Paris Couture Week cancelled amid coronavirus crisis

Paris Couture Week and Paris Fashion Week: Men’s have been cancelled amid the coronavirus pandemic.France is one of the nations most affected by the spread of Covid-19, with an estimated 40,000 reported cases and approximately 2,600 deaths. In light of…

Paris Couture Week and Paris Fashion Week: Men’s have been cancelled amid the coronavirus pandemic.

France is one of the nations most affected by the spread of Covid-19, with an estimated 40,000 reported cases and approximately 2,600 deaths.

In light of the crisis and lockdown of citizens, representatives for the Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode have confirmed the two upcoming events have been scrapped.

“In light of the spread of the Covid-19 epidemic worldwide, strong decisions are required to ensure the safety and health of Houses, their employees and everyone working in our industry,” they said in a statement. “Consequently, the Board of Directors of the Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode has come to the decision that, in the present conditions, Paris Fashion Week: Men’s, scheduled from June 23rd to June 28th, 2020, and the Haute Couture Week scheduled from July 5 to July 9, 2020, cannot take place.”

However, the spokesperson insisted members of the federation are “actively working” with designers and fashion houses to find possible alternatives.

In addition to presentations from Chanel and Dior, the next Paris Couture Week was to feature the highly anticipated return of Balenciaga to the schedule.

Meanwhile, executives at the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) have also confirmed that the resort 2021 shows lined up for the middle of the year have been scrapped.

“The CFDA has been carefully following the developments of Covid-19, while providing information and resources to help the industry move forward during this most challenging time,” they commented. “With that in mind, the CFDA has decided to cancel the official NYFW: Resort 2021 schedule of presentations. The decision was based on the current global situation, the ongoing uncertainty regarding its impact on retailers and their open-to-buys, and designers’ challenges in producing collections at this moment.”

© Cover Media

Jean Paul Gaultier taps Sacai to design next couture collection

Jean Paul Gaultier has selected Sacai’s Chitose Abe to design the next haute couture line for his namesake fashion house.Back in January, the French designer announced his retirement plans in a statement posted to social media, and later staged his fin…

Jean Paul Gaultier has selected Sacai’s Chitose Abe to design the next haute couture line for his namesake fashion house.

Back in January, the French designer announced his retirement plans in a statement posted to social media, and later staged his final catwalk spectacle at the Theatre du Chatelet as part of Paris Couture Week.

However, Gaultier confirmed on Wednesday that he would be adopting a guest designer model going forward, with Abe to be the first fashion star tapped to create a collection.

“I have the pleasure to announce the new concept for my haute couture,” he posted on Instagram. “Each season, I will invite a designer to interpret the codes of the House and I am doubly pleased that Chitose Abe of @sacaiofficial will be the first one!”

Japanese designer Abe founded Sacai in 1999. She has since built up a reputation for breaking down barriers between casual and formal clothing, and has teamed up with the likes of The North Face, Apple, and Nike on various projects.

Abe also posted a snap of herself and Gaultier posing in matching blue boiler suits on a Paris rooftop on her Instagram page.

“I have a long-held admiration for Jean Paul’s unique vision of subversive femininity and his originality, both of which I’ve strived towards in my work since the beginning,” the designer said in a statement, according to WWD. “It’s a true honour to be given the opportunity to be custodian of his house as the first designer of this project.”

The next Paris Couture Week is set to take place between 5 and 9 July.

Of late, bosses at fashion houses such as Moncler and Pucci have also embraced the guest designer business model.

© Cover Media

Olivier Theyskens named creative director of Azzaro

Olivier Theyskens has been appointed the creative director of French fashion house Azzaro.The Belgian designer launched his namesake brand back in 1998, but shuttered the line after four years to take up stints at Rochas, Nina Ricci, and Theory. Theysk…

Olivier Theyskens has been appointed the creative director of French fashion house Azzaro.

The Belgian designer launched his namesake brand back in 1998, but shuttered the line after four years to take up stints at Rochas, Nina Ricci, and Theory.

Theyskens rebooted his own label in 2016, and after several seasons showing in Paris, he has now been tapped by bosses to reinvigorate the company founded by Loris Azzaro in 1967.

“Loris Azzaro left behind a considerable, very inspiring legacy,” he said in a statement. “I am excited, thrilled and honoured to have the opportunity of bringing my vision to this legendary, iconoclastic House, for which freedom and pleasure remain ever-as-contemporary founding values. I would like to carry on this atypical universe through my collections while infusing them with my own perspective.”

Theyskens, known for his dark yet romantic aesthetic and use of the colour black, will unveil his debut line for Azzaro during Paris Couture Week in July.

