CFDA announce 2020 Fashion Award nominees

The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) has released the nominations for the 2020 Fashion Awards, though are forgoing all honouree prizes this year.The shortlist was released on Monday, with The Row designers Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, Drie…

The Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) has released the nominations for the 2020 Fashion Awards, though are forgoing all honouree prizes this year.

The shortlist was released on Monday, with The Row designers Mary-Kate and Ashley Olsen, Dries Van Noten and Tom Ford all up for multiple awards.

However, executives have decided against some of the awards’ usual categories, including the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award, Fashion Icon and Media Award, among others.

Instead, two new categories have been included; Global Women’s Designer of the Year and Global Men’s Designer of the Year.

Winners will be revealed on the morning of 14 September, kicking off the official New York Fashion Week schedule, after the original date, 8 June, was postponed due to the Covid-19 pandemic.

“In this time of unprecedented challenge and change for our industry, we feel very strongly that it is important to recognize the nominees representing the best of fashion creativity,” said Tom Ford, chairman of the CFDA. “We look forward to returning to an in-person celebration honoring the American fashion industry in 2021.”

Steven Kolb, president and chief executive officer of the CFDA, added: “In lieu of the in-person event, we will be prioritising new and existing programming to support our designer community during the global pandemic — by redirecting efforts toward next generation scholarships and making important changes to bring racial equity to the fashion industry. The annual gala serves as our largest fund-raiser, and our hope is to continue raising money to support this work through industry contributions.”

The 2020 CFDA Fashion Award nominees:

American Womenswear Designer of the Year:

Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row

Brandon Maxwell

Gabriela Hearst

Marc Jacobs

Tom Ford

American Menswear Designer of the Year:

Emily Adams Bode for Bode

Kerby Jean-Raymond for Pyer Moss

Thom Browne

Todd Snyder

Tom Ford

American Accessories Designer of the Year:

Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row

Gabriela Hearst

Jennifer Fisher for Jennifer Fisher Jewelry

Stuart Vevers for Coach

Telfar Clemens for Telfar

American Emerging Designer of the Year:

Christopher John Rogers

Kenneth Nicholson

Peter Do

Reese Cooper

Sarah Staudinger

George Augusto for Staud

Global Women’s Designer of the Year:

Daniel Lee for Bottega Veneta

Dries Van Noten

Miuccia Prada for Prada

Pierpaolo Piccioli for Valentino

Rick Owens

Global Men’s Designer of the Year:

Craig Green

Dries Van Noten

Jonathan Anderson for Loewe

Kim Jones for Dior

Virgil Abloh for Louis Vuitton

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CFDA launching initiatives to combat systemic racism in fashion

Members of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) are launching new initiatives to help fight systemic racism in the industry.In the wake of the shocking death of African-American man George Floyd at the hands of Minnesota police officers o…

Members of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) are launching new initiatives to help fight systemic racism in the industry.

In the wake of the shocking death of African-American man George Floyd at the hands of Minnesota police officers on 25 May, numerous anti-racism protests have taken place across the U.S. and in major cities around the world.

Now, in response to the demonstrations, CFDA chairman Tom Ford and CFDA president and chief executive officer Steven Kolb have announced that the organisation will be employing new measures to help combat injustice within the fashion industry.

“Having a clear voice and speaking out against racial injustice, bigotry and hatred is the first step, but this is not enough,” they stated. “This is a deeply disturbing moment that speaks to us all. Our world is in deep pain. Our industry is in pain and it is not enough to simply say that we stand in solidarity with those who are discriminated against. We must do something.”

Effective immediately, the CFDA is creating an in-house employment programme specifically charged with placing black talent in all sectors of the fashion business to help achieve a racially-balanced industry, and will be founding a new mentorship and internship programme focused on students and recent graduates. Ford and Kolb will also be implementing a diversity and inclusion training programme for all members, and are making donations to civil rights organisations, including the National Association for the Advancement of Colored People (NAACP) and Campaign Zero.

“We urge each and every member of the CFDA to take stock of their corporate structure to ensure that they have a racially balanced workforce and we challenge the retail sector of the fashion industry to ensure that their roster of brands and their product assortment is representative of the Black talent within the industry,” they concluded.

