Viktor & Rolf delve into ’emotional rollercoaster’ of current Covid times for couture show

Viktor & Rolf proved couture can perfectly reflect current times with its fall/winter 20 collection.Shown digitally this Paris Couture Week season, owing to the Covid-19 pandemic, designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren presented nine looks, broken …

Viktor & Rolf proved couture can perfectly reflect current times with its fall/winter 20 collection.

Shown digitally this Paris Couture Week season, owing to the Covid-19 pandemic, designers Viktor Horsting and Rolf Snoeren presented nine looks, broken up into three groups of three similar designs; a satin dress in the style of a night gown, a wrap dress which looks like a super chic dressing gown, and a high-fashion overcoat.

In a video narrated by singer Mika, which was shot in the Waldorf Astoria in Amsterdam, titled change, viewers were treated to a masterful fashion extravaganza.

The first three looks, which reflect “a rather sombre mood… a feeling of sadness and anger, familiar to many these days” said Mika, comprised of blue satin empire cut dress decorated with rain clouds, a grey chenille wrap gown with sumptuous black quilted detailing and a billowing faux leather coat covered in giant spikes.

Next were the dresses that represent the confusion at this strange time in history; a pink satin number featuring large face emojis, a fuzzy pink dressing gown with canary yellow touches and giant bows down one arm and another overblown jacket, this time switched from black to pink and the spikes replaced with colourful cylinders poking out.

Finally, closing the show was the dreamy love and hope section, made up of a white satin dress with a simple heart motif, a white short-sleeved quilted and belted robe featuring giant love hearts over each pocket, and a wide trench-style coat adorned with pink and red hearts running from the shoulders to the hem.

“The subject is the emotional rollercoaster that we all experienced and are experiencing,” Snoeren said, reports WWD. “We are discussing a little bit mental health and how to dress for your emotions, as well to say that all emotions are valid and necessary.”

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Chanel presents ’80s-inspired couture

Chanel served up punk princess vibes for its new couture collection on Tuesday.Showing on the second day of digital Paris Couture Week, Virginie Viard presented a line full of punky party dresses, reimagined tweed looks and billowing ball gowns. Viard,…

Chanel served up punk princess vibes for its new couture collection on Tuesday.

Showing on the second day of digital Paris Couture Week, Virginie Viard presented a line full of punky party dresses, reimagined tweed looks and billowing ball gowns.

Viard, the successor of Chanel legend Karl Lagerfeld, explained how the late designer was at the forefront of her thoughts when she created the showstopping looks.

“I was thinking about a punk princess coming out of Le Palace at dawn. With a taffeta dress, big hair, feathers and lots of jewellery,” she wrote in the show notes. “This collection is more inspired by Karl Lagerfeld than Gabrielle Chanel. Karl would go to Le Palace, he would accompany these very sophisticated and very dressed up women, who were very eccentric too.”

The 30 designs are a world away from Chanel’s spring couture offerings, which had much sleeker and straighter silhouettes.

“I like working like this, going in the opposite direction of what I did last time. I wanted complexity, sophistication,” she said.

Standout looks from the fall collection include a sumptuous tiered, black, long-sleeved dress worn by Adut Akech which looked straight out of the ’80s, a floor-length dress in an opulent teal hue featuring dramatic sleeves, and a silver scalloped dress with a neat peplum.

“It’s an eccentric girl with a touch of the ’80s. I wanted something joyful,” Viard told WWD. “It makes me think of images I have of (Lagerfeld) with friends before I knew him, when he would often host balls, dinner and parties. People would really dress up.”

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Naomi Campbell opens Paris Couture Week with powerful speech about diversity

Naomi Campbell opened the first-ever digital Paris Couture Week on Monday by calling on the fashion industry to do more to embrace diversity. In a video message, the supermodel issued a call to action towards industry leaders, urging them to use the m…

Naomi Campbell opened the first-ever digital Paris Couture Week on Monday by calling on the fashion industry to do more to embrace diversity.

In a video message, the supermodel issued a call to action towards industry leaders, urging them to use the momentum of the Black Lives Matter movement to make permanent changes to promote diversity, inclusivity and equality.

“The fight for diversity and for equality has been a long journey in society and in the fashion industry,” the supermodel said while wearing a sleeveless top which read “Phenomenally Black”. “Today, in 2020, we still have a long way to go and the time has come to collectively call the fashion world to task regarding inequality in our workspaces and in our industry.

