Louis Vuitton’s Virgil Abloh plays with menswear codes for fall 20

Virgil Abloh has experimented with the codes of menswear for his latest Louis Vuitton line.The French luxury label’s head menswear designer, who took some time off to focus on his health in late 2019, returned to the spotlight on Thursday to unveil his…

Virgil Abloh has experimented with the codes of menswear for his latest Louis Vuitton line.

The French luxury label’s head menswear designer, who took some time off to focus on his health in late 2019, returned to the spotlight on Thursday to unveil his fall/winter 2020 collection at the Jardin des Tuileries as part of Paris Fashion Week: Men’s.

The venue had a surrealist cloudscape installed for the backdrop, while the rest of the set was decorated with oversized sewing tools, such as fabric scissors and cotton thread.

Describing the range as an “ode to the freedom of thought,” Abloh opted away from the streetwear influences of his previous collections and instead focused on the suit, offering up sharply tailored versions as well as ensembles with deconstructed elements.

“By studying the evolving anthropology of the suit, Louis Vuitton’s artistic director twists and turns traditional codes through a variety of techniques: shirts and ties are folded and wrapped around the body then pressed into a single shirt, Broderie Anglaise is magnified and rendered in suiting material,” a Louis Vuitton representative explained. “Within Abloh’s ongoing exploration of the constraints of menswear, this collection sees tailoring and suiting depart from a corporate comfort zone to be re-appropriated and embraced.”

The show opened with a model wearing a beige suit, white shirt, black Chelsea boots and carrying a tan leather tote, with a parade of similar outfits following. Abloh also played with accessories, including belts, tie clips, suspenders and gloves, with highlights including a grey suit paired with a hot pink bucket hat and a shirt manufactured with interwoven pieces of fabric. To conclude, the fashion star ramped up the surrealist elements of the procession, introducing a line of suits made from blue and white material that resembled clouds. The outfits were accessorised with metallic face masks and reflective sunglasses.

Paris Fashion Week: Men’s continues on Friday with shows from Lemaire and Zadig & Voltaire.

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Vetements hit with criticism over divisive ‘Don’t Shoot’ T-shirt

Vetements has been criticised for including a T-shirt with the words “Don’t Shoot” in its latest line.The Zurich-based clothing brand, founded by Georgian designer Demna Gvasalia, is no stranger to controversy, having previously hit headlines for selli…

Vetements has been criticised for including a T-shirt with the words “Don’t Shoot” in its latest line.

The Zurich-based clothing brand, founded by Georgian designer Demna Gvasalia, is no stranger to controversy, having previously hit headlines for selling a T-shirt with the logo of courier company DHL on it in 2016 and the following year, releasing jewellery that doubles as drug paraphernalia.

However, Vetements is now facing scrutiny for including a white T-shirt with “Don’t Shoot” written in red text in Arabic, French, and English at its spring/summer 2020 show held as part of Paris Fashion Week: Men’s last week.

Noting that the top is similar to those worn by journalists in Lebanon during the Israeli invasion in 1982, one Twitter user named Sarina commented, “Didn’t know I couldn’t hate Vetements even more. This T-shirt was worn by War reporters in Beirut during the 1982 conflict between Lebanon and Israel. This war is the primary reason why I had to leave Lebanon to the U.S. then Canada. And Vetements thinks it’s a fashion piece?????????”

While Lebanese influencer Samar Seraqui de Buttafoco shared a lengthy post on Instagram in which she insisted Vetements’ T-shirt was “more serious” than cultural appropriation.

“This is business activism for DUMMIES. Hope you will act like a responsible consumer. Hope some fashion editors will dedicate time to think and report. Hope to more respectability in the fashion industry,” she wrote.

In addition, others pointed out that Khalid Al-Qasimi, founder of London-based brand Qasimi, had made a version of the original T-shirt for his fall 2017 collection with the intention of making a political statement.

