acquired a majority stake in the French brand in February. Former Louis Vuitton employee Hecquet is now looking to re-establish the once-loved fashion house.

“The life at Lanvin was not easy over the last year,” Hecquet said. “My role and the role of the executive committee will really be to bring back the confidence, to bring back the positive vibes.”

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Lanvin parts ways with artistic director Olivier Lapidus

Olivier Lapidus is leaving Lanvin after an eight-month stint at the label.The French designer took over from Bouchra Jarrar as creative director at the fashion house last July (17) but is now stepping down from the position, with immediate effect. Lap…

Olivier Lapidus is leaving Lanvin after an eight-month stint at the label.

The French designer took over from Bouchra Jarrar as creative director at the fashion house last July (17) but is now stepping down from the position, with immediate effect.

Lapidus showcased his sophomore line for the brand during Paris Fashion Week in February, and until his successor is named, the womenswear collections will be designed by an in-house team.

“Olivier steered the Maison through a transitional period between ownerships,” Joann Cheng, president of Fosun Fashion Group and chair of the board of directors of Lanvin, told WWD. “We thank him for that, and wish him every success for his own brand and future endeavours.”

Lapidus’ departure marks one of the first major moves by the brand’s new executives, as Chinese firm Fosun International acquired majority control in the company just last month. Former investors Shaw-Lan Wang and Ralph Bartel retain minority stakes.

Lanvin is also parting ways with general manager Nicolas Druz, who has been with the company since 2017. He will now take up the new position of managing director of Fosun Fashion Group, where he will support the conglomerate’s business expansion in Europe.

“The re-launch of Lanvin with fresh talents, while adhering to the values that the brand has maintained since 1889, is fundamental to returning the Maison to its rightful position at the top table of the world’s most lauded and innovative fashion houses,” Cheng added.

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Lanvin showcases colour blocking and tailored silhouettes for fall 18

Lanvin’s latest collection is comprised of colour blocked numbers and tailored silhouettes.The French luxury fashion house debuted its fall/winter 2018 collection as part of Paris Fashion Week on Wednesday (28Feb18), with designer Olivier Lapidus incor…

Lanvin’s latest collection is comprised of colour blocked numbers and tailored silhouettes.

The French luxury fashion house debuted its fall/winter 2018 collection as part of Paris Fashion Week on Wednesday (28Feb18), with designer Olivier Lapidus incorporating layered outfits accompanied by plenty of accessories.

Orange pieces recurred throughout the catwalk show, with models showcasing garments such as tight leather-look trousers and a silk dress worn over a red turtleneck sweater. Yellow and blue were side by side in several ensembles, including a golden double-zipped blouse paired with high-waisted, cobalt ombre trousers and an indigo ruffled top layered over a long-sleeved sweater and matching pants.

Many of the outfits were by tied together with outerwear, with Lapidus flaunting an orange biker jacket as well as a classic beige trench with a leather collar, and a bright pink silk coat that was worn alongside a clashing neon yellow bag and matching gloves.

However, the line also consisted of lots of black material, as seen in sheer flowing dresses and an ankle-length coat and trouser combination, which the model displayed alongside a white turtleneck and head scarf.

Several of the ensembles were accessorised with dark eyewear, thick belts, and leather gloves, while lace-up boots, androgynous brogues, and classic, pointed courts were the footwear of choice.

Meanwhile, fellow brand Maison Margiela put on a more futuristic show for its fall/winter 2018 collection, with models sporting metallics and see-through plastic garments.

The majority of models had their heads concealed by hoods and carried oversized bags in blue, yellow and metallic materials. Transparent plastic was added over black pencil skirts and lemon coloured coats, while knitted cardigans and sweater vests were other prominent features of the line, which was designed by John Galliano.

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Chinese investment fund takes controlling stake in Lanvin

Chinese investment company Fosun is taking control of Lanvin.The French luxury fashion house was founded by Jeanne Lanvin in 1889 and acquired by Taiwanese media magnate Shaw-Lan Wang in 2001, with the businesswoman having a 75 per cent stake. Lanvin …

Chinese investment company Fosun is taking control of Lanvin.

The French luxury fashion house was founded by Jeanne Lanvin in 1889 and acquired by Taiwanese media magnate Shaw-Lan Wang in 2001, with the businesswoman having a 75 per cent stake.

Lanvin has been in turmoil since the shock exit of head designer Alber Elbaz in late 2015, with it reported in November (17) that Wang was planning to push more money into the business to help reposition the brand, though that didn’t happen, and Fosun, which owns France’s Club Med, Britain’s Thomas Cook Group, and clothing label St. John, has now snapped up the label.

“Fosun’s understanding of the brand and strong track record in the European and global market, including their successful partnership and transformational strategies with Club Med, Tom Tailor and many others, make us believe that Fosun is the right long-term strategic partner to team up with,” said Lanvin’s managing director Nicolas Druz in a statement.

Earlier this month, it was reported that executives at Fosun and Mayhoola, the investment firm run by the Qatari royal family which oversees companies such as Pal Zileri, Balmain and Valentino, were interested in taking over Lanvin.

However, Fosun has won out, and according to Reuters, the group will invest around $123 million (£88 million /100 million euros) in the business, with Wang and Swiss investor Ralph Bartel retaining minority stakes.

“As China becomes the main growth driver of the global luxury market, we are confident that Fosun can bring great incremental value to Lanvin with our global resources and expertise, while being absolutely committed to Lanvin’s high luxury positioning and its exceptional quality of products manufactured in France and Italy,” added Joann Cheng, vice chief financial officer of Fosun International.

Elbaz’s successors include Bouchra Jarrar and Olivier Lapidus, who joined the label last July and presented his first collection during Paris Fashion Week in September.

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Major investment funds seeking to acquire stake in Lanvin – report

Two major investment funds are reportedly seeking to acquire a stake in Lanvin.The French luxury fashion house was founded by Jeanne Lanvin in 1889, and is now run by Taiwanese media magnate Shaw-Lan Wang, who has a 75 per cent stake. Lanvin has been …

Two major investment funds are reportedly seeking to acquire a stake in Lanvin.

The French luxury fashion house was founded by Jeanne Lanvin in 1889, and is now run by Taiwanese media magnate Shaw-Lan Wang, who has a 75 per cent stake.

Lanvin has been in turmoil since the shock exit of head designer Alber Elbaz in late 2015, with it reported in November (17) that Wang was planning to push more money into the business to help reposition the brand – though that is yet to happen – and Reuters is now reporting that executives at Mayhoola and Fosun are interested in the company.

Both investment funds already have interests in the fashion industry with Mayhoola, the Qatari royal family’s fund, having invested in companies such as Pal Zileri, Balmain and Valentino.

While Chinese conglomerate and investment fund Fosun controls France’s Club Med, Britain’s Thomas Cook Group, clothing label St John and jeweller Folli Follie. Company executives also recently announced plans to acquire Italian lingerie label La Perla.

Representatives for Lanvin, Mayhoola and Fosun are yet to comment on the report.

In December, Lanvin’s managing director Nicolas Druz, a close advisor to Wang, told Reuters that he was confident that leaders would be able to solve financial issues and “revive the development of the company”.

It is not known if Wang is still looking to invest in the Paris-based label, and Druz recently shared that he was pushing ahead with plans to reboot eveningwear and wedding categories, as well as expand accessory lines and lifestyle products.

Elbaz’s successors include Bouchra Jarrar and then Olivier Lapidus, who joined the label in July and presented his first collection during Paris Fashion Week in September.

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