Louis Vuitton’s Virgil Abloh plays with menswear codes for fall 20

Virgil Abloh has experimented with the codes of menswear for his latest Louis Vuitton line.The French luxury label’s head menswear designer, who took some time off to focus on his health in late 2019, returned to the spotlight on Thursday to unveil his…

Virgil Abloh has experimented with the codes of menswear for his latest Louis Vuitton line.

The French luxury label’s head menswear designer, who took some time off to focus on his health in late 2019, returned to the spotlight on Thursday to unveil his fall/winter 2020 collection at the Jardin des Tuileries as part of Paris Fashion Week: Men’s.

The venue had a surrealist cloudscape installed for the backdrop, while the rest of the set was decorated with oversized sewing tools, such as fabric scissors and cotton thread.

Describing the range as an “ode to the freedom of thought,” Abloh opted away from the streetwear influences of his previous collections and instead focused on the suit, offering up sharply tailored versions as well as ensembles with deconstructed elements.

“By studying the evolving anthropology of the suit, Louis Vuitton’s artistic director twists and turns traditional codes through a variety of techniques: shirts and ties are folded and wrapped around the body then pressed into a single shirt, Broderie Anglaise is magnified and rendered in suiting material,” a Louis Vuitton representative explained. “Within Abloh’s ongoing exploration of the constraints of menswear, this collection sees tailoring and suiting depart from a corporate comfort zone to be re-appropriated and embraced.”

The show opened with a model wearing a beige suit, white shirt, black Chelsea boots and carrying a tan leather tote, with a parade of similar outfits following. Abloh also played with accessories, including belts, tie clips, suspenders and gloves, with highlights including a grey suit paired with a hot pink bucket hat and a shirt manufactured with interwoven pieces of fabric. To conclude, the fashion star ramped up the surrealist elements of the procession, introducing a line of suits made from blue and white material that resembled clouds. The outfits were accessorised with metallic face masks and reflective sunglasses.

Paris Fashion Week: Men’s continues on Friday with shows from Lemaire and Zadig & Voltaire.

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Karlie Kloss nearly wore dress backwards during Alexander McQueen show

Karlie Kloss almost wore a dress backwards during her first-ever Alexander McQueen runway show.In a new video for her YouTube channel, the model reflected on her debut at Paris Fashion Week when she was 15 in 2007 and remembered how she nearly suffered…

Karlie Kloss almost wore a dress backwards during her first-ever Alexander McQueen runway show.

In a new video for her YouTube channel, the model reflected on her debut at Paris Fashion Week when she was 15 in 2007 and remembered how she nearly suffered a major wardrobe malfunction during McQueen’s spring/summer 2008 presentation when she put her dress with a scooped back on the wrong way.

“I had a quick change between two looks, which is always an honour as a model to wear multiple outfits in a show. I wore the first outfit, walked, did my thing, felt like a million bucks. I take my first look off, I put my second one on, and literally before I could pull my head through the outfit, the casting director is like, ‘Karlie, Karlie, Karlie, you’re on in two looks,'” she recalled. “I had someone on my foot tying my shoe, I had someone else trying to fix my hair because this big hairdo that I have is fully lopsided. And I look down, and the dress is entirely backwards. The scooped back is in the front and I’m totally naked.”

Karlie began panicking about the situation, especially as she knew her mother was watching in the audience. However, with a little quick thinking, the star was able to rectify the dress drama.

“Ten seconds away from being pushed out onto the runway, I said, ‘Everybody stop!’ and I pulled the belt off, did some weird little thing, wiggle into the dress, I flip it around, and I just get pushed out onto the runway,” the 27-year-old smiled.

Karlie went on to note that anything can happen backstage at fashion shows, and she’s previously also had to deal with tripping over and broken stilettos.

But she remains thrilled to have participated in a McQueen show.

“Alexander McQueen’s shows were unlike anything else. He himself was such an artist. I mean, truly in the purest form. You really felt like a muse,” she praised of the British designer, who died in 2010 at the age of 40.

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Virgil Abloh wants to represent a generation

Virgil Abloh aspires to represent a generation with his fashion designs.The founder of Off-White and artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear department was first inspired to make clothing more representative after being refused entry to several s…

Virgil Abloh aspires to represent a generation with his fashion designs.

The founder of Off-White and artistic director of Louis Vuitton’s menswear department was first inspired to make clothing more representative after being refused entry to several shows back in 2009 during a visit to Paris Fashion Week with Kanye West.

Back then, Abloh discovered that the industry “wasn’t particularly welcoming”, but he has been driven ever since to make sure young designers and fashion fans aren’t excluded.