In addition to overseeing the brand’s workshop in the French capital, he will continue to work on collections for his own fashion house.

Accordingly, Azzaro’s chief executive officer, Gabriel de Linage, is excited to see what the 43-year-old brings to the label.

“His renowned talent, experience and creative vision will empower the house’s future with spirit and sparkle,” he praised. “Olivier Theyskens has a unique ability to immerse himself in a legacy and to revisit it in a contemporary verve. His fondness for asserted sensuousness and the flowing contrasts of materials and cuts naturally echo the style of Loris Azzaro and his emblematic muses. We are thrilled to welcome him to our house and to our historical workshops.”

© Cover Media

Paris Jackson ‘will never forget’ walking in Jean Paul Gaultier’s final show

Paris Jackson will “never forget” making her runway debut at Jean Paul Gaultier’s final couture show.The French designer announced his retirement plans earlier this month and went out with a bang by holding a star-studded party-like fashion presentatio…

Paris Jackson will “never forget” making her runway debut at Jean Paul Gaultier’s final couture show.

The French designer announced his retirement plans earlier this month and went out with a bang by holding a star-studded party-like fashion presentation during Paris Couture Week last week.

Models such as Irina Shayk, Gigi and Bella Hadid, and Karlie Kloss took to the runway at the Theatre du Chatelet, but the most surprising member of the catwalk line-up was Paris, who rocked a ’60s-inspired bohemian chic look which was comprised of a printed robe with a long train, a psychedelic patterned top, colourful snakeskin trousers, and wedge platform sandals.

Speaking to Miss Vogue about the experience, the actress/musician confessed how nervous she was during the casting process and just before her walk.

“I was very nervous during the casting, but once I had the final look on it felt pretty natural,” she explained. “I had been doing a few walks for Jean Paul when he said, ‘I’ll see you tomorrow.’ I almost screamed out of excitement, as that was his way of letting me know I got it. The whole experience is one I’ll never forget.

“I was very nervous during the moments leading up to the walk, but once I stepped out there, all the anxiety faded away. The rush I got afterwards was similar to the one I get when I get off stage after performing with my band.”

Paris, who is the daughter of Michael Jackson, shared that she hopes to do more catwalk shows in the future and will always be grateful for being part of such an epic fashion moment.

“I’m truly grateful to have been a part of such a memorable and legendary night that will most definitely go down in fashion history,” the 21-year-old added.

© Cover Media

Maria Grazia Chiuri inspired by motherhood for latest Dior couture line

Maria Grazia Chiuri was inspired by the relationship between art and motherhood when designing her latest couture line for Dior.The creative director of the French fashion house unveiled her spring/summer 2020 collection at the Musee Rodin as part of P…

Maria Grazia Chiuri was inspired by the relationship between art and motherhood when designing her latest couture line for Dior.

The creative director of the French fashion house unveiled her spring/summer 2020 collection at the Musee Rodin as part of Paris Couture Week last week, with the range featuring dresses influenced by ancient Greek clothing, coats made with delicate embroidery, and finely pleated skirts. Regarding her sources of inspiration, mother-of-two Chiuri has now explained that she looked to the work of artist Judy Chicago, as well as a number of other feminist texts and concepts.

“The starting point for this project was the relationship between art and motherhood. I read a book that I found very interesting – La Mamma by Harald Szeemann – in which he reflected on the role women play and their creativity. It seems like a paradox but there’s this idea that women, because they are mothers, can reproduce but not produce,” she said in a backstage video for Elle U.K. “Of course, as the first woman to head a house like Dior, but also as a mother, these elements are very important. Studying this type of reference made me see that on the contrary, in ancient times, women were almost seen as goddesses with their own strengths. But this goddess-like quality isn’t only related to motherhood, it has different aspects. I’ve tried to bring these elements to the collection.”

In addition, Chiuri was careful to choose a colour palette that reflected her various themes.

“I also chose colours inspired by divinity, using gold and a palette that references (glasswork technique) millefiori. Millefiori is also a very important element, in my opinion very closely linked to the history of Dior,” the 55-year-old insisted.

© Cover Media

Erin O’Connor pens ‘love letter’ to Jean Paul Gaultier

Erin O’Connor has written a “love letter” to fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier.The French icon announced his retirement plans in a statement posted to social media last weekend, and on Wednesday night, staged his final catwalk show at the Theatre du …

Erin O’Connor has written a “love letter” to fashion designer Jean Paul Gaultier.

The French icon announced his retirement plans in a statement posted to social media last weekend, and on Wednesday night, staged his final catwalk show at the Theatre du Chatelet as part of Paris Couture Week.