“It is up to us, it is up to you to start enforcing inclusion of the multitude of identities that compose our countries… It is now more than ever compulsory to include them in a permanent way and not a transient one. It is time to have regular and sustainable conversations with minorities of each countries and cultures, who are already invisible actors of this mega industry.

“It starts now in France. I am Naomi Campbell and I declare Paris Couture Fashion Week ouvert (open). Merci (thank you).”

The first day of Paris Couture Week comprised of digital presentations from Dior, Schiaparelli, Giambattista Valli, featuring Joan Smalls, and Iris Van Herpen, featuring Game of Thrones actress Carice van Houten, among others.

Chanel is among the labels showing on day two.

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Maria Grazia Chiuri: ‘Couture craftsmanship can’t be lost during digital shows’

Maria Grazia Chiuri made sure the craftsmanship of couture wasn’t lost during Dior’s digital Paris Couture Week presentation by creating miniature versions of her designs.Dior was one of the first labels to show at the first-ever digital version of the…

Maria Grazia Chiuri made sure the craftsmanship of couture wasn’t lost during Dior’s digital Paris Couture Week presentation by creating miniature versions of her designs.

Dior was one of the first labels to show at the first-ever digital version of the fashion spectacular, which was forced to move online because of the coronavirus pandemic.

Aware that important aspects of couture could get lost in the move, Chiuri opted to make tiny versions of her latest work, as well as present a film directed by Matteo Garrone. She took inspiration from the Théâtre de la Mode, a 1945 travelling exhibition of miniature collections that promoted French fashion in the aftermath of the Second World War.

“The Théâtre de la Mode was an important reference because it promoted culture around the world at a very difficult time,” she explained to Vogue France. “It was a way for designers and artists to come together and say tradition of couture was alive in Paris. I have made 37 designs on miniature mannequins to scale, which are presented in a trunk that will be sent around the world to our couture clients.

“During this time, we have spoken a lot about digital. Digital is important, but at the same time, there is artisanal work and details that are not possible to see in a video or photo. With couture, you have to be able to feel the material and see the garment on the body. Craftsmanship is an important tradition that could be lost at this difficult time.”

Alongside the tiny dresses, which are 40 per cent smaller than their original size, clients will also receive a real-size toile so they can try the pieces on.

For the designs themselves, Chiuri drew on the work of several female surrealist artists, including photographer Lee Miller and artist Leonora Carrington.

“During the pandemic, we have been thinking more, reflecting more, dreaming more. Surrealism makes you dream and so should couture,” she shared.

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Paris Couture Week cancelled amid coronavirus crisis

Paris Couture Week and Paris Fashion Week: Men’s have been cancelled amid the coronavirus pandemic.France is one of the nations most affected by the spread of Covid-19, with an estimated 40,000 reported cases and approximately 2,600 deaths. In light of…

Paris Couture Week and Paris Fashion Week: Men’s have been cancelled amid the coronavirus pandemic.

France is one of the nations most affected by the spread of Covid-19, with an estimated 40,000 reported cases and approximately 2,600 deaths.

In light of the crisis and lockdown of citizens, representatives for the Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode have confirmed the two upcoming events have been scrapped.

“In light of the spread of the Covid-19 epidemic worldwide, strong decisions are required to ensure the safety and health of Houses, their employees and everyone working in our industry,” they said in a statement. “Consequently, the Board of Directors of the Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode has come to the decision that, in the present conditions, Paris Fashion Week: Men’s, scheduled from June 23rd to June 28th, 2020, and the Haute Couture Week scheduled from July 5 to July 9, 2020, cannot take place.”

However, the spokesperson insisted members of the federation are “actively working” with designers and fashion houses to find possible alternatives.

In addition to presentations from Chanel and Dior, the next Paris Couture Week was to feature the highly anticipated return of Balenciaga to the schedule.

Meanwhile, executives at the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) have also confirmed that the resort 2021 shows lined up for the middle of the year have been scrapped.

“The CFDA has been carefully following the developments of Covid-19, while providing information and resources to help the industry move forward during this most challenging time,” they commented. “With that in mind, the CFDA has decided to cancel the official NYFW: Resort 2021 schedule of presentations. The decision was based on the current global situation, the ongoing uncertainty regarding its impact on retailers and their open-to-buys, and designers’ challenges in producing collections at this moment.”