“I don’t know how many shows I’ve done since 2016 but it’s been enjoyable to define the space that I would perceivably be put in,” he told Dazed magazine. “My motivation this whole time has been to represent for a generation – I’m still thinking about the kid that couldn’t get into fashion shows.”

Abloh believes streetwear has helped to promote diversity and inclusivity in the business, and has worked together with the likes of Shayne Oliver from Hood by Air to create a “new atmosphere”.

“I’ve never been one that felt like the doors were closing – I’m an optimist so I don’t even recognise that, that’s how I got to where I’m at. I think that what helped it along was streetwear was also a global concept,” the 39-year-old stated.

Despite acknowledging the success of his streetwear, Abloh confessed he was initially disappointed that his clothing was described as that by the press.

“From that frustration, I decided if ‘streetwear’ was gonna be the sign of the times I was gonna define it rather than be defined by it. I needed to do a show to define what ‘streetwear’ could be, and do it with urgency, you know,” he added.

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Virgil Abloh back to work at Louis Vuitton

Virgil Abloh is back working at Louis Vuitton after taking some time off to focus on his health.The fashion designer, who serves as creative director of menswear at the French luxury brand and is also the founder of streetwear label Off-White, announce…

Virgil Abloh is back working at Louis Vuitton after taking some time off to focus on his health.

The fashion designer, who serves as creative director of menswear at the French luxury brand and is also the founder of streetwear label Off-White, announced in early September that he would be embarking on a temporary hiatus from his roles as he was having a difficult time recovering from a recent overseas trip.

However, on Monday, Abloh took to Instagram to post a mirror selfie of himself posing in an elevator at the Louis Vuitton headquarters in Paris. He is pictured wearing a red and yellow jacket as well as a baseball cap but did not write anything in the caption.

While he was spending time at home, the 39-year-old missed Off-White’s Paris Fashion Week show and a scheduled public appearance at Vogue’s Forces of Fashion summit. It remains unclear if he will be at the opening of his Figures of Speech exhibition at the High Museum of Art in Atlanta, Georgia on Friday.

Back in September, Abloh indicated to reporters at Vogue.com that he was suffering from exhaustion following months of hectic fashion shows and travel.

“I was just tired, so I went to the doctor. Ultimately, everything is fine, but the doctor told me, ‘This pace that you’ve sort of pushed your body – to fly all these miles, do all these different projects – is not good for your health,'” the designer explained. “Essentially I’m working from home for the next three months, and in large part all my marketing events I’m cancelling.”

The break also meant Abloh could spend time with his two young children, whom he shares with his wife Shannon Sundberg.

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Olivier Rousteing: ‘Kylie Jenner didn’t need to apologise for missing Balmain show’

Olivier Rousteing has insisted Kylie Jenner didn’t need to apologise for missing his Balmain show during Paris Fashion Week.The Kylie Cosmetics mogul was set to serve as artistic director for make-up at Balmain’s spring/summer 2020 runway presentation …

Olivier Rousteing has insisted Kylie Jenner didn’t need to apologise for missing his Balmain show during Paris Fashion Week.

The Kylie Cosmetics mogul was set to serve as artistic director for make-up at Balmain’s spring/summer 2020 runway presentation in the French capital in September in order to celebrate the launch of their joint Kylie X Balmain cosmetics capsule collection, which debuted on the catwalk.

However, days before the event, the 22-year-old announced on social media that she was too sick to travel to France and said she was “heartbroken” to be missing the event.

But in an interview with W magazine, Rousteing, the creative director of the French luxury fashion house, shared that Kylie didn’t need to apologise for being unwell.

“We were texting on and on and on and on. Kris (Jenner) was with me and we were talking to her and she was saying she didn’t feel good. But you know, there’s no need for any apology. When you feel sick, you feel sick,” he commented. “And I was wishing for her to feel better and she did, she went to the hospital. Fashion cannot control everything, you know what I mean? But, of course, she was really sad.”

At the time, it was reported Kylie was rushed to hospital with “severe, flu-like” symptoms such as nausea and dizziness.

The Kylie X Balmain collection features lip gloss, a lip kit consisting of a blush pink liquid lipstick and soft chocolate nude lip liner, as well as a nine-pan eyeshadow palette.

Accordingly, Rousteing noted that he enjoyed shooting the campaign with the reality TV star.

“She’s really good at colour. Obviously, I cannot wear those colours on me, but we spent like days with our arms putting some colours, some eyeshadows. It was just amazing to be in her office and working together on that,” the designer added.

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Chanel prankster: ‘Gigi Hadid was quite aggressive’

Prankster Marie S’Infiltre has claimed Gigi Hadid was “quite aggressive” when she removed her from the catwalk after she crashed the Chanel show earlier this week.The French YouTuber, real name Marie Benoliel, pulled the stunt during creative director …

Prankster Marie S’Infiltre has claimed Gigi Hadid was “quite aggressive” when she removed her from the catwalk after she crashed the Chanel show earlier this week.