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Bob Mackie to receive CFDA’s Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award

Bob Mackie is to be honoured with the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award at the 2019 Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) Fashion Awards.The 80-year-old is one of the industry’s most prolific fashion designers and costumers, having wor…

Bob Mackie is to be honoured with the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award at the 2019 Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) Fashion Awards.

The 80-year-old is one of the industry’s most prolific fashion designers and costumers, having worked closely with entertainment icons including Joan Rivers, RuPaul, Bette Midler, Diana Ross, Tina Turner, Carol Burnett, and Cher.

Now, Mackie is to receive one of the most prestigious prizes at the upcoming CDFA Fashion Awards.

“Bob Mackie is one of the most prolific designers of all time,” said Steven Kolb, president and chief executive officer of the CFDA, in a statement. “He is a true artist and the ultimate showman.”

Mackie started out working as a sketch artist for legendary French haute couturier Jean Louis, and in 1969, was hired to design costumes for Ross, The Supremes, and The Temptations, in the TV special G.I.T. on Broadway. He continued to make stage costumes for Motown star Ross, and also oversaw the wardrobes for Mitzi Gaynor, Ann-Margret, The Carol Burnett Show, and Minnelli On Minnelli with Liza Minnelli, among others, though is perhaps best known for creating the showstopping black ensemble Cher wore to the 1986 Academy Awards.

In a post regarding the announcement on his Instagram page, Mackie described the prize as a “tremendous honour”.

Previously, the California native was presented with the Fashion Exuberance Award by Ross at a CFDA event in 2001.

He has also received three Oscar nominations for Best Costume Design for his work on films like 1981’s Pennies from Heaven and 1975’s Funny Lady, and most recently, received a 2019 Tony Award nomination for Best Costume Design in a Musical for making the costumes for Broadway’s The Cher Show.

The 2019 CFDA Fashion Awards will be held on 3 June (19) at the Brooklyn Museum. Others to be feted include French stylist Carine Roitfeld, who will be presented with the Founder’s Award, and singer/actress Jennifer Lopez, who will collect the Icon Award.

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Tom Ford to develop CFDA’s international perspective as new chairman

Tom Ford is keen to develop a more international perspective for the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s (CFDA) when he takes over from Diane von Furstenberg as chairman of the trade association.Ford’s appointment to the role was first rumoured l…

Tom Ford is keen to develop a more international perspective for the Council of Fashion Designers of America’s (CFDA) when he takes over from Diane von Furstenberg as chairman of the trade association.

Ford’s appointment to the role was first rumoured last week, and the CFDA board met on Tuesday (19Mar19) to vote on his nomination. It was later confirmed the designer will step into the position in June, and Ford already has high hopes for what he can do as chairman.

“Coming back from Europe, what’s stunning to me was the isolation I feel here. I feel that America is one of the most isolated countries in the world. We’re very inward looking,” he told Business of Fashion. “What American fashion needs to become in order to be more relevant in the world is to think of itself as not just American but as international.”

Furstenberg has been chairman for the past 13 years, but is well aware the organisation now needs a fresh perspective. And she agrees that Ford, who served stints as creative director at Gucci and Yves Saint Laurent before launching his eponymous fashion and beauty brand in 2006, is the perfect man for the job.

“When I came in they needed a mother. Now they need a statesman,” she explained. “What I think is great about Tom, a designer that all designers respect and admire, is that he’s a global person (who has helped build) large companies.”

Ford, 57, will be working closely with CFDA chief executive officer Steven Kolb in his new role, and will be the 11th person to take the position of chairman – with former executives including Sydney Wragge, Norman Norell, Oscar de la Renta, and Herbert Kasper.

“Given his experience working for large luxury brands like Gucci under Kering and having started his own business not so long ago, (Ford) has a wide range of experience that will be incredibly valuable.”

According to Business of Fashion, Michael Kors and Tory Burch were among the other designers considered for the role of chairman before bosses settled on Ford.

