Proenza Schouler finding virtual model fittings to be ‘quite weird’

Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are conducting virtual model fittings amid the coronavirus lockdown.The designers founded their womenswear and accessories brand in 2002, with their chic collections now stocked in hundreds of ret…

Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are conducting virtual model fittings amid the coronavirus lockdown.

The designers founded their womenswear and accessories brand in 2002, with their chic collections now stocked in hundreds of retailers worldwide.

Discussing how they are navigating the Covid-19 pandemic in an interview for Vogue.com, McCollough and Hernandez revealed that they are still working on items and are relying on video chats with their team to figure out how a garment looks on a model or mannequin.

“Doing a fitting on a screen you’re constantly having to ask, ‘Is that a seam, is that a dart, what is that?'” noted McCollough. “Right now, all our models have the added accessories of a mask and rubber gloves, so it’s been quite weird.”

And while plans for Fashion Week events and runway shows remain up in the air, the style stars are constantly contemplating what their clients will be wanting to wear once the health crisis begins to ease.

“We’ve been constantly asking ourselves: What are the clothes that people will want in November? What will be the vibe then, what will be the mood?” added Hernandez. “The customer is definitely still shopping, but there’s a thirst for something more casual, easy, utilitarian, practical, comfortable – all of those adjectives.”

McCollough and Hernandez are also still adding new designs to their White Label “sister” collection, and recently released a new line of luxe sandals as part of a collaboration with Birkenstock.

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Dries Van Noten leads call for major changes to fashion calendar

Dries Van Noten is proposing major changes to the fashion calendar amid the coronavirus crisis.The Covid-19 pandemic has hit the clothing industry hard, with factories and stores being forced to temporarily close across the world. However, Van Noten is…

Dries Van Noten is proposing major changes to the fashion calendar amid the coronavirus crisis.

The Covid-19 pandemic has hit the clothing industry hard, with factories and stores being forced to temporarily close across the world.

However, Van Noten is adamant that now might be the time to try and rethink the traditional seasonal fashion calendar.

“When you try to explain how fashion works to people not in fashion, it’s impossible. Nobody can understand it,” the 62-year-old told The New York Times, before noting that he anticipates disruptions to the upcoming drops anyway. “We know fall will deliver late… And we are going to put that on sale in November? Wouldn’t it better to wait until the new year? And then to have the courage to keep the rhythm we establish now?”

Accordingly, Van Noten is spearheading a campaign to better streamline the business, with a group of other designers and global retail bosses also showing their support for the idea.

Members of the group published an open letter on Tuesday in which they insisted the current environment provides the opportunity for a “fundamental and welcome change that will simplify our businesses, making them more environmentally and socially sustainable and ultimately align them more closely with customers’ needs.”

Primarily, they want to put the fall/winter season back to winter (August/January) and spring/summer season back in summer (February/July), create a more balanced flow of deliveries, and discount only at the end of the season.

“Working together, we hope these steps will allow our industry to become more responsible for our impact on our customers, on the planet and on the fashion community, and bring back the magic and creativity that has made fashion such an important part of our world,” they added.

Current signatories include Joseph Altuzarra, Craig Green, Erdem Moralioglu, Marine Serre, Mary Katrantzou, Pierre Hardy, Tory Burch, as well as Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler.

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Anna Wintour praises 2019 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund winners

Anna Wintour has lauded the winners of the 2019 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund.Members of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) held their annual gala dinner in partnership with Vogue magazine at the Cipriani South Street in New York on Monday ni…

Anna Wintour has lauded the winners of the 2019 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund.

Members of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) held their annual gala dinner in partnership with Vogue magazine at the Cipriani South Street in New York on Monday night, with the likes of Ashley Graham, Ben Platt, and sisters Gigi and Bella Hadid in attendance.

During the dinner, Christopher John Rogers was crowned the winner of the sixteenth CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, with Danielle Hirsch of Danielle Frankel and Reese Cooper named as runners-up.

“With this year’s Fashion Fund finalists, we’ve seen not only great design and talent, but a wonderful commitment to progressive and inclusive values,” said Wintour, editor-in-chief of U.S. Vogue. “Fashion should never be divorced from the values of the world and this year’s designers have taken that to heart.”

Rogers will receive $400,000 (£310,000), while the two runners-up walk home with $150,000 (£116,000) each. The three designers will also regularly meet with an assigned business mentor.