The French YouTuber, real name Marie Benoliel, pulled the stunt during creative director Virginie Viard’s show for the French luxury brand at the Grand Palais as part of Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday.

Marie leapt onto the runway wearing a black and white two-piece, which she claims is vintage Chanel, in front of the star-studded audience, which featured the likes of Cardi B, Anna Wintour, and Anna Dello Russo.

Gigi blocked the prankster from continuing to walk the runway and put her hand on her shoulder as she escorted her off the catwalk.

Now, Marie is claiming that the 24-year-old supermodel was “quite aggressive” and didn’t understand that she was simply paying tribute to the late Karl Lagerfeld.

In an email to Elle.com, she complained that she thought Gigi might pull her hair and yell “as if we were school girls”, but refused to divulge what was said during their confrontation.

“She clearly did not understand my comic approach. Gigi is obviously sublime and a fashion icon and I understand her reaction somewhat and continue to love her in spite of that,” Marie shared.

The prankster said her career is inspired by Borat star Sacha Baron Cohen, and she enjoys immersing herself in public events “to show how funny some situations and sometimes extreme behaviours are.”

“I am not making fun of people, I am pointing how silly some people can be when they lack distance and thinking,” Marie insisted.

After the show, a spokesperson for Chanel told AFP: “We are not going to make a drama out of it… We would have preferred if it hadn’t happened.”

They also said “this is not the first time that she has done this”, referring to Marie crashing Etam’s Paris Fashion Week presentation last week.

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Alexander McQueen honours artisan traditions with spring 2020 collection

Alexander McQueen has paid tribute to artisan traditions with its spring/summer 2020 collection.Creative director Sarah Burton unveiled her latest line at the Musee de l’Orangerie as part of Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday night, with the spectacle drawi…

Alexander McQueen has paid tribute to artisan traditions with its spring/summer 2020 collection.

Creative director Sarah Burton unveiled her latest line at the Musee de l’Orangerie as part of Paris Fashion Week on Tuesday night, with the spectacle drawing in celebrities such as Naomi Campbell and Anna Dello Russo.

In her show notes, the British designer explained that she had been inspired by a recent trip to Northern Ireland where she had learned about the techniques used in manufacturing traditional linens and embroideries.

“Each look tells its own story,” she shared. “The connection between the clothes is the time it took to make them. I was interested in clarity and paring things down, in the essence of garment – stripping back to the toile. I love the idea of people having the time to make things together, the time to meet and talk together, the time to reconnect with the world.”

With members of the London Contemporary Orchestra playing a piece composed by Isobel Waller-Bridge, the show opened with model Vilma Sjoberg walking the runway in a puff-sleeve dress with contrast feather-stitch detailing, which was made from beetled moonlit ivory linen and accessorised with a black leather belt and boots. Beetling refers to the process of pounding linen or cotton fabric to give a flat, lustrous effect.

A series of black and white suits and dresses from the same material followed, with the garments interspersed with touches of white lace and grey suits featuring cutouts at the waist.

Partway through the show, Burton also incorporated abstract prints influenced by the work of fashion students who took life drawing classes at the label’s London flagship store, with all of the artists credited in the show notes, while the presentation built to a dramatic conclusion with the unveiling of a parade of dresses with sculptural sleeves and layered tulle, as well as models Kaia Gerber and Cosima Fritz sporting pink and ice-blue numbers which resembled blooming dahlia blossoms.

To conclude, Adut Akech wowed in a deconstructed tailored jacket in black garment beetled linen.

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Stella McCartney serves up stripes and suits for spring 2020

Stella McCartney has played with stripes and relaxed suiting for her spring/summer 2020 collection.The British designer unveiled her latest line at the Opera Garnier as part of Paris Fashion Week on Monday, with celebrities including Paul McCartney, An…

Stella McCartney has played with stripes and relaxed suiting for her spring/summer 2020 collection.

The British designer unveiled her latest line at the Opera Garnier as part of Paris Fashion Week on Monday, with celebrities including Paul McCartney, Anna Wintour, Natalia Vodianova, Maisie Williams, Ellie Goulding, and Vivienne Westwood in attendance.

Regarding her inspiration for the range, Stella explained that she wanted to honour “fierce women” who aren’t afraid to make the world their own.

“The free-spirits, the wild ones, the artists and the risk-takers,” the 48-year-old shared in her show notes. “True individuals with strength of character who shine their light bravely. As natural beauty meets modernity, fluid meets graphic and eccentricity meets simplicity, structure is built up and broken down, expressing strength of heart and the duality of the modern woman.”

