Paul Andrew placing namesake footwear brand on hold

Paul Andrew is pushing pause on his namesake brand so he can focus on Salvatore Ferragamo.The British designer worked in the footwear and accessories departments of the likes of Narciso Rodriguez, Calvin Klein, and Donna Karan before setting up his epo…

Paul Andrew is pushing pause on his namesake brand so he can focus on Salvatore Ferragamo.

The British designer worked in the footwear and accessories departments of the likes of Narciso Rodriguez, Calvin Klein, and Donna Karan before setting up his eponymous line in 2012, with fans of his shoes including Jessica Chastain, Emma Stone, and Kerry Washington.

But as Andrew was named as Ferragamo’s first-ever women’s footwear design director in September 2016 and promoted to creative director of the Italian house last month, the fashion star has now confirmed that he has decided to put a hold on his own range.

“It wasn’t the easiest decision by any means,” he said in an interview with The New York Times. “It wasn’t as if business was bad, and I have worked very hard to build the Paul Andrew brand into what it is today. But I’ve been offered such a big opportunity from Ferragamo, and I want it to be a success. There is a lot of work to do that will need my one focus and energy, not to mention a lot of time in Italy. This felt like the right call.”

Andrew went on to explain that his spring 2019 collection will be the last stocked in boutiques and online, though he plans to keep the company open in some form and will continue to design custom footwear for his long-running clients.

And while shuttering his label wasn’t an easy call, he emphasised that there simply wasn’t enough time in the day for him to run two businesses.

“I do feel sad, but I also know it is what I need to do, given that the double workload was already a stretch, both emotionally and physically, when I was only working on Ferragamo womenswear,” the designer reflected. “I am proud of all I have achieved under my own name. Now my mind is made up.”

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Ferragamo boss insists fashion house is not for sale

The chairman of Salvatore Ferragamo has shut down rumours that the brand is for sale.According to editors at The Business of Fashion, sales at the luxury clothing and accessories company fell last year (18). And shares have fallen 43 per cent since the…

The chairman of Salvatore Ferragamo has shut down rumours that the brand is for sale.

According to editors at The Business of Fashion, sales at the luxury clothing and accessories company fell last year (18). And shares have fallen 43 per cent since their peak in 2015.

However, following the death of matriarch Wanda Ferragamo in October at the age of 96, they surged upwards amid speculation that the founding family would welcome a takeover. But chairman Ferruccio Ferragamo has insisted the brand would remain in the family.

“I’m in love with this company and it’s not for sale,” Ferragamo told BoF backstage at the brand’s Fall/ Winter 19 show at Milan Fashion Week on Saturday. “There’s a lot of energy in the brand. We have a lot of programs coming to turn that energy into good news in the coming weeks and months.”

His comments come as Ferragamo’s womenswear creative director, Paul Andrew, was promoted to the role of creative director at the luxury goods company.

“The idea is to reinforce the coherence and the consistency throughout the brand,” said chief executive officer Micaela Le Divelec Lemmi, who described the British designer’s promotion as “a natural evolution”.

Ferragamo’s silk scarves and Vara pumps have long been popular but the brand has struggled to gain a share of the online market and to attract younger luxury shoppers. But despite the downturn, Ferragamo’s Chinese retail sales recently jumped 7.6 per cent in the final quarter in a potential early sign of a turnaround.

“We have a very loyal customer base that I can’t ignore,” Andrew said backstage after the show. “I have to keep them engaged while we try to bring in a new generation.”

The brand also plans to boost the visibility of the ready-to-wear clothing collections in stores to create a more immersive experience for customers.

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Paul Andrew appointed as creative director of Salvatore Ferragamo

Salvatore Ferragamo has promoted Paul Andrew to the role of creative director.The British designer joined the Italian house in 2016 as women’s footwear director and was promoted a year later to women’s creative director.It was announced on Thursday…

Salvatore Ferragamo has promoted Paul Andrew to the role of creative director.

The British designer joined the Italian house in 2016 as women’s footwear director and was promoted a year later to women’s creative director.

It was announced on Thursday (21Feb19) that Andrew has been promoted to the role of creative director of the brand. The move comes two days before the Salvatore Ferragamo women’s fall fashion show, which will take place on Saturday during Milan Fashion Week.

Andrew, who launched his eponymous men’s and women’s footwear brand in 2013, said he was “thrilled” with his new role in the “exceptional house”.

“(Ferragamo is) a tremendous platform from which to create and inspire — and we have the conviction to succeed,” he gushed. “I am thrilled by the opportunity and humbled by the challenge to contribute to the future of Salvatore Ferragamo and further realise the dreams of its founder.”

As women’s footwear director, Andrew’s ready to wear collections and footwear designs at the brand have received positive reviews, earning him a legion of celebrity followers, including Emma Watson and Emmy Rossum.

Hailing Andrew’s “dynamic vision,” Ferragamo’s chief executive officer, Eraldo Poletto, was quick to praise the designer’s creativity and passion

“Paul has a dynamic vision for the Ferragamo woman, which he has demonstrated with crystal precision and success in footwear over the past year,” he stated. “He has a sensitivity for the essential codes and values of the Ferragamo house, and is able to recast and reassert them with an exciting, modern energy.”