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Virgil Abloh leads 2019 CFDA Fashion Awards nominations

Virgil Abloh leads the 2019 Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) Fashion Awards nominations with two nods.Officials from the trade association announced the nominees for the prestigious prizes on Tuesday (19Mar19), with Louis Vuitton menswear…

Virgil Abloh leads the 2019 Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) Fashion Awards nominations with two nods.

Officials from the trade association announced the nominees for the prestigious prizes on Tuesday (19Mar19), with Louis Vuitton menswear designer Abloh picking up nominations in the Menswear and Accessory Designer of the Year categories for his streetwear label Off-White.

The 38-year-old will face off with Mike Amiri, Pyer Moss’ Kerby Jean-Raymond, Rick Owens, and Thom Browne for the menswear prize, and against Jennifer Fisher, Tabitha Simmons, Telfar Clemens and The Row’s Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen in the Accessory Designer of the Year group.

Sander Lak for Sies Marjan, who won the Emerging Talent prize last year, has moved up to the Womenswear Designer of the Year category, as have Brandon Maxwell and Rosie Assoulin. The designers are joined by Marc Jacobs and Rodarte’s Kate and Laura Mulleavy.

In addition, organisers shared that Alexander McQueen creative director Sarah Burton will receive the Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti International Award, Eileen Fisher will be bestowed with the Positive Change Award for her commitment to sustainability, stylist and CR Fashion Book editor-in-chief Carine Roitfeld will receive the Founder’s Award in honour of CFDA founder Eleanor Lambert, and fashion editor and writer Lynn Yaeger will take home the Media Award in honour of Eugenia Sheppard.

“The CFDA Fashion Awards celebrate the outstanding creativity in American fashion,” CFDA president and chief executive officer Steven Kolb said in a statement. “There will be exciting changes to this year’s awards, and we are honoured to have Valentino and Giancarlo Giammetti join us as we name the International Award.”

The 2019 CFDA Fashion Awards will take place at the Brooklyn Museum on 3 June.

The complete list of nominees is as follows:

Womenswear Designer of the Year

Brandon Maxwell

Marc Jacobs

Kate Mulleavy and Laura Mulleavy for Rodarte

Rosie Assoulin

Sander Lak for Sies Marjan

Menswear Designer of the Year

Mike Amiri for Amiri

Virgil Abloh for Off-White

Kerby Jean-Raymond for Pyer Moss

Rick Owens

Thom Browne for Thom Browne New York

Accessory Designer of the Year

Jennifer Fisher for Jennifer Fisher Jewelry

Virgil Abloh for Off-White

Tabitha Simmons

Telfar Clemens for Telfar

Ashley Olsen and Mary-Kate Olsen for The Row

Emerging Designer of the Year

Emily Adams Bode for Bode

Beth Bugdaycay for Foundrae

Heron Preston

Catherine Holstein for Khaite

Sarah Staudinger and George Augusto for Staud

Valentino Garavani and Giancarlo Giammetti International Award – Sarah Burton for Alexander McQueen

The Positive Change Award – Eileen Fisher

The Founder’s Award – Carine Roitfeld

The Media Award – Lynn Yaeger

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Steven Kolb ‘asks designers not to cast models under 18 for NYFW’

Steven Kolb has reportedly urged big-name fashion houses to avoid using models under the age of 18 at the upcoming New York Fashion Week.Kolb, the head of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), has sent an email round, according to Page Si…

Steven Kolb has reportedly urged big-name fashion houses to avoid using models under the age of 18 at the upcoming New York Fashion Week.

Kolb, the head of the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA), has sent an email round, according to Page Six, ahead of the biannual fashion event, which kicks off on 8 February (19).

“As you cast your New York Fashion Week shows, please remember to promote diversity and inclusion, on and off the runway,” he wrote. “American fashion can lead the path. Additionally, we strongly encourage you to support the well-being of younger individuals by not hiring models under the age of 18 for runway shows, and to create areas backstage for models to change in privacy.”

He made a similar call last year, but it fell on deaf ears with a lot of the top labels.

Model of the moment Kaia Gerber, who is a regular on the runway in Paris and Milan, and Thylane Blondeau, who was recently named most beautiful face of 2018, are both yet to reach the milestone birthday.