Winning the top prize in the prestigious competition marks a major moment in the career of Brooklyn-based Rogers. Born in Baton Rouge, the designer is quickly building up a reputation for his bold use of colour and playful silhouettes, with celebrities including Lizzo, Rihanna, Regina King, and Tracee Ellis Ross having worn his creations to events.

He follows in the footsteps of past winners such as Proenza Schouler, Alexander Wang, Joseph Altuzarra, Brock Collection, Telfar, and Pyer Moss.

“The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund continues to foster not only creative design talent but also an entrepreneurial spirit required in today’s changing fashion landscape,” added CFDA president and chief executive officer Steven Kolb. “This year’s finalists represent the best of American fashion’s future.”

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Target bringing back designer collections to celebrate 20th anniversary

Target is bringing back 20 designer collections, including its collaborations with Zac Posen and Missoni, to celebrate two decades of fashion partnerships.Executives at the U.S. retailer announced on Thursday that they are gearing up to launch the Anni…

Target is bringing back 20 designer collections, including its collaborations with Zac Posen and Missoni, to celebrate two decades of fashion partnerships.

Executives at the U.S. retailer announced on Thursday that they are gearing up to launch the Anniversary Collection, which will feature 300 products across clothing, accessories, home decor, and kitchen items. The line will drop on 14 September, with prices ranging from $7 to $160 (£6 – £130).

Previously, shoppers have queued for hours, and crashed Target’s website, in an effort to get their hands on items designed by the likes of Rodarte, Jason Wu, Proenza Schouler, Anna Sui, Altuzarra, Phillip Lim, and Lilly Pulitzer.

However, shoppers are restricted this time round to five items per size and colour from the collection, both in-store and online.

And Mark Tritton, chief merchandising officer at the U.S. retailer, teased more collaborations in the future.

“This anniversary celebrates our rich design history and the diverse range of partnerships we’ve offered our guests for the last 20 years,” he said in a statement. “Each partnership brought something special and exciting to our guests, and with 20 years behind us, we’re only getting started. We look forward to bringing our guests more incredible, inspiring and affordable design, creating preference for Target each and every day.”

The designers are a huge favourite with famous faces, and recently, Meghan, Duchess of Sussex wore a Jason Wu Collection dress to the London premiere of The Lion King reboot, while Katharine McPhee sported three custom Zac Posen dresses for her wedding to David Foster in London back in June.

Target has also teamed up with editors at publishing house Rizzoli to release Target: 20 Years of Design for All: How Target Revolutionized Accessible Design, a book which will highlight each designer collection over the years.

Additionally, bosses will release a documentary that will take a look behind the scenes at Target’s innovative approach to affordable design in September.

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Virgil Abloh and Kim Jones added to Vogue Forces of Fashion Summit

Virgil Abloh and Kim Jones have joined the 2019 Vogue Forces of Fashion Summit.The two-day event will take place in New York City on 10 and 11 October, with Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour resuming her role as host.CFDA chairman Tom Ford, Tory Burch…

Virgil Abloh and Kim Jones have joined the 2019 Vogue Forces of Fashion Summit.

The two-day event will take place in New York City on 10 and 11 October, with Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour resuming her role as host.

CFDA chairman Tom Ford, Tory Burch, Wes Gordon of Carolina Herrera, Kerby Jean-Raymond of Pyer Moss, and Proenza Schouler’s Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are also participating.

The theme of this year’s summit, which will include Q&As, experiential sessions and group discussions, focuses on the future of fashion. According to Vogue, designers, entrepreneurs, and cultural influencers will address topics from sustainability to inclusivity in “no-holds-barred, everything’s-on-the-table” conversations.

In a chat with the fashion glossy, Off-White founder and Louis Vuitton’s menswear artistic director Abloh explained his approach to fashion.

“From the beginning, I approached the idea of design from a grassroots level,” he mused. “I removed this idea that it’s somehow detached from the consumer.

“You don’t have to sit in your studio and throw a dart and hope that it lands on the bull’s-eye. If you actually walk up to the dartboard, you can just place it in the bull’s-eye. I think that’s the success of Off-White. I haven’t made a distinction between the design world and the real world – I’ve just immersed myself in both. And because I came from outside the fashion industry, I don’t have the luxury of creating collections in a traditional way.”

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Proenza Schouler opted for traditional tastes at NYFW

Proenza Schouler went back to “honest fabrics” for its fall/ winter 2019 collection.Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez showed off their latest work at New York Fashion Week on Monday night (11Feb19), with a presentation full of loose li…

Proenza Schouler went back to “honest fabrics” for its fall/ winter 2019 collection.

Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez showed off their latest work at New York Fashion Week on Monday night (11Feb19), with a presentation full of loose lines and flowing fits.

“I think for a long time we relied on these crazy fabrics that had never been done before and the technology of that,” Hernandez said backstage, according to the Star Tribune. “But somehow when you work too hard on that, you sort of lose the woman sometimes. So we really challenged ourselves to create new forms out of really honest fabrics, honest classic heritage fabrics from traditional looms, and to create fresh new fashion without the tricks of all that technology.”

Influenced by the “incomplete” open cubes of the late artist Sol LeWitt, models showed off swishing knit dresses, oversized suits and new takes on the cold shoulder – where material was cut out from nearer the armpit area.

Shailene Woodley, Liya Kebede and Karen Elson were among the celebrities who watched on as McCollough and Hernandez displayed their “version of the New York woman”.

Philipp Plein also showed in America’s fashion capital on Monday, stuffing his runway full of the sexy, edgy silhouettes he’s known for.

Leather looks worked well alongside chequered fabrics branded with the word Plein, with both men and women walking in the show.

Neon yellow was the German designer’s colour of the night, with the vivid hue used on men’s suit jackets, padded coats, stomach-baring tops, skintight trousers and on the signature yellow chequered garments.

Tuesday sees shows from Coach, Naeem Khan and Oscar de la Renta.

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Proenza Schouler designers buy back company

The founders of Proenza Schouler have bought back the company.Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who founded the New York-based brand in 2002, confirmed in a press release on Monday (12Nov18) that “a new group of private investors have bou…

The founders of Proenza Schouler have bought back the company.

Designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, who founded the New York-based brand in 2002, confirmed in a press release on Monday (12Nov18) that “a new group of private investors have bought back” the company in its entirety. This marks the exit of private equity firm Castanea Partners, who were sold a minority stake in 2015, as well as a group of investors led by John Howard, chief executive officer of Irving Place Capital, and Theory CEO Andrew Rosen – who both had personal stakes in the business.

A Proenza Schouler representative added that “a significant round of fresh capital has been raised during this process for the purposes of investing in the company’s growth and developmental strategies,” and that the money would be used to “enable the brand to expand globally by focusing on its core businesses of luxury ready-to-wear, leather goods and PSWL (the brand’s elevated basics line), as well as continuing to support its existing licensing partners L’Oréal Luxe and Onward Luxury Group SpA.”

The shift also coincides with an equally significant shake-up of Proenza Schouler’s senior executive team, with CEO Judd Crane and chief financial officer John Paolicelli stepping down from their positions, while Kay Hong has been named as the new CEO. Paolicelli has been replaced by Jonathan Friedman, who already had a consulting role with the company.

“We are thrilled to embark on this new, very exciting chapter of Proenza Schouler and are delighted about the team of industry leaders we have assembled who, together with us, will help drive the business to its full potential,” said McCollough and Hernandez in a join statement. “We couldn’t be happier to have Kay, Mary and Jon by our side and to once again have full authority over our company’s destiny.”

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Pyer Moss’ Kerby Jean-Raymond wins 2018 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund

Pyer Moss designer Kerby Jean-Raymond has won the 2018 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund.The fashion star, who launched his brand in 2013 – attracting celebrity fans including Tracee Ellis Ross and Issa Rae – is an outspoken advocate of social justice and makes …

Pyer Moss designer Kerby Jean-Raymond has won the 2018 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund.

The fashion star, who launched his brand in 2013 – attracting celebrity fans including Tracee Ellis Ross and Issa Rae – is an outspoken advocate of social justice and makes a point to celebrate Black culture with his designs, with his spring 2016 menswear line referencing the Black Lives Matter movement via the use of video and street art.

At a gala hosted by U.S. Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour and the CFDA’s Diane von Furstenberg at the Brooklyn Navy Yard in Brooklyn, New York on Monday night (05Nov18), with stars such as Karlie Kloss, La La Anthony, Chanel Iman, Karolina Kurkova and Zac Posen in attendance, it was announced by actress Emily Blunt that Jean-Raymond has won the prestigious CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, taking home $400,000 (£306,000). Emily Adams Bode of Bode and Jonathan Cohen were named runners-up, each receiving $150,000 (£114,000).

“At a time when our world faces so many challenges, I’m impressed by this year’s winners,” Wintour said. “Their work highlights a high degree of creativity and a deep-rooted commitment to the notion of community. They’re not only a credit to the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund as it celebrates its fifteenth anniversary, but also to the optimism and inclusivity of the very best American fashion.”