Emphasising the he doesn’t have copyright to the logo, Al-Qasimi told Vogue Arabia: “I used that print to highlight the plight of something going on in the Middle East. For Vetements to use it in such a flippant and provocative manner; I don’t think they realise what these words mean to us Arabs.”

Representatives for Vetements and Gvasalia are yet to comment on the criticism.

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Karl Lagerfeld memorial event to be held in Paris

The late Karl Lagerfeld is to be honoured at a memorial event in Paris.Following health complications of pancreatic cancer, the German couturier died in February at the age of 85, with the news sending shockwaves throughout the fashion industry. Now, …

The late Karl Lagerfeld is to be honoured at a memorial event in Paris.

Following health complications of pancreatic cancer, the German couturier died in February at the age of 85, with the news sending shockwaves throughout the fashion industry.

Now, executives at the three brands Lagerfeld helmed – Chanel, Fendi, and his own namesake label – have come together to plan a tribute entitled Karl For Ever, which will take place on 20 June at the Grand Palais amidst the Paris Fashion Week: Men’s presentations.

“It will be a very powerful moment, a collective celebration of his persona,” Bruno Pavlovsky, Chanel’s president of global fashion, told WWD. “The memorial will be about Karl only: who he was, what he loved, what gave him his exceptional energy. I am glad we could join forces with Fendi and Karl Lagerfeld to create together an exceptional event that measures up to him, a tribute that truly celebrates the things he loved and that inspired him.”

The production of the event will be overseen by opera director Robert Carsen. He is currently putting together videos and footage of Lagerfeld, as well as interviews with his friends and fellow fashion designers.

“I wanted something full of life and unexpected. (Lagerfeld) once famously said, ‘A funeral? I’d rather die.’ He would have wanted it to be a joyful moment,” he commented to the fashion publication. “It’s a huge honour, but also quite a challenge: we know of the force behind Chanel, Fendi, the Karl Lagerfeld brand, Chloe and others, but it’s also about the man himself – the artist, even if he didn’t like to be called as such.”

An estimated 2,500 guests are expected to be in attendance. In keeping with Lagerfeld’s wishes, no formal funeral was held when he passed away.

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Music, movie and fashion stars sit FROW at Paris Fashion Week: Men’s

The front rows at Paris Fashion Week: Men’s were awash with the A-list over the weekend (18-20Jan19).Everyone from new fashion darling Jonah Hill to catwalk legend Naomi Campbell turned out for the menswear shows in the City of Light, with no one letti…

The front rows at Paris Fashion Week: Men’s were awash with the A-list over the weekend (18-20Jan19).

Everyone from new fashion darling Jonah Hill to catwalk legend Naomi Campbell turned out for the menswear shows in the City of Light, with no one letting the riots held by the gilets jaunes (yellow vests) stand in their way.

At the Adidas MakerLab Presents: Here to Create show on Friday (18Jan18), designers Nicholas Daley, Paolina Russo, and Priya Ahluwalia were cheered on by Jonah, David Beckham, and Karlie Kloss.

“I’m definitely interested in young designers,” Jonah told WWD. “I need to know somebody personally and understand them as a person to enjoy their work. That’s when the real connection is made.”

The Wolf of Wall Street actor, dressed in plaid Marni suit over a Dr. Octagon T-shirt and Adidas sneakers, also spoke about his rise to become one of the poster boys for the “scumbro” look – a term describing a scruffy, no-fuss attitude to streetwear and personal grooming.

“I think terms like that are so funny. I would never identify as any sort of term,” he smiled. “Honestly I just don’t care. I wear s**t that I like and that’s it.”

To conclude the show, Adidas collaborator Pharrell Williams appeared at the end to congratulate the designers.

Elsewhere on Friday, Naomi, Kate Moss, and Robert Pattinson stepped out at the Dior presentation.