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Missoni family sells minority stake in brand

Missoni has sold a minority stake in the company to an equity fund.The Varese-based fashion house, known for its colourful knitwear designs, was founded by Ottavio and Rosita Missoni in 1953 and is now controlled by son Luca and daughter Angela Missoni…

Missoni has sold a minority stake in the company to an equity fund.

The Varese-based fashion house, known for its colourful knitwear designs, was founded by Ottavio and Rosita Missoni in 1953 and is now controlled by son Luca and daughter Angela Missoni.

However, on Friday (15Jun18) a representative for the brand announced that the Missoni family had sold a 41.2 per cent stake to Italian state-backed private equity group Fondo Strategico Italiano (FSI).

“I am happy. I see a better stronger future for my children,” Rosita told The Financial Times of the deal, with a brand spokesperson adding that the new partnership would see Missoni become “a modern and global player with an adequate organisational structure and size to compete in the global fashion and luxury industry”.

The remaining shares will remain with the Missoni family members, with the investment carried out primarily through a capital increase.

In addition, former managing director of Salvatore Ferragamo, Michele Norsa, has been appointed as deputy chairman of Missoni.

Last year, Angela celebrated 20 years as creative director of business, expanding the brand to include eveningwear, swimwear and accessories, over the years. Luca is in charge of the company’s art projects and archives. Eldest brother Vittorio Missoni, who previously led the business aspects of the brand, was killed in a plane crash in 2013.

The deal comes one day after Belgian designer Dries Van Noten announced that he had sold a majority stake in his label to Spanish fashion conglomerate Puig, after holding his company privately for 32 years.

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Salvatore Ferragamo reissuing shoes made famous by Old Hollywood stars

Salvatore Ferragamo is reissuing three pairs of shoes first made famous by stars from the Golden Age of Hollywood.Designer Ferragamo began his shoe design career in his native Italy before moving to America in 1914 where he later found success as the s…

Salvatore Ferragamo is reissuing three pairs of shoes first made famous by stars from the Golden Age of Hollywood.

Designer Ferragamo began his shoe design career in his native Italy before moving to America in 1914 where he later found success as the shoemaker to the stars.

Joan Crawford, Gloria Swanson and Mary Pickford were among his famous clientele, and shoes worn by the three women are being reissued in conjunction with a new exhibition, Italy in Hollywood, about the footwear designer’s relationship with the period opening at Museo Salvatore Ferragamo in Florence.

The three shoe styles are the Foxtrot, a leather T-strap shoe with a kidskin heel first worn by a then-unknown Crawford as she was trying to break into Hollywood, the Bella, a black brushed calfskin pump with a coordinating ankle strap seen on Swanson in 1928 silent film Sadie Thompson, and the Assoluta, a closed-toe suede shoe with a toe-cap and double calfskin straps – a favourite of Pickford.

Talking about the shoes, Stefania Ricci, the head of the Ferragamo archive, explained the importance of Ferragamo’s designs during Hollywood’s golden period.

“Ferragamo’s models and decorations dictated the fashion of the period,” Ricci said, according to Vogue.co.uk. “Shoes were characterised by a high heel, and a shape supposed to point out femininity.”

In his autobiography, Ferragamo, who died in 1960 at the age of 62, recalled what an impact his shoes had during the time.

“I captured virtually the entire theatrical trade, and my shoes were on the feet of the most fabulous movie stars in the world, on the feet of dancers, showgirls, bit-players, directors, and producers,” he wrote.

Paul Andrew was appointed the creative director of womenswear at Salvatore Ferragamo in October (17).

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Paul Andrew introduces shoe customisation service

Paul Andrew is giving customers a chance to personalise their footwear.The British designer has added three of his most popular pairs of shoes to a new online customisation programme which is exclusively available to buy through Farfetch. Fans of the b…

Paul Andrew is giving customers a chance to personalise their footwear.

The British designer has added three of his most popular pairs of shoes to a new online customisation programme which is exclusively available to buy through Farfetch. Fans of the brand are able to make the Rhea flats, Rhea 55-millimeter kitten heels and Ankara orb heels their own by covering the pieces in a range of unique fabrics and embellishments.

Patterns available include patent leather, grosgrain and suede, while customers also have the final say when it comes to the colour and fabric of the vamp heel tip and slingback depending on the specific design.

Andrew, who is also the creative director for Salvatore Ferragamo’s women’s assortment, believes that a customisation initiative was the obvious next step in growing his brand.

“(It’s) something I’ve been thinking about for quite a long time — it’s a natural progression in the business,” he shared in an interview with WWD.

“I’m consistently receiving requests for customised shoes through social media, from excellent clients, a lot of brides, all in need of something really special.”

The award-winning designer also believes that the company’s latest venture will build a closer relationship with the customers his eponymous label attracts.

“I think it’s really interesting at this point to offer the customer something they can’t find elsewhere, a special shoe someone created themselves that’s incredibly personal. Offering this technology feels like a meaningful way to engage with consumers,” he smiled.

Prices start at $690 (£502) and run up to $2,500 (£1,817) for pairs covered in exotic skins such as python and crocodile.

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