A number of top models made appearances on the catwalk, including Karen Elson, Coco Rocha, and Karlie Kloss, as did O’Connor – who posted an emotional note to Gaultier on Instagram following the spectacle.

“A love letter. I was told (nearly a quarter of a century ago) that a meeting with you was like meeting the Wizard of Oz,” she wrote alongside a slideshow of images from her various collaborations with the fashion star. “How wrong that person was… You are more human than humanly possible. Your love of clothes, people and LOVE has become an integral part of fashions DNA (sic). You are the back bone and soul for so many of us across the world who have been guided, nurtured and inspired by you. Thank you for teaching me the importance of self-acceptance and expression (and the importance of promoting it) – I shall never forget it. Like so many others I am so glad to know you and feel really very fortunate to be your pal.”

During the extravaganza, O’Connor sported three different looks, including a head-to-toe white ensemble, a black gown with feather detailing, and an elegant black dress.

Uploading footage of herself on the catwalk, the 41-year-old added: “Where there is love there is light! Honoured to join you for your last-ever show dear friend @jpgaultierofficial. Huge love to you et (and) JPG family! I’ll never forget our time together… Merci (Thank you).”

© Cover Media

Paris Jackson makes runway debut during Jean Paul Gaultier’s final show

Paris Jackson made her runway debut at Jean Paul Gaultier’s final show during Paris Couture Week on Wednesday night. The French fashion designer shocked fans last week when he announced that his Paris Couture Week presentation would be his last haute c…

Paris Jackson made her runway debut at Jean Paul Gaultier’s final show during Paris Couture Week on Wednesday night.

The French fashion designer shocked fans last week when he announced that his Paris Couture Week presentation would be his last haute couture runway, and he made sure he went out with a bang by turning the star-studded catwalk show at the Theatre du Chatelet into a party.

One of the most surprising additions to his line-up was Paris, daughter of the late Michael Jackson, who hit the runway in a ’60s-inspired bohemian chic look which was comprised of a printed robe with a long train, a psychedelic patterned top, colourful snakeskin trousers, and wedge platform sandals. She topped the look off with colourful beaded jewellery and a green headband.

The 21-year-old later shared footage of her walk on Instagram and wrote in the caption, “Absolutely honoured and deeply grateful @jpgaultierofficial.”

In the comments, Naomi Campbell gave her seal of approval by calling the look “beautiful”.

Burlesque star Dita Von Teese also brought a little celebrity glitter to the show, strutting the runway in a sexy outfit crafted from belts and a corset, while Culture Club singer Boy George performed during the finale.

Models including Gigi and Bella Hadid, Winnie Harlow, Irina Shayk, Karlie Kloss, and Joan Smalls all made an appearance, alongside Gaultier muses such as Karen Elson and Coca Rocha, who performed an Irish dance down the runway.

The event brought out many industry icons who wanted to catch Gaultier’s final fashion show too. Carla Bruni, Eva Herzigova, and fellow designer Christian Louboutin were among the famous faces in the audience.

Opening the show, the retiring Gaultier urged his fans to recycle their clothes, stating, “In my first show and this, my last, there are creations made with the jeans I’ve worn. It’s the most beautiful of materials. Like a lot of humans, it becomes even more beautiful as it gets older.”

© Cover Media

Coco Rocha recalls favourite Jean Paul Gaultier runway moment

Coco Rocha has named the time she walked the runway with her daughter Ioni Conran as her favourite Jean Paul Gaultier moment.The Canadian model made a splash in the fashion world when she did an Irish dance down the catwalk to open the French designer’…

Coco Rocha has named the time she walked the runway with her daughter Ioni Conran as her favourite Jean Paul Gaultier moment.

The Canadian model made a splash in the fashion world when she did an Irish dance down the catwalk to open the French designer’s Scottish Highlands-inspired fall/winter 2007 spectacle.

But while Rocha often reflects fondly on the event, in a post on Instagram ahead of Gaultier’s final show as part of Paris Couture Week on Wednesday night, she noted that her most special show was when she was joined by Ioni, then aged two, in January 2018.

“People ask me what was my favourite Jean Paul Gaultier runway moment which is kind of an impossible question because I’m so lucky to have been a part so many amazing ones,” she wrote. “For me, the most special runway was in 2018 when I walked couture with my daughter @ioniconran who was 2 at the time and pregnant with (my son Iver Conran) also. It’s a story I know I’ll be talking to Ioni about in 15 years, and my grandchildren in 30 years.”

In a separate post, Rocha opened up about how people still ask her about what it was like to Irish dance in a Gaultier show. And she revealed that the fashion icon left her to choreograph a number merging elements of Irish and Scottish dance.