And on Saturday, Naomi was once again sitting front row, this time for Japanese designer Chitose Abe’s Sacai show.

She was joined by Pusha T, who confessed to being a big fan of Japanese culture: “I love Japan a lot. I’ve been going there for a very long time, since (label) BAPE’s fifth anniversary at least. (BAPE founder) Nigo introduced me to Japan, so it’s always been linked to him. Each trip is a different experience.”

While on Sunday, the likes of Courtney Love, Miles Kane, Virgil Abloh and Natalia Vodianova turned out for Hedi Slimane’s inaugural Celine menswear show.

“It’s an historic moment,” musician Kane told WWD.

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Rick Owens teams with eco brand Veja on sneaker design

Rick Owens has partnered with eco-friendly footwear brand Veja on a sneaker design.The American designer launched his eponymous brand in 1994, and has since gone on to build up a reputation for his use of unconventional materials and controversial runw…

Rick Owens has partnered with eco-friendly footwear brand Veja on a sneaker design.

The American designer launched his eponymous brand in 1994, and has since gone on to build up a reputation for his use of unconventional materials and controversial runway shows.

However, at Owens’ fall/winter 2019 presentation held as part of Paris Fashion Week: Men’s on Thursday (17Jan19), eyes weren’t just on the garments, but the sneakers created in collaboration for the French company.

“It was the most environmentally friendly sportswear company I could find,” Owens stated of the shoes in his show notes, according to Footwear News. “I have absolutely no authority to promote sustainability, but I do endorse the idea of thoughtful living and planning for the future with kindness in mind. We all gotta start somewhere.”

Owens’ Veja sneakers are a light grey colour with black soles and grey laces. The minimalist design was worn on the runway by a model dressed in black shorts, white shirt and a large fluffy grey jacket.

Founded by Sebastien Kopp and Francois-Ghislain Morillion in 2003, Veja is known for its vegan-friendly products, with the trainers and accessories made of organic cotton, wild runner and recycled plastic bottles.

Celebrities including Emma Watson, Emily Ratajkowski, and Eddie Redmayne have all been spotted wearing the label’s footwear of late, and, the company received a major boost in October 2018 when Meghan, Duchess of Sussex sported a pair during a sailing event with her husband Prince Harry for the Invictus Games in Sydney, Australia.

A photo of Meghan in the shoes garnered thousands of likes on Veja’s Instagram page.

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Adwoa Aboah was touched by Ghanaian support for her British Vogue cover

Adwoa Aboah never imagined her first British Vogue cover would make such an impact in Ghana.The model was the publication’s first cover girl under the leadership of editor-in-chief Edward Enninful, in an issue the British-Ghanaian stylist hailed as a “…

Adwoa Aboah never imagined her first British Vogue cover would make such an impact in Ghana.

The model was the publication’s first cover girl under the leadership of editor-in-chief Edward Enninful, in an issue the British-Ghanaian stylist hailed as a “new Vogue.”

Adwoa’s glamorous photoshoot was praised by U.K. fashion fans, but she didn’t fully understand the impact it had made in Ghana until she visited the country to shoot a campaign for Burberry.

“I wanted to shoot my Burberry campaign in Ghana to show people that there are so many different facets to Africa; there is a booming economy, an exciting arts scene, there are women who love fashion,” she explained to British Vogue. “But I didn’t understand the impact my Vogue cover had there until I visited. I always felt a connection to the country but I didn’t realise they had claimed me as their own.”

The 26-year-old shot the campaign with her Ghanaian relatives, including her aunty and grandmother, who had also designed their own outfits made from Burberry’s iconic check.

“Going to shoot in Ghana was my way of showing respect to that part of me. And the outpouring of support was beautiful,” Adwoa added.

Another of her fashion highlights of 2018 was the unveiling of the debut collection by new Louis Vuitton men’s artistic director Virgil Abloh, which took place during Paris Fashion Week: Men’s in June (18).