The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, established in 2003, helps emerging American design talent find continued success in the business of fashion.

Other finalists in the 2018 competition included Batsheva Hay of Batsheva, Christian Cowan, Danielle Corona of Hunting Season, Rebecca de Ravenel, Matthew Adams Dolan and Scosha Woolridge of Scosha.

CFDA president and chief executive officer Steven Kolb also praised the latest round of competitors and added: “For 15 years, the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund has provided emerging talent with a path to become tomorrow’s American fashion leaders. In the process, we have identified many fashion stars, and created a culture that welcomes and fosters young talent.”

Previous winners of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund have included Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler, Alexander Wang and Joseph Altuzarra of Altuzarra.

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Proenza Schouler designers open up about Lancome make-up collaboration

Proenza Schouler designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have opened up about their colourful new make-up line with Lancome.The duo’s 23-piece make-up collection with the beauty giant made its official debut on the runway at the Proenza Schouler…

Proenza Schouler designers Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez have opened up about their colourful new make-up line with Lancome.

The duo’s 23-piece make-up collection with the beauty giant made its official debut on the runway at the Proenza Schouler spring/summer 2019 show during New York Fashion Week, with the line incorporating eyeshadow palettes, a liquid highlighter, kajal eyeliners, lipsticks, and an eggplant mascara.

It’s a colourful follow-up to their first-ever fragrance Arizona, which launched in January, but the pair revealed they have worked hard to move away from that “out-west kind of world” and bring the theme back to “a very kind of New York moment”.

Like the fragrance, the Lancome collection, developed with guidance from the brand’s global creative director, Lisa Eldridge, also serves as an opportunity for more people to access the 16-year-old Proenza Schouler label.

“It’s been cool to work on products that are still these luxury products but more accessible to a broader audience,” McCollough shared with Allure. “A brand like Lancome has such a broad reach, and it can reach so many more people, so many different kinds of people than what we can do with just the ready-to-wear and the accessories and shoes.”

Inspired by the works of graphic yet minimalist painters Ellsworth Kelly and Carmen Herrera, McCollough and Hernandez decided to zoom in on the iconic rose from Lancome’s logo, the result of which has formed the basis for the graphics used on the packaging for the collection.

New York, the city the pair celebrated in their most recent show following two seasons in Paris, also drives the inspiration behind the collection.

“We wanted to keep the product offer pretty broad, lots of colour, lots of variation,” Hernandez said. “If New York is sort of the starting point for this whole thing, it should be really diverse. There should be something for everyone. It should be fun and inclusive. It should be light and fun and not so serious.”

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Naomi Campbell to be honoured by Essence at New York Fashion Week

Naomi Campbell is to be honoured by Essence magazine during this year’s New York Fashion Week (18).The publication will pay tribute to the acclaimed supermodel at its annual Street Style festival, which will take place at Duggal Greenhouse in Brooklyn …

Naomi Campbell is to be honoured by Essence magazine during this year’s New York Fashion Week (18).

The publication will pay tribute to the acclaimed supermodel at its annual Street Style festival, which will take place at Duggal Greenhouse in Brooklyn on 9 September, according to Page Six. Described as the “most fashion-forward day party of the year,” the event will be hosted by Insecure actress and comedienne, Amanda Seales, while singer Kelis and fashion influencer Kellie Brown will also receive honours.

Naomi has long been lauded by Essence and graced the magazine’s cover on several occasions, notably fronting the September 2010 issue alongside fellow models Iman and Liya Kebede.

The British fashion icon has enjoyed a career spanning decades, walking for the world’s biggest fashion houses, including Vivienne Westwood, Dior and Chanel. She was also the first black model to appear on the covers of French Vogue and Time, and her impressive legacy recently earned her the prestigious Icon Award at Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) Awards, a prize which has previously been bestowed upon the likes of Kate Moss, Rihanna, Beyonce, David Bowie and Pharrell Williams.

“It is truly an honour to be recognised by the CFDA with this year’s Fashion Icon Award,” Naomi told Vogue. “Being from London, my personal style has always been tremendously influenced by both the dynamic, ever-changing nature of street culture and the music scene. I grew up in this industry and I’m forever grateful to the iconic American fashion designers who have supported me and celebrated me throughout my career.”

New York Fashion Week will take place from 6 to 14 September. U.S. brands Rodarte and Proenza Schouler will both return to the city to present spring/summer 2019 collections, while Longchamp is trading its usual Paris Fashion Week residence for a show in the Big Apple.

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