The spectacle opened with model Krini Hernandez walking the runway in black and white striped trousers, a beige shirt, and a boxy beige blazer, with the look accessorised with gladiator sandals and bio-acetate sunglasses hanging off of oversized artful chains.

A line-up of separates in a palette of white, brown, and Oxford blue followed, while pops of colour were apparent in an orange dress sported by Anok Yai and a teal coat worn by Amber Valletta.

In keeping with Stella’s eco-friendly ethos, items were made from organic cotton, sustainable viscose, hemp, and sustainable raffia, while many of the suits were manufactured from Japanese recycled polyester fabric.

Alongside pieces with petal edging and denim-on-denim ensembles, the fashion star also introduced a series of floral dresses, with the prints inspired by photographs she had taken during bike rides through the English countryside.

Highlights included a floral print suit and shirt combo worn by male model Khadim Sock and a two-piece outfit made from the same fabric which was modelled by Kaia Gerber.

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Gigi Hadid confronts prankster during Chanel spring 2020 show

Gigi Hadid confronted a prankster who stormed onto the runway during Chanel’s spring/summer 2020 show on Tuesday morning.Creative director Virginie Viard unveiled her latest line for the French luxury brand at the Grand Palais as part of Paris Fashion …

Gigi Hadid confronted a prankster who stormed onto the runway during Chanel’s spring/summer 2020 show on Tuesday morning.

Creative director Virginie Viard unveiled her latest line for the French luxury brand at the Grand Palais as part of Paris Fashion Week, with the show attracting the likes of Cardi B, Anna Wintour, and Anna Dello Russo.

However, as the models paraded on the set, designed to resemble a Paris rooftop, a woman dressed in a tweed suit and black hat scrambled through the seats and got up onto the raised catwalk and joined the finale.

After walking in line with the models for a short time, the gatecrasher decided to take a different route around the rooftop and was stopped by a stern-faced Hadid, who ushered her to the edge of the set and towards the exit, where several security members were waiting.

The prankster is believed to be Marie Benoliel, known as Marie S’Infiltre, a YouTube personality with 195,0000 followers on Instagram. Representatives for Chanel and Hadid are yet to comment on the incident.

Yet, clips of Hadid’s reaction are already making the rounds on social media, with many fans praising the 24-year-old for remaining calm under pressure.

“Go Gigi!” on Instagram user wrote, while another added, “People need to seriously respect the jobs of others. The designers, organisers and models work waaaay (sic) too hard, just for attention seekers to try to ruin everything on a very special day for them. Gigi did the right thing!”

Besides the runway drama, the rest of Viard’s presentation went smoothly, with Karl Lagerfeld’s successor offering a range of separates in Chanel’s signature tweed fabric, as well as nautical stripes, touches of blue denim, and evening gowns with tiered ruffled skirts.

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Givenchy pays homage to ’90s New York with spring 2020 line

Givenchy has served up a tribute to 1990s New York with its spring/summer 2020 collection.Creative director Clare Waight Keller unveiled her latest line at the Garde Republicaine as part of Paris Fashion Week on Sunday night, with the spectacle drawing…

Givenchy has served up a tribute to 1990s New York with its spring/summer 2020 collection.

Creative director Clare Waight Keller unveiled her latest line at the Garde Republicaine as part of Paris Fashion Week on Sunday night, with the spectacle drawing in celebrities such as Maisie Williams, Maria Sharapova, Noomi Rapace, the Haim sisters, and Karen Elson.

Regarding her inspiration for the range, Waight Keller explained in her show notes that she was influenced by her time working at Calvin Klein in New York for the brand’s women’s ready-to-wear line in the early 1990s, as well as Allison Yarrow’s 2018 book 90s B**ch: Media, Culture, and the Failed Promise of Gender Equality.

“The Givenchy collection for spring/summer 2020 encounters the crossroads where fractal symmetries drawn from the botanical world entwine with a tough urban energy,” a Givenchy spokesperson explained. “From the blossoms of old-world Paris to the raw denim spirit of New York City, summertime memories invoke liberated femininity with a poetic lightness of hand.”

The presentation opened with a model sporting a beige leather top with a pocket and a silk skirt, with a number of minimalist outfits following, such as an oversized grey blazer with matching shorts, a burnt orange shirt with matching tailored trousers, and a lilac dress.

Other ’90s touches were evident in a crisp white jacket matched with denim shorts, two-piece leather ensembles comprised of bandeau tops and pencil skirts, and two-tone denim dresses.

Partway through the show, Waight Keller also dropped in a boho-chic element, with models parading the catwalk in floral print dresses with voluminous sleeves as well as evening gowns covered in floral appliques.

To conclude, the designer unveiled a line-up of black outfits, including a black leather dress and strapless gown with satin bodice and crystal-studded skirt.

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