“I live streamed Virgil’s first show on my phone and it gave me shivers,” the star recalled. “Part of it comes down to my having a black father who has always worn amazing brands, but knowing that the way those clothes are usually shown is so whitewashed. To see the most handsome black men walking that runway in these beautiful outfits was incredible.”

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Celine to join Paris Fashion Week: Men’s schedule

Celine is set to join the Paris Fashion Week: Men’s schedule.Former Saint Laurent designer Hedi Slimane was named as the Paris-based house’s artistic director earlier in the year (18), succeeding Phoebe Philo, and unveiled his spring 19 collection for …

Celine is set to join the Paris Fashion Week: Men’s schedule.

Former Saint Laurent designer Hedi Slimane was named as the Paris-based house’s artistic director earlier in the year (18), succeeding Phoebe Philo, and unveiled his spring 19 collection for the brand in September.

Now, Slimane appears set to debut a new menswear collection in January, with a representative confirming to WWD that the presentation will take place during the event.

According to editors at the publication, a date for the show is yet to be confirmed, with brand executives currently in talks with officials at the Federation de la Haute Couture et de la Mode. As Slimane selected to do a co-ed range in his debut collection, it is also possible that he will choose to include some womenswear pieces in his upcoming show.

Following the fashion star’s appointment to Celine, Bernard Arnault, chairman and chief executive officer of the brand’s parent company Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH), indicated that menswear would be a large focus for the label going forward.

“I am particularly happy that Hedi is back within the LVMH Group and taking the reins of our Celine Maison,” he said. “His arrival at Celine reinforces the great ambitions that LVMH has for this Maison. Hedi will oversee and develop all creativity for both women’s and men’s fashion, but also for leather goods, accessories and fragrances. He will leverage his global vision and unique aesthetic virtuosity in further building an iconic French Maison.”

Should Slimane, who is known for his rocker-inspired men’s garments and slim fit trousers, show in January, he will join the likes of Dior, Berluti and Louis Vuitton. In addition, Givenchy’s Clare Waight Keller recently announced that she will be showing her fall 19 collection during the event, with the runway spectacle to be held on 16 January.

“Granting menswear a dedicated platform starting from January reflects the house’s support of Clare Waight Keller’s vision for the brand,” a spokesperson commented.

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Givenchy returning to Paris Fashion Week: Men’s

Givenchy is returning to Paris Fashion Week: Men’s for fall 2019.The label has opted for coed shows ever since Clare Waight Keller was appointed artistic director in 2017, however, WWD has reported that it will be switching back to the men’s fashion ca…

Givenchy is returning to Paris Fashion Week: Men’s for fall 2019.

The label has opted for coed shows ever since Clare Waight Keller was appointed artistic director in 2017, however, WWD has reported that it will be switching back to the men’s fashion calendar next season.

Givenchy confirmed in a statement that the presentation is scheduled for 16 January (19).

“Granting menswear a dedicated platform starting from January reflects the house’s support of Clare Waight Keller’s vision for the brand,” a spokesperson added.

The British designer presented a gender-fluid offering for her spring 2019 collection inspired by Swiss writer Annemarie Schwarzenbach, and though she has now decided to offer separate displays of menswear and womenswear, the brand is adamant that men and women will still feature side by side in her ready-to-wear and haute couture shows.

Waight Keller’s campaigns for the French fashion house have portrayed both sexes in mirror-image pairs, and the decision to return to the men’s fashion calendar comes at a time where many brands are deciding to present women’s and men’s wear simultaneously.

Celine, in its first presentation under new artistic, creative and image director Hedi Slimane, and Maison Margiela both staged their first coed shows for spring 2019. Under Slimane, Celine has also introduced a new menswear category to the brand for the first time.

While Stella McCartney, Balenciaga, Haider Ackermann and Sonia Rykiel all featured models of both sexes on their catwalks during their Fashion Week shows.