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Jean Paul Gaultier taps Sacai to design next couture collection

Jean Paul Gaultier has selected Sacai’s Chitose Abe to design the next haute couture line for his namesake fashion house.Back in January, the French designer announced his retirement plans in a statement posted to social media, and later staged his fin…

Jean Paul Gaultier has selected Sacai’s Chitose Abe to design the next haute couture line for his namesake fashion house.

Back in January, the French designer announced his retirement plans in a statement posted to social media, and later staged his final catwalk spectacle at the Theatre du Chatelet as part of Paris Couture Week.

However, Gaultier confirmed on Wednesday that he would be adopting a guest designer model going forward, with Abe to be the first fashion star tapped to create a collection.

“I have the pleasure to announce the new concept for my haute couture,” he posted on Instagram. “Each season, I will invite a designer to interpret the codes of the House and I am doubly pleased that Chitose Abe of @sacaiofficial will be the first one!”

Japanese designer Abe founded Sacai in 1999. She has since built up a reputation for breaking down barriers between casual and formal clothing, and has teamed up with the likes of The North Face, Apple, and Nike on various projects.

Abe also posted a snap of herself and Gaultier posing in matching blue boiler suits on a Paris rooftop on her Instagram page.

“I have a long-held admiration for Jean Paul’s unique vision of subversive femininity and his originality, both of which I’ve strived towards in my work since the beginning,” the designer said in a statement, according to WWD. “It’s a true honour to be given the opportunity to be custodian of his house as the first designer of this project.”

The next Paris Couture Week is set to take place between 5 and 9 July.

Of late, bosses at fashion houses such as Moncler and Pucci have also embraced the guest designer business model.

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Olivier Theyskens named creative director of Azzaro

Olivier Theyskens has been appointed the creative director of French fashion house Azzaro.The Belgian designer launched his namesake brand back in 1998, but shuttered the line after four years to take up stints at Rochas, Nina Ricci, and Theory. Theysk…

Olivier Theyskens has been appointed the creative director of French fashion house Azzaro.

The Belgian designer launched his namesake brand back in 1998, but shuttered the line after four years to take up stints at Rochas, Nina Ricci, and Theory.

Theyskens rebooted his own label in 2016, and after several seasons showing in Paris, he has now been tapped by bosses to reinvigorate the company founded by Loris Azzaro in 1967.

“Loris Azzaro left behind a considerable, very inspiring legacy,” he said in a statement. “I am excited, thrilled and honoured to have the opportunity of bringing my vision to this legendary, iconoclastic House, for which freedom and pleasure remain ever-as-contemporary founding values. I would like to carry on this atypical universe through my collections while infusing them with my own perspective.”

Theyskens, known for his dark yet romantic aesthetic and use of the colour black, will unveil his debut line for Azzaro during Paris Couture Week in July.

In addition to overseeing the brand’s workshop in the French capital, he will continue to work on collections for his own fashion house.

Accordingly, Azzaro’s chief executive officer, Gabriel de Linage, is excited to see what the 43-year-old brings to the label.

“His renowned talent, experience and creative vision will empower the house’s future with spirit and sparkle,” he praised. “Olivier Theyskens has a unique ability to immerse himself in a legacy and to revisit it in a contemporary verve. His fondness for asserted sensuousness and the flowing contrasts of materials and cuts naturally echo the style of Loris Azzaro and his emblematic muses. We are thrilled to welcome him to our house and to our historical workshops.”

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Paris Jackson ‘will never forget’ walking in Jean Paul Gaultier’s final show

Paris Jackson will “never forget” making her runway debut at Jean Paul Gaultier’s final couture show.The French designer announced his retirement plans earlier this month and went out with a bang by holding a star-studded party-like fashion presentatio…

Paris Jackson will “never forget” making her runway debut at Jean Paul Gaultier’s final couture show.

The French designer announced his retirement plans earlier this month and went out with a bang by holding a star-studded party-like fashion presentation during Paris Couture Week last week.

Models such as Irina Shayk, Gigi and Bella Hadid, and Karlie Kloss took to the runway at the Theatre du Chatelet, but the most surprising member of the catwalk line-up was Paris, who rocked a ’60s-inspired bohemian chic look which was comprised of a printed robe with a long train, a psychedelic patterned top, colourful snakeskin trousers, and wedge platform sandals.

