Olivier Theyskens named creative director of Azzaro

Olivier Theyskens has been appointed the creative director of French fashion house Azzaro.The Belgian designer launched his namesake brand back in 1998, but shuttered the line after four years to take up stints at Rochas, Nina Ricci, and Theory. Theysk…

Olivier Theyskens has been appointed the creative director of French fashion house Azzaro.

The Belgian designer launched his namesake brand back in 1998, but shuttered the line after four years to take up stints at Rochas, Nina Ricci, and Theory.

Theyskens rebooted his own label in 2016, and after several seasons showing in Paris, he has now been tapped by bosses to reinvigorate the company founded by Loris Azzaro in 1967.

“Loris Azzaro left behind a considerable, very inspiring legacy,” he said in a statement. “I am excited, thrilled and honoured to have the opportunity of bringing my vision to this legendary, iconoclastic House, for which freedom and pleasure remain ever-as-contemporary founding values. I would like to carry on this atypical universe through my collections while infusing them with my own perspective.”

Theyskens, known for his dark yet romantic aesthetic and use of the colour black, will unveil his debut line for Azzaro during Paris Couture Week in July.

In addition to overseeing the brand’s workshop in the French capital, he will continue to work on collections for his own fashion house.

Accordingly, Azzaro’s chief executive officer, Gabriel de Linage, is excited to see what the 43-year-old brings to the label.

“His renowned talent, experience and creative vision will empower the house’s future with spirit and sparkle,” he praised. “Olivier Theyskens has a unique ability to immerse himself in a legacy and to revisit it in a contemporary verve. His fondness for asserted sensuousness and the flowing contrasts of materials and cuts naturally echo the style of Loris Azzaro and his emblematic muses. We are thrilled to welcome him to our house and to our historical workshops.”

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Theory co-founder Andrew Rosen stepping down as CEO

Andrew Rosen is stepping down as chief executive officer of Theory after 22 years in the position.The 62-year-old, who also co-founded the contemporary firm 22 years ago, will be leaving his current role on 1 April (19), and instead will become an advi…

Andrew Rosen is stepping down as chief executive officer of Theory after 22 years in the position.

The 62-year-old, who also co-founded the contemporary firm 22 years ago, will be leaving his current role on 1 April (19), and instead will become an adviser at the company.

He will be succeeded by Dinesh Tandon, who is currently chief operating officer at Theory.

Speaking about the change in company line-up, Rosen told WWD: “I founded the company, and I think there’s a lot of strength with having a CEO who’s founded the company and has been around 22 years, and I also think a change in perspective for the company is not a bad thing. I think that for our company to move forward into the future, it’s obviously at some point in time going to have to change, and I think this is a good time for it to be happening.”

As for handing over the reins, Rosen is more than happy to be giving them to Tandon.

“I feel very comfortable about where our company is, and I feel very comfortable about Dinesh coming in, and I believe that Dinesh is going to do some amazing things. He’s different than me. This is going to be a real change for the company,” the entrepreneur added.

Tandon, 45, has been with Theory since 2013, when he joined the brand as CEO of the Greater China and Southeast Asia market, and was based in Hong Kong. He relocated to Theory’s headquarters in New York in 2017, where he was named COO.

To ensure a smooth transition amid Rosen’s departure, Tandon will work closely with the retail executive and Kazumi Yanai, chairman of Theory.

Bosses are yet to announce who will be stepping into Tandon’s former position of COO.

As for Rosen’s future plans, he insisted he will spend around half his time acting as an adviser at Theory, and the move shouldn’t be considered a retirement.

“This is not me retiring. This is me changing my perspective at Theory, and it will give me a new perspective on what I want to do personally and professionally,” he smiled.

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Brooks Brothers and Theory lead winners at 2018 ACE Awards

Brooks Brothers and Theory were winners at the Accessories Council Excellence (ACE) Awards on Monday night (11Jun18).Each year, officials from the U.S. Accessories Council pay homage to those individuals and groups that have made great strides in raisi…

Brooks Brothers and Theory were winners at the Accessories Council Excellence (ACE) Awards on Monday night (11Jun18).