“I’d walked in quite a few fashion shows before, but this was the first time I’d done any kind of special ‘performance’. Would people like it or think it was bizarre? Would I, blinded by lights, leap right over the edge of the catwalk into Anna Wintour’s lap on the front row? I had no idea,” the 31-year-old remembered. “The dance was a big success, I didn’t fall off the runway and @voguemagazine magazine later named it the ‘Coco Moment’. I think people were just so surprised to see me do such an obscure dance down such a very, very long runway.”

Coco referenced that moment at Gaultier’s final show on Wednesday, when she performed a similar dance down the catwalk.

© Cover Media

Jean Paul Gaultier takes final bow at star-studded couture show

Jean Paul Gaultier has concluded his 50-year fashion career with a star-studded runway spectacle.The legendary French designer announced his retirement plans in a statement posted to social media last weekend, and on Wednesday night, staged his final c…

Jean Paul Gaultier has concluded his 50-year fashion career with a star-studded runway spectacle.

The legendary French designer announced his retirement plans in a statement posted to social media last weekend, and on Wednesday night, staged his final catwalk show at the Theatre du Chatelet as part of Paris Couture Week.

The extravaganza drew in a number of celebrities, including Nicolas Ghesquiere, Christian Lacroix, Carla Bruni, and Christian Louboutin, but at the opening, Gaultier called for fans to embrace sustainability and recycle their clothes.

“In my first show and this, my last, there are creations made with the jeans I’ve worn,” he told the crowd. “It’s the most beautiful of materials. Like a lot of humans, it becomes even more beautiful as it gets older.”

As promised, Gaultier offered guests a party, with the presentation opening with Karlie Kloss standing in the centre of the stage and opening a black coffin, to reveal model Issa Lish standing in a frilled white minidress inside.

Lish then took to the catwalk and was followed by a parade of models in quirky ensembles, such as a white dress covered in gloves, a top made from a tuxedo jacket, and a black tulle dress with images of Japanese art attached to the front.

Many of the 67-year-old’s key motifs were also included, with one model sporting a jumpsuit that resembled the conical bra he created for Madonna in the 1990s, burlesque star Dita Von Teese posing in an outfit made from a satin corset and belts, Gigi Hadid in a sailor uniform-inspired look, Karen Elson in a corseted number, and Irina Shayk in a Goth-inspired black tulle ballgown.

The event also featured special appearances from Joan Smalls, Paris Jackson, who made her runway debut, Erin O’Connor, as well as Coco Rocha, who did an Irish dance on the catwalk, as she also did back in 2007.

To conclude, Boy George performed a song during the finale, with the models applauding Gaultier as he proceeded to take his bow.

© Cover Media

Chanel dishes up conservative chic for spring 20 couture line

Chanel has served up conservative chic for its spring/summer 2020 couture collection.Creative director Virginie Viard unveiled her latest line at the Grand Palais as part of Paris Couture Week on Tuesday, with the presentation drawing in the likes of P…

Chanel has served up conservative chic for its spring/summer 2020 couture collection.

Creative director Virginie Viard unveiled her latest line at the Grand Palais as part of Paris Couture Week on Tuesday, with the presentation drawing in the likes of Pharrell Williams, Eva Green, G-Dragon, and Caroline, Princess of Hanover to the front row.

The venue was transformed to resemble a cloister garden, complete with fountain and white sheets hanging on a clothesline, with the theme inspired by brand founder Coco Chanel’s childhood spent at a convent in the Aubazine region of Nouvelle-Aquitaine.

“What I immediately liked was that the cloister garden was uncultivated,” Viard stated in her show notes. “It was really sunny. The place made me think of the summer, a breeze fragranced with flowers. I wanted floral embroideries like an herbarium, delicate flowers. What interested me in this decor was the paradox between the sophistication of haute couture and the simplicity of this place.”

The show opened with Vittoria Ceretti in a black and white dress matched with white tights, socks, and black flats. A number of monochromatic ensembles followed, such as a tweed suit with lace collar and long dress coats.

Gigi Hadid evoked a mother superior vibe in a belted black dress with white Peter Pan collar, and Kaia Gerber modelled a white lace dress with black tulle detailing attached to the neckline.

Towards the end of the spectacle, Viard introduced a range of dresses with floral embroidery and appliques, with Adut Akech sporting a white top with long black tiered skirt, and Rebecca Longendyke serving as the “bride” in a wedding dress with a knee-length hem made of white crepe georgette with triple Peter Pan collar, and a veil embroidered with branches of wisteria.

© Cover Media