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Virgil Abloh unveils prism-themed debut menswear for Louis Vuitton

Virgil Abloh has unveiled a prism-themed line as his debut collection for Louis Vuitton.The Ghanaian-American designer has risen to fame since launching streetwear brand Off-White in 2013 and was announced as Kim Jones’ successor as the head of the Fre…

Virgil Abloh has unveiled a prism-themed line as his debut collection for Louis Vuitton.

The Ghanaian-American designer has risen to fame since launching streetwear brand Off-White in 2013 and was announced as Kim Jones’ successor as the head of the French luxury brand’s menswear division in March (18).

After months of anticipation, Abloh presented his spring/summer 2019 Louis Vuitton men’s line at the Palais Royal as part of Paris Fashion Week: Men’s on Thursday (21Jun18) afternoon, with the collection proving to be quite the spectacle.

Celebrities such as Rihanna, Kylie Jenner, Travis Scott, J Balvin, Naomi Campbell, Bella Hadid, Kim Kardashian and Abloh’s former collaborator, Kanye West, were all perched on the front row, with a fluorescent T-shirt with graphic print placed on each guest’s seat, a nod to one of the first designs he tried out when he started work at the house.

The show kicked off with a parade of male models walking the rainbow-hued runway in head-to-toe white outfits, including suits with baggy trousers and cargo pants with pockets which were matched with utilitarian sweatshirts.

Hip-hop star Kid Cudi rocked the runway in a pale mint trouser and hoodie combination that was worn with a tailored jacket, while Abloh, 38, slowly introduced more colours into his show, with models sporting a brown coat with sharp lapels, teal shirts which had pieces of yellow high-vis fabric sewn onto them, a denim shirt worn with matching jeans as well as jackets and blazers with painterly prints.

Most models carried versions of white leather carryalls and oversized totes, while the show concluded with a model wearing a silver space suit-like top and carrying an iridescent bag made from clear PVC.

After receiving a standing ovation, Abloh took a bow and walked straight over to tearfully embrace Kanye.

Speaking to Vogue prior to the show, Chicago-born Abloh highlighted how he wanted the presentation to mark a new phase in his career.

“Laying a foundation, that’s what this season’s about. I want to speak to the generation presiding,” he shared. “But I also want a young generation to come in and know, hey, there’s someone here who’s listening, and speaking back to them.”

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Kris Van Assche drops debut Berluti campaign

Kris Van Assche has unveiled his first Berluti campaign.Van Assche was announced as the artistic director of the menswear label in April, two weeks after he left Dior Homme. He’d been at the French luxury brand for 11 years before he took over Haider A…

Kris Van Assche has unveiled his first Berluti campaign.

Van Assche was announced as the artistic director of the menswear label in April, two weeks after he left Dior Homme. He’d been at the French luxury brand for 11 years before he took over Haider Ackermann’s role at Berluti.

The Belgian designer’s debut adverts for his new company dropped on Monday (18Jun18), just ahead of the first day of Paris Fashion Week: Men’s. Although he’s sitting this round of men’s shows out, Van Assche has ensured the stylish crowd will be talking about Berluti with his stripped-down marketing imagery.

“For this first campaign, I wanted to create an image rooted in the maison’s origins and emboss it with my vision,” he said in a statement. “See you in January.”

Van Assche will show his first Berluti line at the start of 2019, while his Dior Homme successor Kim Jones will unveil his debut collection in Paris on Saturday.

The black and white images, shot by Jamie Hawkesworth and styled by Mauricio Nardi, feature three nude male models posing with only a pair of Berluti’s classic Alessandro Oxford shoes, slung around their necks. The models each show off a different variation of the shoe, which is made from a single piece of patinated Venezia leather or alligator hide.

“This campaign was thought of and art-directed by Kris. I relate to it because it speaks of who we are while holding a promise of more to come,” added Antoine Arnault, chief executive officer of Berluti.

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