Each year, officials from the U.S. Accessories Council pay homage to those individuals and groups that have made great strides in raising the awareness of the accessories industry, with the 2018 gala held at Cipriani 42nd Street in New York City.

Among the big brands to be honoured was Brooks Brothers, the men’s clothing business founded in 1818, which took home the American Heritage Award.

“Honoured to receive the American Heritage Award at the 2018 #ACEAwards,” owner Claudio Del Vecchio posted on the brand’s official Instagram page. “Being presented by our friend @caseycott was the icing on the cake. Thank you @accessoriescouncil and congratulations to all of the recipients tonight!”

While co-founder of contemporary fashion brand Theory, Andrew Rosen, was bestowed with the Business Leadership Award. Footwear company Allbirds won the Breakthrough Award, The Jewelry Group was awarded the prize for Business Excellence and Sam and Libby Edelman, founders and designers of Sam Edelman, were given the Legacy Award.

French accessories and leather goods label Longchamp won the Retail Influencer Award and rising streetwear company KITH was awarded the Retail Innovation Award.

Meanwhile, a number of celebrities were in attendance, including Lupita Nyong’o, who was on hand to support her stylist Micaela Erlanger as she was presented with the Style Influencer Award.

And Black-ish actress Tracee Ellis Ross was also feted with the Style Ambassador Award.

“ACE AWARDS – so grateful to receive the style ambassador award from the @accessoriescouncil,” she wrote alongside a snap of her posing in a sequinned Germanier dress, which she matched with a Tyler Ellis purse and jewellery from Lynn Ban.

The 2018 ACE Awards winners are as follows:

American Heritage Award – Brooks Brothers

Breakthrough Award – Allbirds

Business Excellence Award – The Jewelry Group

Business Leadership Award – Andrew Rosen, Theory

Hall of Fame Award – Sam and Libby Edelman

Legacy Award – Longchamp

Retail Influencer Award – KITH

Retail Innovation Award – Westfield

Specialty Retailer Award – STORY

Style Ambassador – Tracee Ellis Ross

Style Influencer Award – Micaela Erlanger

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Theory shake things up with new emotional focus

Theory is changing its focus by engaging in a more emotional relationship with its customers.The New York-based fashion label was created in 1997, and according to founder Andrew Rosen, the aim was to design versatile pieces to reflect the new, technol…

Theory is changing its focus by engaging in a more emotional relationship with its customers.

The New York-based fashion label was created in 1997, and according to founder Andrew Rosen, the aim was to design versatile pieces to reflect the new, technologically driven lifestyles in modern women.

However, in an interview with WWD, Rosen admitted that for too long the brand had focused on its own image rather than the need of the customer, but said things are set to change.

“I want to be always modernising what we’re doing. Staying and leading the customer and staying ahead of the customer and bringing in things she needs and wants,” he explained. “We don’t need to have a revolution, just a constant evolution. And you know, I feel that we needed fresh energy in the company design-wise, creatively.”

The company’s new outlook could be in part to do with the shake-up within its current team, as the pre-spring 2019 collection will be the first under new womenswear creative director Francesco Fucci, who was previously head designer at The Row for a five year tenure.

“(I) sought to return to the roots of the brand and create a new glossary of garments that could contribute to the evolution of what the Theory woman stands for today,” Fucci explained to British Vogue.

A photo taken from his anticipated debut collection shows a reinvention of Theory’s signature shirt, jacket and trouser combination, an echo of the brand’s original aesthetic when it was founded twenty years ago.

And though a degree of revitalisation is on the cards, Fucci insists that he won’t be engaging in anything too radical.

“I’m not a revolution person,” he smiled. “I come from a craftsmanship culture. My uncles were menswear tailors.”

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