Kaia is also one of Marc Jacobs’ go-to models, walking in his New York Fashion Week Spring/ Summer 19 show in September. And, despite only just turning 17, she also appeared in Calvin Klein, Coach and Anna Sui’s shows that season.

The news comes after Vogue, in partnership with the CFDA, vowed not to use models under 18.

“Young models are still developing,” Kolb said last August. “There can be a lack of the confidence, strength, experience, and maturity it takes to deal with the pressures of this work. The CFDA supports the recommendation of raising the minimum age – we want young models to have the time to come into their own so they feel safe and in charge in the workplace.”

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Pyer Moss’ Kerby Jean-Raymond wins 2018 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund

Pyer Moss designer Kerby Jean-Raymond has won the 2018 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund.The fashion star, who launched his brand in 2013 – attracting celebrity fans including Tracee Ellis Ross and Issa Rae – is an outspoken advocate of social justice and makes …

Pyer Moss designer Kerby Jean-Raymond has won the 2018 CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund.

The fashion star, who launched his brand in 2013 – attracting celebrity fans including Tracee Ellis Ross and Issa Rae – is an outspoken advocate of social justice and makes a point to celebrate Black culture with his designs, with his spring 2016 menswear line referencing the Black Lives Matter movement via the use of video and street art.

At a gala hosted by U.S. Vogue editor-in-chief Anna Wintour and the CFDA’s Diane von Furstenberg at the Brooklyn Navy Yard in Brooklyn, New York on Monday night (05Nov18), with stars such as Karlie Kloss, La La Anthony, Chanel Iman, Karolina Kurkova and Zac Posen in attendance, it was announced by actress Emily Blunt that Jean-Raymond has won the prestigious CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, taking home $400,000 (£306,000). Emily Adams Bode of Bode and Jonathan Cohen were named runners-up, each receiving $150,000 (£114,000).

“At a time when our world faces so many challenges, I’m impressed by this year’s winners,” Wintour said. “Their work highlights a high degree of creativity and a deep-rooted commitment to the notion of community. They’re not only a credit to the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund as it celebrates its fifteenth anniversary, but also to the optimism and inclusivity of the very best American fashion.”

The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund, established in 2003, helps emerging American design talent find continued success in the business of fashion.

Other finalists in the 2018 competition included Batsheva Hay of Batsheva, Christian Cowan, Danielle Corona of Hunting Season, Rebecca de Ravenel, Matthew Adams Dolan and Scosha Woolridge of Scosha.

CFDA president and chief executive officer Steven Kolb also praised the latest round of competitors and added: “For 15 years, the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund has provided emerging talent with a path to become tomorrow’s American fashion leaders. In the process, we have identified many fashion stars, and created a culture that welcomes and fosters young talent.”

Previous winners of the CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund have included Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez of Proenza Schouler, Alexander Wang and Joseph Altuzarra of Altuzarra.

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Narciso Rodriguez tops off mammoth year with Couture Council prize

Narciso Rodriguez is grateful to have been recognised by his peers after picking up the 2018 Couture Council Award for Artistry of Fashion.It was announced in May that the America designer would be honoured by the Couture Council of The Museum at FIT, …

Narciso Rodriguez is grateful to have been recognised by his peers after picking up the 2018 Couture Council Award for Artistry of Fashion.

It was announced in May that the America designer would be honoured by the Couture Council of The Museum at FIT, and on Wednesday (05Sep18) at a special luncheon in New York, Rodriguez picked up his prize.

“What a year it’s been,” he told WWD. “I’m very grateful for each one. I never placed a great deal of importance on awards, but it’s really great to be recognised among your peers. It means so much.”

He also won the Geoffrey Beene Lifetime Achievement Award from the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) in June.

Taking to the podium at the bash held in his honour, Rodriguez thanked his Cuban parents.

“(My parents) who worked so hard as young immigrants so that I could have the opportunity to succeed,” he said, before going on to thank his staff, husband and children.

Rodriguez also praised Calvin Klein and Donna Karan, both of whom he worked for before starting his own label.