Speaking to Miss Vogue about the experience, the actress/musician confessed how nervous she was during the casting process and just before her walk.

“I was very nervous during the casting, but once I had the final look on it felt pretty natural,” she explained. “I had been doing a few walks for Jean Paul when he said, ‘I’ll see you tomorrow.’ I almost screamed out of excitement, as that was his way of letting me know I got it. The whole experience is one I’ll never forget.

“I was very nervous during the moments leading up to the walk, but once I stepped out there, all the anxiety faded away. The rush I got afterwards was similar to the one I get when I get off stage after performing with my band.”

Paris, who is the daughter of Michael Jackson, shared that she hopes to do more catwalk shows in the future and will always be grateful for being part of such an epic fashion moment.

“I’m truly grateful to have been a part of such a memorable and legendary night that will most definitely go down in fashion history,” the 21-year-old added.

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Maria Grazia Chiuri inspired by motherhood for latest Dior couture line

Maria Grazia Chiuri was inspired by the relationship between art and motherhood when designing her latest couture line for Dior.The creative director of the French fashion house unveiled her spring/summer 2020 collection at the Musee Rodin as part of P…

Maria Grazia Chiuri was inspired by the relationship between art and motherhood when designing her latest couture line for Dior.

The creative director of the French fashion house unveiled her spring/summer 2020 collection at the Musee Rodin as part of Paris Couture Week last week, with the range featuring dresses influenced by ancient Greek clothing, coats made with delicate embroidery, and finely pleated skirts. Regarding her sources of inspiration, mother-of-two Chiuri has now explained that she looked to the work of artist Judy Chicago, as well as a number of other feminist texts and concepts.

“The starting point for this project was the relationship between art and motherhood. I read a book that I found very interesting – La Mamma by Harald Szeemann – in which he reflected on the role women play and their creativity. It seems like a paradox but there’s this idea that women, because they are mothers, can reproduce but not produce,” she said in a backstage video for Elle U.K. “Of course, as the first woman to head a house like Dior, but also as a mother, these elements are very important. Studying this type of reference made me see that on the contrary, in ancient times, women were almost seen as goddesses with their own strengths. But this goddess-like quality isn’t only related to motherhood, it has different aspects. I’ve tried to bring these elements to the collection.”

In addition, Chiuri was careful to choose a colour palette that reflected her various themes.

“I also chose colours inspired by divinity, using gold and a palette that references (glasswork technique) millefiori. Millefiori is also a very important element, in my opinion very closely linked to the history of Dior,” the 55-year-old insisted.

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Erin O’Connor pens ‘love letter’ to Jean Paul Gaultier

Erin O’Connor has written a “love letter” to fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier.The French icon announced his retirement plans in a statement posted to social media last weekend, and on Wednesday night, staged his final catwalk show at the Theatre du …

Erin O’Connor has written a “love letter” to fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier.

The French icon announced his retirement plans in a statement posted to social media last weekend, and on Wednesday night, staged his final catwalk show at the Theatre du Chatelet as part of Paris Couture Week.

A number of top models made appearances on the catwalk, including Karen Elson, Coco Rocha, and Karlie Kloss, as did O’Connor – who posted an emotional note to Gaultier on Instagram following the spectacle.

“A love letter. I was told (nearly a quarter of a century ago) that a meeting with you was like meeting the Wizard of Oz,” she wrote alongside a slideshow of images from her various collaborations with the fashion star. “How wrong that person was… You are more human than humanly possible. Your love of clothes, people and LOVE has become an integral part of fashions DNA (sic). You are the back bone and soul for so many of us across the world who have been guided, nurtured and inspired by you. Thank you for teaching me the importance of self-acceptance and expression (and the importance of promoting it) – I shall never forget it. Like so many others I am so glad to know you and feel really very fortunate to be your pal.”

During the extravaganza, O’Connor sported three different looks, including a head-to-toe white ensemble, a black gown with feather detailing, and an elegant black dress.

Uploading footage of herself on the catwalk, the 41-year-old added: “Where there is love there is light! Honoured to join you for your last-ever show dear friend @jpgaultierofficial. Huge love to you et (and) JPG family! I’ll never forget our time together… Merci (Thank you).”

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