American author Jessica Seinfeld, wife of comedian Jerry Seinfeld, presented Rodriguez with his award, in front of guests including CFDA president Steven Kolb, designer Ralph Rucci and photographer Arthur Elgort.

The event comes not long after the designer celebrated the 20th anniversary of his namesake label. Earlier this year, he pulled together some of his favourite looks for a limited-edition line to mark the style milestone.

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CFDA officials lead call to action over young models

Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) executives have reaffirmed their commitment to no longer using models under the age of 18.Earlier in the year (18), bosses at the fashion group and at U.S. media company Conde Nast, publisher of Vogue and …

Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA) executives have reaffirmed their commitment to no longer using models under the age of 18.

Earlier in the year (18), bosses at the fashion group and at U.S. media company Conde Nast, publisher of Vogue and other magazines, introduced new codes of conduct regarding photoshoots and runway shows in light of the #MeToo movement and claims of sexual misconduct in the entertainment and fashion industries.

Now, in the lead-up to New York Fashion Week in September, leaders have confirmed their commitment to protecting models.

“We believe working with age-appropriate models is paramount to their wellbeing,” CFDA officials said in a statement. “We always recommended not working with models under 16 but in light of recent revelations, we now encourage you to consider only working with models aged 18 and over.”

In addition, CFDA organisers stated that they were actively working with agents and photography studios to ensure models have private backstage changing rooms at various venues.

The guidelines mean that rising models such as Kaia Gerber, 16, and Thylane Blondeau, 17, will most likely not be able to participate. However, in a piece about the topic published on Vogue.com on Thursday (16Aug18), CFDA president and chief executive officer Steven Kolb explained that it is important that fashion organisations and magazines set a precedent.

“Young models are still developing. There can be a lack of the confidence, strength, experience, and maturity it takes to deal with the pressures of this work. The CFDA supports the recommendation of raising the minimum age – we want young models to have the time to come into their own so they feel safe and in charge in the workplace,” he said.

Other organisations have also recently introduced stricter codes, with the British Fashion Council setting up a helpline for models, and Moet Hennessy Louis Vuitton (LVMH) and Kering releasing a charter in which the luxury conglomerates both agreed to ban very thin and underage models from the runway.

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Joseph Altuzarra wins top honours at fashion awards ceremony

Joseph Altuzarra was named Designer of the Year at the American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA)’s 40th American Image Awards.The awards show took place on Monday night (16Apr18) in New York, with journalist Katie Couric hosting the evening.After …

Joseph Altuzarra was named Designer of the Year at the American Apparel & Footwear Association (AAFA)’s 40th American Image Awards.

The awards show took place on Monday night (16Apr18) in New York, with journalist Katie Couric hosting the evening.

After picking up his award from Couric, who was wearing a Joseph Altuzarra dress, the French designer took time to thank his team.

“It’s always a very touching and moving opportunity to be able to take the time to look back at the year you’ve had, and I’ve shared with my entire team and I think, feel pride, and to be very grateful for a lot of people in this room who helped and encourage us,” he stated, thanking the AAFA, his hard-working team and CEO Karis Durmer, press and retail partners, and the Council of Fashion Designers of America (CFDA).

“This has been a landmark year for Altuzarra. We’ve taken a lot of risks, shown in Paris, and I would like to thank Steven (Kolb, CFDA CEO) and the CFDA for all of their guidance and encouragement, I really appreciate it.”

The CFDA was chosen as the awards beneficiary for the second year, while Camuto Group went home with Company of the Year. Clothing store Fred Segal was awarded Retailer of the Year, Emanuel Chirico was honoured as Person of the Year and Rachel Mansur and Floriana Gavriel of Mansur Gavriel were named Fashion Maverick.

“The apparel and footwear industry includes some of the most creative minds in the business community, and it is a great privilege to bring everyone together for a night to celebrate our remarkable achievements,” said AAFA president and CEO Rick Helfenbein. “Last night was one of a kind. We were thrilled to honour such standout visionaries and leaders, and to partner for a second year with the CFDA Foundation to support its great work investing in the future of the fashion industry.”

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